Why Monastrell plays such a crucial role in viticultural history

Getting the word out about Monastrell’s journey to becoming such a promising grape variety involves communicating its fascinating history and provenance. db reports.

The Monastrell grape variety, etymologically linked to the Latin term ‘monasteriella’, is so named to denote its association with monasteries and their role in viticulture during the Middle Ages. The term has a rich and varied history in the Iberian Peninsula and beyond and, although its origins remain elusive, it is reputed to have potential roots in both northern Catalonia and the southern regions of the Ebro or Valencia.

According to historical records which trace its presence across various winegrowing provinces, including Andalusia, Catalonia, Murcia and Valencia, Monastrell continued to gain prominence during the 19th century. Its rise in popularity has been attributed primarily to its sheer adaptability and, most crucially, the quality of wines produced, factors which have helped propel Monastrell to dominance, especially in southeastern Spain, amid the vineyard reconstruction following phylloxera.

In France, Monastrell, known there as Mourvèdre, found its way from Spain, and many attributed this migration to climatic and cultural similarities between the two nations via ports like Sagunto.

The grape variety’s introduction into different regions, which led to it being given various names, including Mataró, meant that, despite its expansive historical presence in Spain, Monastrell’s cultivation is concentrated primarily in the southeast of France, though the variety still remains authorised in 45 Appellations of Origin.

Throughout history, notable mentions of Monastrell have featured in many texts. Such citations include Jerónimo Munzer ’s reference in the late 15th century and Simón de Rojas Clemente’s description in the 18th century, all of which helped contribute to a broadened understanding of its significance in viticulture, as well as its unique qualities.

Modern ampelography, particularly in the 20th century, further enriched the grape’s classification, revealing its symmetry across terroirs which is now something that is recognised globally. The geographical spread of Monastrell from Ampurdán to Valencia underscores its journey and importance along the Mediterranean coast, and shaped the viticultural landscape of the entire region.

In other continents, Monastrell dates back to the 19th century from French and Spanish wine collections, while in Australia it was introduced in the first half of the century and in the United States in the second half. It is also considered likely that it was introduced shortly afterwards in South Africa.

The historical presence of Monastrell in the Maghreb countries (comprising western and central North Africa, including Algeria, Libya, Mauritania, Morocco and Tunisia) is also something that has shaped the variety’s reputation. This was intensified with the French colonisation from the first decades of the 19th century, giving Monastrell greater representation in Algeria and Tunisia, and later and scarcer in Morocco, Monastrell Spain is a non-profit association created in 2019 by five regulatory councils from the southeast of Spain, including Designations of Origins (DOs) Alicante, Almansa, Bullas, Jumilla and Yecla.

The association outlines that as much as “99% of the plantations of the variety are located in the autonomous regions of Murcia, Castilla-La Mancha and Comunidad Valenciana” and adds that Monastrell is the fourth most important grape variety in Spain.

For this reason, the five regulatory councils have joined forces to help promote Monastrell at both a national and international level. Above all, their key objectives are the promotion of the Monastrell grape and wine in national and foreign markets, and the improvement of the commercial, productive and innovation of the wineries and wine growers producing Monastrell.

To achieve these aims, the Association intends to develop, among other initiatives, the following activities:

• Wine promotion programmes at international, European, national, regional, provincial and local level.

• Advertising campaigns across media.

• Presence in fairs and exhibitions related to the wine sector.

• Promotion of the Monastrell wine culture in all areas.

• The establishment of relations with other associations in the same field.

• To promote and work to maintain and reinforce the natural and environmental viticultural heritage, as well as to favour rural and landscape development.

A tour of the DOs

DO Alicante was created in 1932 and includes 45 registered wineries across the province of Alicante (Autonomous Community of Valencia). It is known for having extremely calcareous, sandy-loam and sandy soils. Added to this, the easterly winds through the mountain corridors mean that the presence of humidity, both in winter and summer, give a cooler character to wines from the area.

