Chef Q&A: Sarah Hayward
The head chef at The Hand and Flowers in Marlow discusses Michelin stars, working with Tom Kerridge and ‘pinch me’ moments, with Amelie Maurice-Jones.
When did you first know you wanted to become a chef?
I always wanted to be a chef. I think watching my dad growing up – he is still one of the most passionate chefs I know – somehow rubbed off on me. I did work experience at the pub that my dad worked in when I was at school and that seemed to spur me on even more. When it came to finishing school, I ended up doing a year of sixth form as I didn’t want to attend the local college. Then, during that year, my mum showed me an apprenticeship had become available at a prestigious hotel on the Isle of Wight, and I jumped at the opportunity. I’ve never looked back since.
What lesson did your dad teach you that still influences your cooking today?
My dad has always been a super-calm and composed chef. That is the biggest trait that I picked up from him. I remember him always telling me to respect the people around me: the suppliers, the engineers, co-workers, everyone. This is something that I try to teach the young chefs going through my kitchen.
Last year you became head chef at The Hand and Flowers. How’s it going?
It’s going in the right direction. Taking on a role like this takes time to implement changes and see them take effect; it is only now that we are starting to see that happen. We’re in a much stronger place and the team is settling into the new era of The Hand and Flowers. What’s the biggest challenge moving from one Michelin star to two? There have been many challenges along the way. The standard [of food] from one star to two stars is a much bigger jump than some can imagine. Tom Kerridge has a very heavy influence on the menu at The Hand and Flowers – nothing reaches the menu until it is tried, tested and approved by him.
Describe how it felt to win Michelin’s Young Chef award in 2023.
It still feels like a ‘pinch me’ moment. To be recognised personally by one of the most prestigious and globally recognised guides in this industry just completely blows my mind. I’m not sure I’ll ever get over it. It’s a career highlight that I will never forget. I’m incredibly proud and grateful to have achieved it.
Partner Content
In 2015, you landed your first job at The Hand and Flowers. Is there any advice you’d give to that girl stepping into a kitchen for the first time?
Just to keep doing what you’re doing. It will be tough, but the journey is going to be worth it. Take every opportunity that is presented to you, step out of your comfort zone and just keep working hard.
You once said Tom Kerridge ‘makes you do things that are out of your comfort zone, but it’s all for the greater good’. Can you give an example?
I wouldn’t say chef Tom ‘makes’ you do anything. What he does is present you with opportunities that you may not feel ready for but, in order to grow, you have to dive right in. Never would I have thought I was ready to take on The Bull and Bear as my first head chef role. I’d only been sous-chef for a matter of months, and it was a big operation. He gave me that opportunity, allowed me to make mistakes and guided me through it. Without that, I wouldn’t have landed the head chef role at The Coach. The Coach has an incredible open kitchen, which really allows you to have a relationship with guests. This was the first time I’d ever done anything like that, and they have so many regulars. From there I built so many friendships with customers, and had full creative freedom over the menu. That is what got me recognised for the Young Chef award by Michelin.
How have you seen English wine develop in the last decade?
Vineyards, production and sales all seem to have shifted as the consumer interest has peaked. Many would argue that English sparkling is a strong competitor to Champagne.
What can a gastropub do that a fine dining restaurant can’t?
A gastropub offers a super-relaxed environment and showcases simplistic food elevated to a high standard. Fine dining restaurants tend to have a slightly stuffy reputation, although this is not always the case. There is a very fine line between high-end fine dining restaurants and gastropubs, with the style of food and service being the main difference.
Related news
Nyetimber appoints Steven Edwards as executive chef
Chef Dave Pynt to sit at the helm of People People Brewing Co
