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Demand grows for New York sparkling wines
New York’s Long Island and Finger Lakes regions offer some surprisingly affordable – and sustainable – sparkling wines.
Long Island and the Finger Lakes may differ in proximity, but not in philosophy as both lead the way in sustainable vineyard practices.
In terms of certifying bodiews, New York Sustainable Winegrowing (NYSW) offers third-party verified certification statewide, while Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing (LISW) offers the same to Long Island winegrowers specifically.
“Sparkling wines require a meticulous approach to vineyard management to ensure that grapes retain the right acidity and freshness,” explains Richard Olsen-Harbich of Bedell Cellars, founder of LISW.
“LISW guidelines emphasise soil health, pest management, and water use efficiency—key factors for the production of high-quality sparkling wine. Sustainable practices contribute to healthier, more resilient vines, helping sparkling wine producers achieve the desired balance of ripeness and acidity essential for this style of wine.”
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Established in 2012, LISW ranks as the East Coast’s earliest sustainability certification programme. Currently, 22 of Long Island’s 57 vineyards participate in the nonprofit scheme.
“Sustainability is the best path forward for eco-friendly winegrowing in our region, and LISW’s certification is uniquely tailored to address our local conditions, making it a highly effective approach,” says Olsen-Harbich, Long Island’s longest tenured winemaker.
“Unlike operations like the National Organic Program (NOP), which is primarily designed around West Coast conditions, and often proves problematic for East Coast growers, or the Demeter biodynamic (BD) programme, which lacks scientific validation, LISW focuses on research- driven practices that work specifically for us,” he says.
“LISW is not just a set of farming practices; it’s a philosophy that prioritises sustainability, ensuring that wineries and vineyards operate in harmony with the environment while respecting the needs of future generations,” underscores Gilles Martin, veteran bubble maker at Sparking Pointe Winery on North Fork.
Others members concur. “Being members of the Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing programme is not only a point of pride, but also a point of principle,” notes Leo Mora, winemaker for RG | NY.
“Sustainability, unlike other approaches, addresses not only environmental concerns but also the economic viability and social equity of our practices. It’s not a rigid set of rules, but a dynamic pathway for responsible winegrowing.”
Maritime Influence
East of the bright lights of New York City, Long Island splits into two forks (north and south), and three viticultural areas: The Hamptons, Long Island AVA on South Fork, North Fork of Long Island AVA, and Long Island AVA on the east end of Long Island.
Influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound, and Peconic Bay, the maritime region offers ample heat, sun, and well-draining soils.
North Fork’s Sparkling Pointe played an early part in sparkling wine production on Long Island.
“When I first arrived, only a few wineries were producing sparkling wines, but I’ve always been a strong advocate for expanding the méthode champenoise here,” says head winemaker Gilles Martin, who made his mark at California’s Roederer Estate before joining Sparkling Pointe in 2004.
“With the creation of Sparkling Pointe, and the investment in specialised equipment for this process, we’ve seen a noticeable increase in the number of wineries producing sparkling wines,” he says. “Today, Sparkling Pointe collaborates with many growing wineries, supporting them on their journey to mastering the méthode champenoise.”
Traditional method
“Traditional method bubbly has a home on Long Island, owing to the prevailing cool, maritime climate,” confirms winemaker Kareem Massoud of North Fork’s Paumanok Vineyard. “This allows us to harvest our crop at the desired sugar, pH, and acid levels, giving the wines a freshness and balance that marries beautifully with the seafood on our shores.”
Massoud’s parents founded the family winery in 1983, later also acquiring and operating nearby Palmer Vineyard.
“As my father says,” laughs Massoud, “”We make island wines!””
“Our maritime influenced climate gives us a unique advantage,” concurs Roman Roth, longtime winemaker/partner at South Fork’s Wölffer Estate. “The moderating sea breeze provides us with vibrancy and elegance, and our amazing sun influence, due to the fact that we are on the same latitude as Madrid, ensures wonderful ripeness and intensity. This winning combination is very unique, and gives us a great edge.”
Big apple
For others, proximity to the Big Apple proves crucial.
“When the family decided to expand their viticultural enterprise outside of Parras, Coahuila, Mexico, they were looking for a region that, like Parras, was not widely known or regarded throughout the world,” says Mora.
“You could say they were looking for an underdog region,” he continues. “Maria, CEO and part of the founding family, recognised the North Fork of Long Island AVA as a quality growing region from her first visit. Being so close to New York City, one of the most exciting wine markets in the world, sealed the deal.”