Many years later, DO Almansa was created in 1966, and this DO includes 760 winegrowers across 11 wineries. The characteristics of the winegrowing areas include a high plateau and an average altitude of approximately 700 metres. The soils are, in general, rich in limestone, but some areas are stony while others are sandier. The climate, however, offers up very cold and dry winters and very hot summers, with rainfall concentrated in spring and late summer, with an average annual rainfall of no more than 250mm. DO Jumilla was also created that same year in 1966 and currently has 1,400 registered winegrowers across 39 registered wineries covering 21,678 hectares, 75% of which is certified organic. It is the DO with the biggest area of Monastrell vineyard in the world, comprising mainly bush and dry farmed vines, and it extends between the regions of Castilla-La Mancha and Murcia. The wine-growing area is defined by its arid climate, with altitudes ranging from 320 to 1000 metres, and calcareous gravel soils with stony limestone deposits carried over from the surrounding mountains. There is a traditional Mediterranean landscape with a mix of aromatic bushes and pines, as well as olive, almond and fruit groves. These features lend a fruitiness, minerality and balance to the Monastrell wines.

DO Yecla is a dynamic designation of origin with about 95% of its production marketed outside Spain, making its presence known in more than 40 countries around the world. It was first established in 1975 and contains 314 winegrowers across nine registered wineries, spanning 4,389ha of land.

Geographically, it includes the province of Murcia and the winegrowing area is on a high plateau where the vineyards are located at altitudes ranging from 535 to 800m above sea level. The main characteristic of the terrain is the endorheic nature of its valleys, where the soils of the area are generally made up of limestone, helping winemakers to produce white, rosé, red, sweet, sparkling and liqueur wines.

Lastly, DO Bullas was created in 1994 and has 165 registered winegrowers across 13 wineries covering 1,165ha. The characteristics of the winegrowing areas include a hilly terrain with ascending altitude ranging from south to north from 700-900m. Soils are generally loamy and high in calcium carbonate, offering good drainage. The Mediterranean climate here is also strongly influenced by the altitude of the area and has extremely harsh winters followed by summers that are very hot during the daytime, but with significant temperature drops at night and low volume of rainfall.

Monastrell: fast facts

• Synonyms: Alcayata, Balzac, Espar, Garrut, Mataró (Australia and Cyprus), Morrastel, Mourvedre (France), Mourviedro, Negria (Greece), Plant de Saint-Gilles (France) and Rossola nera (Italy).

• Phenology: It is characterised by a vegetative cycle with a late bud break and a very late ripening period.

• Plant characteristics: The vines are upright and when green the stems are reddish in colour. The shoots of the vine are an intense brown colour, with a striated surface relief. The leaves are of medium size with a pentagonal shape and three lyreshaped lobes.

• Grape characteristics: Small to medium sized with blue-black and skins of medium thickness. The flesh is juicy and not coloured. The bunches are compact, with short peduncles.

• Agronomic aptitudes: Monastrell is a demanding vine of delicate cultivation that needs high temperatures. However, it is resistant to wind and has a tendency for alternate bearing, meaning it only requires short pruning.

• Low yield: Not very sensitive to excoriosis and botrytis, but moderately sensitive to powdery mildew and spider mites. Sensitive to mildew and acid rot. Well adapted to dry climates.

• Oenological potential: Monastrell produces a sweet must, rich in oxidases, from which high-quality wines are obtained that are rich in colour, with great aroma and bouquet. Suitable for the application of carbonic maceration techniques, as well as to produce natural sweet wines in the hottest and driest areas.

Monastrell DOs at a glance

DO ALICANTE

Creation of the council: 1932

No. of registered winegrowers: 2,323

No. of registered wineries: 45

No. of hectares registered: 10,628

Monastrell distribution: 60.04%

DO ALMANSA

Creation of the council: 1966

No. of registered winegrowers: 760

No. of registered wineries: 11

No. of hecatares registered: 9,980

Monastrell distribution: 9.5%

DO BULLAS

Creation of the council: 1994

No. of registered winegrowers: 165

No. of registered wineries: 13

No. of hectares registered: 1,165

Monastrell distribution: 70%

DO JUMILLA

Creation of the council: 1966

No. of registered winegrowers: 1,400

No. of registered wineries: 39

No. of hecatares registered: 21,678

Monastrell distribution: 70%

DO YECLA

Creation of the council: 1975

No. of registered winegrowers: 314

No. of registered wineries: 9

No. of hectares registered: 4,389

Monastrell distribution: 100%

Patrick Schmitt MW provides tasting notes for a range of Monastrell wines at different price points:

SEÑORÍO DE BULLAS

Producer: Bodegas Del Rosario

Region: Bullas

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2015

Grape varieties: 80% Monastrell, 20% Syrah

ABV: 15%

Approx. retail price: £9

A rather lovely, affordable, fully ripe and gently evolved red with notes of cherry jam, prunes and blackberry, then liquorice and black pepper, followed by an appealing note of cigar box. While it’s already almost 10 years old, it still has plenty of fruit and freshness, with lingering chewy tannins, warming alcohol and a persistent note of plums, stewed dark fruit and cedar wood.

