Justerini & Brooks: Asian collectors no longer ‘satisfied with just the label’
Joyce Yip gets the lowdown on Justerini & Brooks’ wine collection as the century-old wine merchant celebrates 50 years in Asia.
In early May, a crowd of 50 gathered at The Peninsula Hong Kong, the very location wine and spirits merchant Justerini & Brooks (J&B) hosted its first tasting 50 years ago – on March 8, 1976.
Guests enjoyed remarkable vintages like 2015 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château Monopole, Chateau Lafleur 2012 and Talisker 46-Year-Old Prima & Ultima Fourth Release 1976.
Beyond a worthy milestone, Hong Kong was J&B’s first international office, opened in 2012. Today, the 275-year-old company has grown beyond private sales to cellar management and multi-generational advisory.
Distinction, quality and discovery
Giles Burke-Gaffney, J&B’s fine wine director, says his customers’ appetite for discovery has catapulted since the merchant first landed in the region.
He says: “Traditionally, our customers in Asia have heavily focused on the established ‘iconic’ names, but the modern collector has become more curious.
“They’ve built their collections by seeking distinction, quality and discovering interesting fine wines.
“They are not satisfied with just the label; they want to know the story behind the vineyard and distilleries. They want to understand the fine wine and rare whisky making philosophies and the history of where they are buying these bottles from.”
Partner Content
French bottles still come out top
Bo Heung, J&B’s private client director in Asia, agrees, adding that the shift is especially evident amongst younger collectors and buyers, who have a penchant for “interesting bottles shared with friends over a meal [and] a growing focus on food-and-wine pairing”.
Still, France’s age-worthiness and consistency reigns king amongst collectors.
Burke-Gaffney advises beginners to start their collection comprising mostly Bordeaux and Burgundy wines, with selections from Champagne, Italy and “probably some from California and then a spread of great artisan fine wines from everywhere else”. He adds that while critics’ scores are helpful benchmarks, tasting and “building up an idea of your own preferences” should take priority.
Top tips for building a cellar
Heung, too, advocates for such diversity, whether in region or curating wines for both ageing and consumption.
“[Your wine collection] is a living portfolio that needs regular review, tasting and sharing to ensure it continues to reflect the collector’s passion,” she says.
“Don’t be a label drinker. Build a ‘drinking cellar’ of wines at their peak, from your favourite producers and regions. Then you have a combination of bottles for a business dinner or a casual weekend dinner. For future generations, buy the icons, but buy them with provenance and patience.”
Related news
Vinexpo Hong Kong holds steady as appetite for Asian markets grows
#WeekInPictures: Kylie Minogue hits 27 million bottles as Poco Vino rolls into Hong Kong
