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Wine List Confidential: Cabotte
Cabotte is a treasure trove of beautiful Burgundian classics with a list that is bold, confident and unashamedly focused, but with depth and range.
Founded by Master Sommeliers Xavier Rousset and Gearoid Devaney, Cabotte is a showcase of the pair’s passion for Burgundy (several of its partners are Burgundian winemakers) and is named after the small huts that winegrowers have within their vineyards.
True to its unswerving theme, Cabotte’s wine list is made up almost exclusively of Burgundian classics, alongside interesting rarities, and is divided by region and then classification – offering helpful guidance for the uninitiated as well as those well versed in Burgundy. Its 24-page list covers every inch of the region, sweeping from Chablis to the Mâconnaise, offering a good range of vintages – albeit only a handful from the 20th century – from villages to grand cru vineyards.
On the sparkling side, its Champagne list offers a diverse array of grand marques and grower Champagnes, from Dom Pérignon and Bollinger to A.R Lenoble and De Sousa, along with one English sparkling wine from Gusbourne, a nice touch in an otherwise wholly French list.
The rest of the world is not totally ignored, with a few pages dedicated to wines from regions in France other than Burgundy, Spain and Italy, with sparse listings from New World producers.
This is an unashamedly Francophile wine list, and it works.
CURRENT POSITION ON WINE LIST CONFIDENTIAL: 51
CURRENT WINE LIST CONFIDENTIAL OVERALL SCORE: 91.2
Expert wine picks
• Albert Bichot, Pure, Crémant de Bourgogne – France – Sparkling – £39
• Domaine Michel Lafarge, Les Aigrots, 2010 1er Cru, Beaune – France – White – £115
• McHenry Hohnen, 2012, Burnside Vineyard, Margaret River – Australia – White – £49
• Domaine Taupenot-Merme, 1998, Charmes Chambertin, Côte de Beaune – France – Red – £300
• Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello, 1992, Santa Cruz Mountains – USA – Red – £400
• Terrantez ‘Frasqueira’, 1977, D’Oliveiras, Madeira – Portugal – Fortified – £160
Wine List Confidential, brought to you by the drinks business, is the first platform to rank London’s restaurants on the strength of their wine list alone, providing a comprehensive guide to the best restaurants in the capital for wine lovers.
Restaurants are graded on a 100-point scale based on five criteria: size, value, service, range and originality. For a full guide to London’s best wine lists visit winelistconfidential.com