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Wine List Confidential: Fantômas

Douglas Blyde visits new Chelsea opening Fantômas, finding “a mix of charm, mischief, and a touch of menace” in some of the drinks, and the restaurant itself.

Named after Fantômas, the shape-shifting anti-hero of early twentieth-century French crime fiction, this Chelsea restaurant channels its namesake’s blend of intrigue and audacity. The Guardian, ever poised with a backhanded compliment, dubbed it “delicious but borderline chaotic”, while Restaurant Magazine slyly observed that chef, Chris Denney has a “(not so) secret weapon” in his collaborators, George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev – the powerhouse duo behind London stalwarts, Goodman, Beast, Wild Tavern, and Lita.

Hot Dinners, with understatement, quipped: “They always seem to work with interesting chefs.” And then there’s Lexie Hung, a prolific Google reviewer who cut through the fray with one, unfortunately unforgettable phrase: “Simply some heartfelt food burps.” Fantômas, true to its name, is a little dangerous, a little thrilling, and entirely unforgettable.

Design

Once the territory of Byron Burgers, then 28-50 Chelsea, the corner at 300 King’s Road – complete with jaunty turret and ever-watchful weathervane – has been reborn, radiating confidence amidst the flicker of candlelight. Smack opposite the Cadogan Arms, it feels both anchored and blazing, its transformation a nod to Chelsea’s shifting tastes.

Centre stage is claimed by a rise-and-fall Josper grill, visible from the open kitchen – a contraption as much about drama as utility. Its crackling embers and occasional fiery flares are a tantalising prelude to the main event: a menu kissed by flame and steeped in the primal poetry of smoke. This is cooking performed in full view of an audience which demands spectacle with supper.

The dining room, meanwhile, hums with a bold soundtrack. For those who like their indulgence with a side of privacy, the back dining room – a snug enclave for up to 18 souls – offers the added luxury of an adjoining courtyard. However, access is subject to an absurd tangle of hourly restrictions, likely dictated by the same locals who want to dine here while insisting on micromanaging everyone else’s enjoyment.

Drinks

The wine list for lovers of ABC, from Austria to Bordeaux, Britain, British Columbia, California, and even China, is overseen by Crispen Sugden, his motto, “Get On With It”, and further authored by sommelier, Gergo Feher (formerly of Ekstedt at the Yard) who believes “success is not final, failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts”. They are assisted by head of wine, Davide Portovenero, who is based at Wild Tavern (previously of Bulgari, London, and Rockpool, Sydney). Together, they have created a list of cutting edge wines interwoven with the odd museum-grade rarity.

Wines by the glass open with fizzes from Argentina , Italy, England, and France, with NV Berlucchi, 61 Saten Brut, Franciacorta at £21/125ml. The most economical still pour is the smoke-friendly, Hein Koegelenberg’s Leopard’s Leap Special Edition Pinotage (£10), with the most rarefied being 2013 Vega Sicilia, Unico via Coravin at £150, while a sweet option is Tokaj 2013, Lenkey Pinceszet, Harslevelu (£21).

Budget constraints clearly has a part to play in the some listings of sparkling by the bottle, as seen with the poverty-spec Simpsons Estate Chalkland Cuvée Brut at £110; Champagne, as a region, is not so constricted by price however. Topping the line-up is Guillaume Selosse Largiller and 1990 Krug, both at a grand.

Still options range from £40 for the 2022 Here and There, Swartland, Grenache Blanc, to £12,000 for a six litre leviathan of 1989 Mouton, via 1995 Penfolds Grange at £1,000, and 2001 Opus One for £100 more.

Selections offering relative value include the now rarely seen 2014 Bruna Grimaldi Barolo (£136), as well as another Nebbiolo, albeit from Australia, in the form of 2018 Pizzini, King Valley (£85), to 2014 Domaine de Souch Jurançon Sec, formed from Petit Manseng/Gros Manseng at £99, and the four and a half litre opus of 2004 Torbreck, The Pict Mourvedre (£900).

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Cocktails mirror their namesake, Fantômas, in their unpredictability and flair. The Capri Cooler might initially seem virtuous – tomato water and peach “wine” giving it a facade of near wholesomeness – but like the master of disguise himself, it hides layers of intrigue, and a punch of tequila. Then there’s the Tsipouro Sour, a concoction which feels entirely random, almost chaotic, yet devilishly clever. With lime sherbet, mint, and aquavit, it captures the spirit of Fantômas – a mix of charm, mischief, and a touch of menace.

Dishes

Billed as a “neighbourhood restaurant with contemporary cooking”, Chris Denney, formerly of 108 Garage, delivered a menu which felt as global as a private jet terminal. Enter Feher, the sommelier with the poise of a Wimbledon champion ready to serve – though his game was less about restraint and more about unleashing, with exuberant generosity, the artillery of his vinous arsenal. This included tastes of flor-aged Sauvignon Blanc, an Australian Riesling crafted by a Mosel maestro, and an amphora-aged Syrah with the depth of black olive tapenade, courtesy of a Kiwi cinematographer. A vinous United Nations, if ever there was one.

The wines which truly sang adhered to a singular regional focus, however. The match opened with Henri Giraud Esprit Nature Brut – an organic champagne of softer, fluffier persuasion, its perpetual reserve conveying depth. It partnered with heritage hog belly – scallop-like in texture – alongside pumpkin so seasonal we almost sensed the rustle of fallen leaves underfoot.

Mid-meal, Feher returned bearing Giraud’s Coteaux Champenois Rouge Grand Cru 2019, an exquisite, rose-petal-scented Pinot Noir he declared “the Giorgio Armani of wines”. Presented in a tactile Zalto Balance glass, the wine faced off with brazenly fried veal sweetbreads – actually tender within their crisp cocoon, emboldened by bulgogi, and sharpened by the acidic flinch of sour cabbage.

Later, its Chardonnay sibling from the same vintage appeared, accurately paired with red mullet with caponata, and a langoustine sauce so complete it could have walked in from The Ritz’s kitchens. Juicy Iberico pork chop followed, on the bone, heightened by lime-laced quince and black radish sauce.

To finish, IWA sake, iteration five, bravely served at room temperature – a nod to the collaboration between Richard Geoffroy, its creator, and Denney’s culinary ingenuity. This brown bread-scented, umami-laden compilation met its unlikely match in an espresso savarin with Chantilly cream and kaffir lime.

Last sip

Under Denney’s helm, even the smallest gesture – the placement of a mustard leaf, the pouring of a steaming broth loaded with the latent power of a nuclear warhead – crackles with a frenetic, thrilling energy. Fantômas joins the roster of culinary darlings, including Wild Tavern, which celebrated its fifth anniversary as we dined, and its cheeky neighbour, Wild Corner, where, despite its petite proportions, no fewer than 400 wines flow by the glass.

Meanwhile, the irrepressible, Bukhov-Weinstein and Demichev, exhibiting a zest for serial restaurateuring matched only by their ability to churn out hits, had just days before launched Sardinian-inspired Pinna in Mayfair, and Greek-inflected Krokodilos, Kensington. Their ambition appears as boundless as Denney’s audacious disregard for any theoretical cap on flavour.

Best for

  • New world wines
  • Private room/courtyard
  • Food from the fire

Value: 93, Size: 93.5, Range: 97, Originality: 97, Experience: 95; Total: 95.1

Fantômas – 300 Kings Rd, London SW3 5UH; 020 8191 2781; fantomas.co.uk

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