Finger Lakes legacy
West of the Big Apple, Finger Lakes AVA comprises a series of deep, narrow glacial-formed lakes in Upstate New York. The region’s major lakes include Cayuga Lake, Canandaigua Lake, Keuka Lake, and Seneca Lake.
In the 1950’s, viticulturist Dr Konstantin Frank emigrated to Keuka Lake from Eastern Europe. Drawn to the area’s cold climate, steep slopes and meagre soils, Frank introduced European vinifera varieties there, including Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.
Forty years later, son Willy Frank followed in his father’s pioneering footsteps.
“We have a long history in the Finger Lakes, going back 200 years, of producing sparkling wines, but this history prior to 1985 was using the native varieties, and also French-American hybrids,” says fourth-generation Meaghan Frank, vice president of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery.
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“My grandfather, Willy Frank, dreamed of producing traditional method sparkling wine utilising vinifera varieties,” she says. “He wanted to build upon his father’s legacy, and take it one step further.”
Climate challenges
Despite favourable conditions, climate presents a few challenges in both regions.
“The two largest impediments to wine production in New York are moisture and cold,” says Justin Jackson, program manager for New York Sustainable Winegrowing.
“Growing sustainably on the East Coast presents unique challenges compared to the West Coast, where climate conditions are more consistent and predictable,” confirms Olsen-Harbich. “Here on Long Island, we face cold winters, snowfall, regular precipitation, coastal winds, high humidity, and an array of grape varieties—the most diverse in the country.”
Excessive moisture increases disease pressures. “Excessive moisture, while often eliminating the need to irrigate, leads to higher disease pressure on grapes, necessitating the use of fungicides on Vinifera cultivars, or the cultivation of native and hybrid vines,” explains Jackson.
Conversely, extreme cold, such as during 2023, impacts vine health.
“While one would think that climatic warming would reduce the risk of winter damage, it actually increases it,” says Jackson. “Average warmer temperatures reduce grapevines’ cold hardiness, making them less resistant to hard freezes and encouraging them to bud out before the last frost date exposing tender shoots and clusters to the harsh winter conditions.”
“Climate change has significantly impacted our vineyard practices, especially in how we pick grapes for our sparkling wine program,” admits Martin. “We’ve seen a shift in rainfall patterns—where we once experienced around 10 inches of rain early in the season, we now see closer to four inches, with harder downpours later in the summer, which affects our picking dates”
“While our core practices and varieties haven’t changed much, we continue to adapt, balancing acidity and sugar levels to ensure optimal quality,” he adds. “On Long Island, the issue isn’t necessarily less rainfall overall, but less consistent rainfall, with heavier downpours influencing grape growth.”
Bright and delicious
Clearly, something’s working. “The demand for Long Island sparkling wine has grown a lot,” admits Roth. “We used to make 300 cases a year, but now we are at 1,300 cases a year.”
Pricing also contributes to the success of Long Island and Finger Lakes sparklers, as most range between US$24.99- $65.
“I firmly believe that Finger Lakes sparkling wines are some of the best in the world, and have yet to truly be discovered,” says winemaker Craig Hosbach of Fox Run Vineyards, “There’s something special happening in our region that transcends far beyond sparkling, but if you’re new to our area then we believe it’s a good place to start.”
“The producers of sparkling wine on Long Island understand the traditional method of making sparkling wine very well,” concludes Mora. “We also know that not being considered a traditional region for sparkling wine in no way limits our ability to grow high quality grapes and produce world-class sparkling wines. We hope the people who try sparkling wines from Long Island agree with that sentiment. The future of Long Island sparkling wines is bright and delicious.”
Sustainable New York sparkling wines to try:
Finger Lakes:
Konstantin Frank 2020 Brut Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Wine$29.99 US
Konstantin Frank Célèbre NV Riesling Crémant $24.99 US
Fox Run Vineyards 2019 Blanc de Blanc100% Chardonnay $35 US
Long Island:
Sparkling Pointe 2019 Brut US$31
Sparkling Pointe 2017 Cuvée Cynthia Blanc de Noirs US$68
Paumanok 2017 Chenin Blanc de Chenin US$65
Palmer Vineyards NV Sparkling Brut Special Reserve US$55
RGNY NV White Sparkling Chardonnay Blend US$41
NW Wölffer Estate 2020 Rose Noblesse Oblige US$40
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