Unfiltered: Francesco Gabriele

The wine director for Iconic Hotels, including Chewton Glen, talks to Douglas Blyde about his family’s ties with one of Italy’s most famous wine producers, the enduring soul of Gérard Basset, and the pleasure of late night snacking…

What is your vintage?

I was born in Rome in 1968. I am an accountant by training though my sincere passion for hospitality started when I was a boy.

Does wine run in the family?

My mum’s family produce the remarkable Capichera Vermentinos, which sparked my love of wine. And wine has always been part of my life as a daily table staple. The three years I spent studying to become a professional sommelier with the Italian Sommelier Association gave me a deeper and more technical knowledge of the wine world.

Where did you work before?

I was head sommelier at Tylney Hall Hotel. I now look after the wine programmes for Cliveden House, The Lygon Arms, 11 Cadogan Gardens, The Mayfair Townhouse, and Chewton Glen, which are part of the Iconic Luxury Hotels collection.

What is your ethos in relation to the list at The Dining Room at Chewton Glen?

I focus on originality and seek to express what is behind the label, hence the importance of understanding the producer and winemaker. My sommeliers are all involved in the sourcing process.

How many wine references are there?

1,300 after an intense job to reduce the list from 1,966, mainly driven by lockdowns and pandemic-related uncertainty.

What are your most seductive pours available via Coravin?

Château Lafleur and Solaia.

Is the list available throughout the guest bedrooms including the treehouses?

Correct.

Where are wines stored?

They are showcased in beautiful fridges in the main restaurant and in the main cellar.

What is a standout wine pairing with a dish by head chef, Luke Matthews?

The Chewton Glen twice-baked Emmental soufflé excites both guests and somms and gives many opportunities for pairings. My current personal favourite is Bsixtwelve Pinot Blanc produced in Hampshire by the superb Balbina Leeming. The dish is at once fluffy, creamy, rich and gentle. This fresh, sumptuous wine elevates all the flavours.

What does chef enjoy drinking?

Coffee, as well as light, fresh whites and rich reds.

What music is played in The Dining Room?

Jazz and blues.

Which tables are the best in the house?

The ones overlooking our beautiful gardens provide the full Chewton experience.

What else makes the room feel special?

I feel that the soul of former head sommelier, Gerard Basset is still palpable here.

Do you think a vineyard will ever be planted in the grounds?

It has been in my head for a long time.

What is a misconception guests have of sommeliers?

That we engage with guests to sell them more expensive wines.

What are the last books that you read?

“Compassionate Leadership” by Manley Hopkinson, and “Côte de Nuits – Inside Burgundy” by Jasper Morris MW.

And film?

I love almost everything starring Denzel Washington.

Where do you dine on your days off?

At home normally given I am the very lucky father of a professional chef; Kai, Mayfair was also lovely recently.

What is your motto?

“Carpe Diem”.

What grape don’t you get along with?

Pinotage.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I often wake up at night for a sweet snack which allows me a moment for myself.

Finally, what do you look for when recruiting new sommeliers?

A positive mindset, generosity and passion.

Chewton Glen – Christchurch Road, New Forest, Hampshire, England, BH25 6QS; 01425 275341; reservations@chewtonglen.com; chewtonglen.com