What makes a great site for Trentino Pinot Grigio?
Even in Italy, Pinot Grigio is far from homogenous. In the best sites of Trentino, producers like Mezzacorona are showing how the variety can match easy-drinking charm with “elegant sapidity”.
Will you make a rich, spiced style in the Alsatian mould? Perhaps a crisp, light option for summer sipping, as is popular in Italy? Or perhaps you’d take inspiration from the ripe, fruit-forward wines growing their reputation in Oregon?
When a winemaker turns their hand to Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris, Grauburgunder, Fromenteau etc.), there is no single way to make it. They must decide the profile they will adopt. Even in Italy, the grape’s production powerhouse, there is immense variety.
“Pinot Grigio is a highly versatile cultivar capable of producing a wide range of styles, from fresh, ready-to-drink wines to be consumed within the vintage, to prestigious age-worthy and Riserva wines,” explains Andrea Martinelli, winemaker at Mezzacorona.
“However, the most famous style associated with Pinot Grigio is the fresh, easy-drinking one, characterized by lovely aromas of pear, peach, and yellow fruit, balanced by a pleasant acidity and sapidity.”
Easy-drinking is a noble aim, but one that should not be confused with simplicity. Creating something that is characterful and bright without losing its immediate likeability is a challenge. It is in meeting that task that Mezzacorona’s expertise and its unique Trentino terroirs come into their own.
Alpine influence
Within Trentino, growers and winemakers have discovered that certain sites express Pinot Grigio best. In particular, they need to protect the bunches from disease and strike the balance between concentration and freshness.
“Within Trentino, the Adige Valley is among the most prestigious sites for Pinot Grigio,” explains Martinelli. “Its well-ventilated microclimate is essential for maintaining healthy bunches and preventing rot.”
Rot is, obviously, a concern for any producer, but it is particularly the case when making Pinot Grigio. Its bunches are prone to botrytis, which can hit both quality and yields. You cannot make fine wine (sweet outliers excepted) with mouldy grapes.
To then secure high quality at Mezzacorona, it is the Alpine character of Trentino that comes to the fore. The wines are truly born of these mountains.
The geology – alluvial sediments from the river, but influenced by the mountains above – is key. It provides free-draining soils rich in minerals, offering the vines water and nutrients without promoting excessive growth.
“Furthermore,” Martinelli explains, “the significant temperature swings between day and night are the key to maintaining the acidity and sapidity that define our wines.”
That is a truly Alpine phenomenon. The daytime temperature can rise significantly, as heat accumulates on the valley floor and the mountains shelter the region from cold northerly winds. However, cold air descends the slopes overnight, dramatically cooling the vineyards.
That climatic to-and-fro means that the grapes can develop their profile of ripe fruit during the day, but retain the characteristic acidity thanks to the nighttime dip.
It is unsurprising, therefore, that Martinelli believes the best sites are at the north of the region, further into the valley.
“Within the Adige Valley, the vineyard sites north of Mezzocorona represent the premier terroir for our premium Pinot Grigio selections from,” he comments.
Protecting its heritage
Mezzacorona takes its role in Trentino seriously, as a custodian of lands that have grown vines for thousands of years. It is not just the sites, however: traditions and reputations are equally important to protect, and present contemporary challenges.
Trentino has, for instance, a distinctive method of training its vines: the pergola method.
“Because the pergola is worked entirely by hand, it allows us to uphold our high qualitative standards for selection and harvesting,” says Martinelli. “Furthermore, the pergola shades the grapes from direct sun, preserving their aromatic profile and preventing sunburn.”
Such quality control is a great asset. The system, however, presents a challenge, as it is so labour intensive. With labour shortages a common complaint in agricultural areas, Mezzacorona has to find ways to make a Trentino tradition work in its vineyards.
He also sees a particular challenge in maintaining the region’s reputation for quality. The market for Italian Pinot Grigio has boomed in recent years, and so continuing that success sustainably is at the front of Mezzacorona’s mind. The difficulty is compounded by a tough outlook for winemakers around the world.
This is why Mezzacorona is keen to emphasise the diversity and potential of Pinot Grigio. Its Castel Firmian range, for instance, includes both a Pinot Grigio and a Pinot Grigio Riserva.
The former foregrounds the delicate fruit profile of the grapes, with just a little cold maceration on the skins to add structure. The latter crafts a subtly different profile: the grapes have a riper fruit profile, onto which Martinelli and his team layer elegant vanilla notes through oak ageing.
With wines to showcase the grape’s nuances, Martinelli hopes that Italian Pinot Grigio can maintain its position as an international benchmark. “Pinot Grigio is intrinsically linked to Italy and has become a synonym for wine quality,” he says. “This is why it is essential to protect both its name and its quality.
“For over 30 years, this wine has successfully maintained its leading position on the global stage,” he concludes. “I hope it remains a driving force even in this challenging global scenario.”
Related news
What’s driving the surge in fine white wine trading?
I was able to try several Trentino pinot grigio bottlings a few years ago while on holiday at Lake Garda, and they changed my overall impression of the grape. They are difficult to find here in the U.S., as shops favor the Venezie bottlings that already have a secure market following. I will be keeping my eyes open for anything from Mezzacorona.
[machine translation]
Qualche anno fa, mentre ero in vacanza sul Lago di Garda, ho avuto modo di assaggiare diverse etichette di Pinot Grigio trentino, e queste hanno cambiato la mia impressione generale su questo vitigno. Qui negli Stati Uniti sono difficili da reperire, poiché i negozi privilegiano le etichette provenienti dalle Venezie, che godono già di un solido seguito di mercato. Terrò gli occhi aperti per qualsiasi prodotto firmato Mezzacorona.