Tasting Pol Roger Champagne from ‘truly remarkable vintage’
Champagne Pol Roger has unveiled its latest vintage expression from the exceptional 2019 harvest, and Patrick Schmitt MW gives his verdict.
Described by fifth-generation family member Hubert de Billy “as a truly remarkable vintage year”, 2019 is widely held to be one of the greatest, if not the best harvest of the last decade, even though it was far from easy to manage in the vineyard.
Indeed, the vintage suffered from frost in April, and mildew, then August hailstorms, with heatwaves during the summer, all of which ensured that yields were almost 20% down on the average in the region.
However, ideal harvesting conditions, with warm days and cool nights, allowed growers to pick the grapes at optimum ripeness, yielding wines with “rare harmony”, according to Pol Roger, noting their “freshness, aromatic richness and exceptional fruit health.”
As db has previously noted, it is also a year promising magnificent ageing potential.
Vintage Champagne specialist
Pol Roger’s release is of particular importance, as the house is a vintage Champagne specialist, with 15-20% of the maison’s annual production being from a single harvest, compared to around 5% for the appellation as a whole.
It’s also a special year for the house, as it marks the first vintage made solely by cellar master Damien Cambres, who took over from longstanding former chef de caves Dominique Petit, who retired in April 2018.
Commenting on the latest vintage release from Pol Roger, Cambres said that the 2019 Champagne was “dominated by yellow fruits”, from pineapple to lemon and peach, “complemented by hazelnut”, while noting red plum too.
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Pol Roger pointed out that the 2019 had an especially high average potential alcohol level of 10.7%, surpassing 10.2% that was achieved in the previous vintage – the much-celebrated 2018.
Commenting on the figure for 2019, the house said that it reflected “the power of this exceptional vintage.”
‘No brainer for Pol fans’
Pol Roger’s 2019 is produced entirely from premier and grand cru vineyards from across the Montagne de Reims, the Grande Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs, and contains a blend of 63.5% Pinot Noir and 36.5% Chardonnay – with a little more Pinot Noir than the usual 60%.
It has been aged for six years in Pol Roger’s cellars, which are located 33m below ground, and has been riddled by hand – in line with Pol Roger’s approach to all its Champagnes.
As for the price, UK wine merchant Justerini & Brooks described it as “a relative bargain next to its peers and, at at £365 per 6 IB, it is 10% cheaper than the 2018.”
Summing up, the retailer noted, “This should be a no brainer buy for Pol fans.”
db has had a first taste, and you can see our thoughts below, although, it should be stressed, this was not a blind tasting as part of the title’s tasting programme: The Global Wine Masters.
Tasted: Champagne Pol Roger 2019
Initial aromatics are delicate, with some youthful citric notes, followed by red apple and baked bread. But the wine opens when sipped, with a lovely combination of creaminess and freshness, featuring ripe fruit and zestiness too, along with persistent fine bubbles. Flavours abound, from red berry to juicy lemon, then plums and pineapple, along with a touch of brioche and hazelnut. The finish is lingering and mouth-watering, but not hard – a well-judged dosage of 7g/l providing a balance to the crisper elements in this complex Champagne. A pleasure to drink now, but an expression that will undoubtedly reward cellaring, with flavours of toasted nuts and roasted coffee expected to emerge over the next 3-5 years. (Patrick Schmitt, July 2026)
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