Chef Q&A: Ella Williams

The head chef at London bakery, bistro and wine bar No. Forty Nine discusses working with her father and learning from great chefs.

You opened in St John’s Wood in early June. How’s it going?

Hectic, but enjoyable! There’s never a dull moment and I love that about the job.

What’s surprised you most about stepping into the role of head chef?

Not much, to be honest. Maybe answering questions like this. I didn’t expect to have to do it, but it’s weirdly cathartic.

Pick a dish from the menu, and the wine you’d pair it with.

Probably the red cabbage salad. I’d pair it with our orange wine. There’s a nice balance of sweetness and acidity in the dish that pairs well with the sweetness and subtle sharpness from the orange wine. There’s also a slight earthiness from both the wine and the black lime in the salad that I love together.

What’s been the most heart-warming moment from the last month?

Definitely having my dad with me in the kitchen on the opening day and for the opening dinner service. He’s retired now, but was a chef for 35 years. It’s a privilege to be able to work with him and spend time together doing something we both love.

Sum up your cooking philosophy in three words.

Fresh is best.

What’s the best restaurant in London at the moment and why?

That’s a very hard question. I rarely have time to eat out these days, but if I do I’d probably just go to my local Italian, Buona Sera on Northcote Road. I’ve been eating there since I was four. It’s the most consistent restaurant I know and there’s no frills. It’s tasty and the service is great. Shout-out Luigi!

When did you first develop such a passion for food, and when did you first decide you wanted to become a chef?

Honestly, when I was two years old. On my second birthday, to be precise. It doubled up as my aunty’s wedding day; the food at the reception was catered by my dad’s chef friend Omar. I found a packet of Juicy Fruit chewing gum on the floor, ate it and that was that. I can’t quite explain the sensation. It was my first conscious memory, which makes sense considering my current profession. I was cooking for around six years before I decided I wanted to do it properly. I started at 15 and worked a mix of weekends, part-time and full-time between school and university. When I graduated, I had to decide whether I was going to use my degree and start working in the film industry, or if I was going to continue cooking. I had a chat with a close friend of mine, Sara, who wisely advised me to do whichever one came most naturally to me. The answer was cooking – and that was that.

What advice do you have for young people wanting to enter a career in cooking?

Understand that even after cooking for 10, 20 or 30 years, you’ll always be more ignorant than you are knowledgeable, but don’t see that as a bad thing. It’s my favourite aspect of this job, actually. There’s always more to learn and discover. Also make sure you learn from great chefs. That doesn’t just mean they’re technically gifted, but great with people too.

What’s a current food trend that needs to die?

Hmmmm. I don’t know – I don’t have a big opinion on those kinds of things. Each to their own and all that.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

I’m not really one for thinking about the future too much any more. It’s far too anxiety-inducing.

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