From booming Chablis sales in Brazil to Italian law changes on dealcoholisation, this year’s ProWein was a hotbed of discussion. Sarah Neish and Sophie Arundel report on the topics getting the trade fired up.
Speaking at a ceremony held at ProWein on Monday night to announce this year’s winner of the prestigious Winemaker’s Winemaker award, the fair’s executive director Michael Degen reminded the trade that “For 32 years ProWein has been a global meeting place for the wine industry; a place to shape, create and elevate” and “a greenhouse of optimism”.
This year was no exception, where despite reports of lighter footfall, the Düsseldorf fair generated agenda-setting conversations. After three days of exploring the halls (fuelled by currywurst and Africola), db sums up some of the biggest talking points from the fair.
The door is about to open for dealcoholised Italian wines
The hub of Italian producers in Hall 3 was alight with the news expected to break any minute that the Italian government, who approved a decree to lift the ban on making dealcoholised wines in Italy in late 2025, will officially begin sanctioning domestic production. Until now, Italian producers have had to invest significant time and cost into shipping wines outside the country to nations such as Germany and Belgium to have them dealcoholised. “It’s not only a matter of money but also of environment and sustainability,” Aurora Semenzin, communications manager for Valdo Spumanti, told db.
“We have to transport the wines for many miles,” she added, causing the company’s carbon footprint to creep up.
Several producers told the drinks business that they already have products waiting in the wings, ready to push the button when the prohibition ends, which according to Villa Sandi CEO Giancarlo Moretti Polegato could be as soon as this month. As demand for no and low alcohol products continues to rise (the US alcohol-free drinks market alone surpassed $1billion in 2025 per NielsenIQ data), this is welcome news indeed for Italian winemakers.
Brazil is a market to focus on
A talk on emerging markets revealed that Brazil represents enormous growth potential for winemakers around the world. Imported wine sales in Brazil were up 6.3% in value and 3.7% in volume between 2024 and 2025, having more than doubled in the last 10 years. According to Christian Borgos, co-director of ProWine Sao Paulo, “our projection is that this will double again in the next 10 years…maybe sooner.”
Currently, red wine exports to Brazil represent the highest market share with 71% compared to 22% whites and 7% rosé. However, Burgos pointed out that “whites are gaining more and more market share” and Chablis from Burgundy is doing especially well. He cautioned against sending sparkling wines to Brazil, explaining that domestically the nation is already “very competitive in this .”
Despite the market’s potential, Burgos warned global wine producers not to look at Brazil “like a winning lottery ticket.”
“There is a huge expectation that Brazil is going to solve the problems of everyone,” he said, stressing that “we are only part of the solution”. He urged wine companies to “think long-term” with regards to the market and to “look at the financial health of your Brazilian importer. This is very, very important.”
Serving fizz by the glass offers better margins
A bottle of sparkling wine, whether Champagne, Crémant, Prosecco or Cava, tends to have a 200%-300% mark-up in a restaurant, ProWein guests learned at a masterclass hosted by Patrick Schmitt MW. In short, it can be an expensive gamble if you haven’t tried a particular wine before. But ordering fizz by the glass is a “risk-free way for people to try new or different sparkling wines” and has better margins for the restaurant than bottle sales.
“As a restaurateur you should be charging 80% to 100% of the whole bottle (wholesale price) per glass of sparkling wine,” advised Schmitt. “If you’re pouring 175mls per glass, that gives six glasses per bottle, which means you’re covering your purchase price of a single bottle with the sale of one glass.”
Investing in a tool such as the Coravin Sparkling Preservation System allows on-trade operators to “tap into all of the advantages of by-the-glass sales, without the risk of your open bottle going flat.”
Winemakers could learn from soft drink producers
The wine category could take cues from soft drinks. Speaking to db following a talk on the topic, Mintel principal strategist Alex Beckett highlighted that soft drink brands are innovating, arguably quicker than wine brands, to capture consumer attention — something wine producers may need to mirror.
Beckett pointed to “category blurring”, with soft drinks combining botanicals, functional ingredients and bold flavours. For wine, this could mean more adventurous profiles and a stronger sensory experience, particularly in no and low. Notably, 67% of UK soft drink users would rather choose an innovative soft drink than a basic no and low alcohol alternative.
Crucially, the narrative around Gen Z has been overly focused on health and wellness. While that does play a role, Beckett explained, the data shows flavour remains the primary driver. Mintel research highlights that taste (47%) and refreshment (42%) are the leading factors influencing drink choices among Gen Z, underlining that enjoyment — not just health — is the key determinant.
As Beckett put it: “Soft drink producers represent inventive and analytical competition to the alcohol industry.”
Bartenders are stripping things back in 2026
A clear shift towards quality over quantity is shaping the on-trade, with both consumers and bartenders favouring simpler drinks over complex, trend-driven serves.
For Edward Nijhoff of Rumah Bar in Rotterdam, the focus is firmly on the base liquid. “Primary products are more important than the cocktail itself,” he said, pointing to a wider “dumbing down” of cocktails. “Bartenders want key brands they can work with… more connection with the brand.”
He added that long-term partnerships are key: “How can a new brand connect with us? To want to have a partnership rather than just listing the product.”
From a brand perspective, Ingo von Ameln, commercial director at Japanese plum wine brandChoya Umeshu, agreed, stressing the importance of collaboration. “The on-trade is all about creation; the off-trade is all about volume,” he said, highlighting demand for “more umami style, less sweet… more taste experience.”
Together, these perspectives point to an on-trade landscape in 2026 that values authenticity, collaboration and depth of flavour where fewer, better ingredients and stronger partnerships are shaping what ends up in the glass.
