London’s new wave wine bars

The Remedy

The Remedy’s 15 wines by the glass, which change daily in order to keep things fresh, are chalked on a blackboard and rubbed out when they get to the dregs. A large proportion of the bar’s 130-bin stock is sourced from organic- and biodynamic-focused importers such as Les Caves de Pyrène and Aubert & Mascoli.

A “Cellar” list at the back of the menu, meanwhile, offers a selection of stellar old vintages at indecently reasonable mark-ups, such as 1973 Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja from Bodegas Riojanas at £60 a bottle.

“We want to make wine fun and accessible, hence our icon list offering great vintage wines at crazy prices,” says Clawson, adding, “A lot of our regulars order exclusively off that list.” Split into sections running the gamut from “cleanse” and “quench” to “nourish” and “feed”, among some of the better-known names on the main list are Lebanon’s Château Musar, Rioja stalwart López de Heredia, Bierzo pioneer Descendientes de J. Palacios and Craig Hawkins’ Swartland project Testalonga.

After a glowing review from Time Out that flagged up its orange wine offering, the bar has unintentionally gained a reputation for extra-skin-contact wines. “We have people coming in specifically seeking out our orange wines, which is amusing as we never set out to be an orange wine specialist. Now we’re keen to add to our orange wine line-up to keep our customers happy,” says Clawson. All food is sourced from small producers, and the decadent lardo grissini with mushroom cream has already become a signature dish.

Also on the menu is burrata, monkfish cheeks, field mushrooms on toast, Maldon oysters, cured meats and cheeses. In a bid to lure wine lovers to the sleepier side of Fitzrovia during the weekend, there are plans for winemaker dinners and tutored tastings on Saturdays.

“A decade ago, London’s wine bar scene was a wasteland, but it has changed beyond recognition over the last five years,” says Clawson, who “hates” the idea of being seen as hip due to the term’s transitory nature. “As they do with food, people care about what they are drinking now and where it comes from. Wine may be having a moment in London, but it’s part of a greater provenance trend that won’t be reversed,” he predicts.

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