12 observations about Champagne style and quality today

Having chaired the UK’s most comprehensive, annual, blind tasting competition for just Champagne – The Champagne Masters – since 2011, Patrick Schmitt MW picks out 12 observations about the character of the sparkling wine right now.

This year’s Champagne Masters marked our 15^th tasting, and was, as is customary, extensive and comprehensive, featuring all the key styles, the vast majority of major producers, a broad array of price points, and a range of grape varieties, including products made from the ancient grapes of the region, such as Arbane.

And, considering the nature of the Champagnes assessed in recent competitions, the 2026 one included, relative to older tastings, one can draw certain conclusions about the style and quality of the product today, as well as the changes that have occurred.

It’s these that I have summed up below, focusing on what I believe are the biggest stylistic developments in Champagne over the last few years, as well as what appears to work best in winemaking terms at the moment.

In short, apart from one minor drawback – which relates to packaging, not winemaking – the caseload of observations below explains why, in my view, Champagne is better than ever, and, when made well, remains the pre-eminent sparkling wine.

Low-dosage balance improved

Very low- or zero-dosage Champagnes are now more balanced, retaining texture and drinkability without harshness or oxidation. This means that opting for low-sugar Champagne need not come at the expense of drinking pleasure.

Riper fruit profile

A shift has occurred from green apple/citrus to riper notes like peach and pineapple, driven by climate change and improved viticulture. Meanwhile, unripe vegetal characters in Champagne are – thankfully – a thing of the past.

Greater richness and depth

Lower yields, longer lees ageing, extended post-disgorgement rest and increased use of reserve wines enhance depth and complexity, and allow for lower dosage. A slowdown in Champagne demand is further encouraging this development.

Malolactic fermentation matters

Blocking malo can result in hard, citric wines; allowing it boosts complexity, while adding creaminess and better supporting low-dosage styles. (Having said that, non-malo firmness can be offset by standard dosages, longer maturation periods or reducing bottle pressure to create finer bubbles and a creamier mouthfeel)

Return to oak usage

Oak fermentation/ageing (especially for reserve wines) adds roundness, subtle tannin and complexity. And, smaller barrels and newer oak staves can be employed to craft richer styles more suitable to serving with food.

Blending more complex

Greater use and diversity of reserve wines is increasing depth and consistency in non-vintage cuvées. This is further helped by the wider use of a réserve perpétuelle – which mixes older reserve wines with new harvests in the same vessel.

Hot vintages proving age-worthy

Ripe years (eg 2003, 2015, 2018) can produce structured, long-lived, high-quality Champagnes. Despite concerns that heat-wave harvests might yield fast-maturing wines, the region is crafting ripe Champagnes that are palatable in relative youth, and yet still age well.

Light-strike remains a risk

Clear glass bottles can lead to sulphurous, “cabbage-like” faults, especially in delicate styles like blanc de blancs. It may look striking to house a fine Champagne in a transparent bottle, but it comes with a risk – unless you make sure there’s a protective outer layer, be it a box, or cellophane with a UV barrier.

Rosé Champagne improving

Quality has increased significantly, due to better viticulture and winemaking for red grapes destined to make still wine for blending. However, colour varies widely and is not a reliable indicator of quality or style – unlike still wines, where a paler appearance is generally a signifier of both.

Blanc de noirs on the rise

Increasingly refined, combining freshness with richer apple fruit and toasty complexity. In other words, Champagne without any Chardonnay can be complete, if still different.

Blanc de blancs consistency

Remains a reliable aperitif style, with better balance and fewer overly buttery examples. No wonder it’s so popular – and becoming pricy, especially when sourced from the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs.

More phenolic texture

Subtle tannins and chalky grip are becoming more common, enhancing structure and food-pairing versatility. Helped by riper grapes, phenolics in Champagne are bringing a pleasant, delicate bitterness, that may be compensating for a softer acidity in the sparking wine today.

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