EQUILIBRIO 9M

Producer: Sierra Norte

Region: Jumilla

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2020

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £10

A brilliant-value juicy, spicy and chocolatey red, 9M – which refers to the nine months this Monastrell spends in French and American barriques – is a classic example of Jumillan Monastrell. For as little as £10, there’s ripe red and dark berry fruit, caramel cream and coconut, cracked black pepper, a touch of leather and cedar, and a mouthwatering finish, combining warming alcohol, some fresh acidity and plenty of dry tannins. Just needs a steak.

HÉCULA ORGANIC

Producer: Bodegas Castaño

Region: Yecla

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2021

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £13

This organic Monastrell from Yecla is quite light in body and colour, and has a Garnacha-like mix of strawberry and white pepper notes, combined with a touch of juicy blackcurrant and, despite the core of sweet red berry fruit, a fresh finish, with a note of sour cherry, then firm, dry tannins to coat the palate. A light and vibrant version of Monastrell that would pair well with lighter dishes and sunny weather.

TRAGOLARGO TINTO

Producer: Casa Balaguer

Region: Alicante

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2022

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 15%

Approx. retail price: £15

This light, fresh, applescented organic Monastrell from Alicante has no added sulphur and represents a ‘natural’ example in style and approach. Along with the slightly cider-like notes are flavours of raspberry leaf, white pepper and some appealing sweet red berry notes too, which give the mid-palate a pleasing juiciness. The finish, meanwhile, is firm, dry and tannic.

LOS LOSARES

Producer: Bodegas Piqueras

Region: Almansa

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2020

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £18

Organically-farmed, low-yielding old vines at high altitude in Almansa are the source of this intensely-flavoured and firm-structured Monastrell, which is just starting to mature. Among the characters in this layered, medium-weight red are stewed cherries and prunes, along with spicy black pepper and a hint of vanilla. The finish is firm and dry, with plenty of mouth-coating tannins, and a touch of sour cherry too, to give a surprising sensation of freshness as the wine is swallowed. Grilled meats would pair perfectly with this grippy red.

EL VENENO

Producer: Pepe Mendoza Casa Agricola

Region: Alicante

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2021

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 14%

Approx. retail price: £28

Plenty of fruit and grip characterise this old-vine Monastrell from Alicante, which combines blackcurrant and prune flavours with cracked pepper and creamy white chocolate notes. Medium-weight and warming, the wine has an appealing combination of fleshy fruit with some freshness and a slightly grainy, dry, tannic finish to make the mouth water.

BARAHONDA SUMMUM ORGANIC

Producer: Bodegas Barahonda

Region: Yecla

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2021

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 15%

Approx. retail price: £28

A fine and full-flavoured Monastrell from Yecla with an appealing mix of red cherry and blackberry fruit, complemented by notes of coconut, spice and cedar, as well as a touch of pencil shavings. The finish is long, with some fresh plum, then dense, dry tannins and fresh acidity. While there’s plenty of oak, alcohol and tannin, there’s also a freshness and purity to the fruit that brings energy and personality to this complex red that cries out for chargrilled pork.

ALONT

Producer: Pio Del Ramo

Region: Jumilla

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2020

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 15%

Approx. retail price: £40

A serious and powerful barrel-aged Monastrell produced by Pio del Ramo, this red wine has masses of blackcurrant, dark cherry and ripe plum fruit, paired with notes of natural liquorice, dark chocolate and cracked pepper. Structurally, it is ripe and fleshy, but not heavy, with a lively character and grippy, chunky tannins to dry the palate. An ideal wine for roast suckling pig or barbecued white meat.

BODEGA LA ERMITA

Producer: Garcia Carrión 1890

Region: Jumilla

Country: Spain

Vintage: 2019

Grape variety: 100% Monastrell

ABV: 14.5%

Approx. retail price: £40

A lovely example of maturing Monastell, with notes of baked cherry, prunes and stewed blackberry, paired with a touch of sweet balsamic, leather, cigar box and roasted coffee. While there are aged characters, there is still plenty of flesh to this wine, and indeed freshness, along with grainy, dry tannins to coat the mouth. A wine for any grilled meat, or, indeed, a strong cigar.