Pop culture: The db Asia Sparkling Masters 2023

From China to Chile and Champagne to the Western Cape, Cecilia Wong takes us through the most intriguing sips from this year’s Asia Sparkling Masters blind-tasting competition.

Which wine do you open for celebrations? Many of us will think immediately of Champagne or a sparkler. Whether it’s for birthdays, anniversaries, new year or grand openings, it’s a symbol of celebration, and we all get a thrill from the sound of a cork popping.

Thanks to the changing lifestyle of younger consumers, and the growing influence of western culture and social media, the sparkling wine market in Asia continues to grow, and it is expected to increase annually by about 5% compound annual growth rate 2023-2027, according to Statista.

Sparkling wine as a category is diverse, ranging from sparkling white, rosé to red styles, dry to sweet styles, and different winemaking methods. Various countries also offer their own takes on fizz, including Champagne from France, Prosecco from Italy, Cava from Spain, Sekt from Germany, and other sparkling wine styles from Australia, US, Japan, and China.

For the drinks business Asia Sparkling Masters 2023, a panel of expert judges blind tasted a range of sparkling wines spanning the globe, from France, Spain, Chile, China, and South Africa. The panel tasted diverse and interesting expressions from white, rosé to red, and from extra brut, brut, extra sec to doux.

The results of the competition were encouraging, with two Master awards, six Gold awards, eight Silver awards and three Bronze awards handed out.

This year’s Asia Sparkling Masters panel included: Cecilia Wong, co-chair of the drinks business Asia Masters; Juwan Kim, head sommelier at LPM Restaurant & Bar in Hong Kong; Vincent Chue, manager at the Fireside restaurant in Hong Kong; and Yu-Kong Chow, independent wine consultant.

The White Sparkling category comprised 15 entries categorised under various price ranges and dosage levels.

A Master award went to Champagne Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs Rare Collection 2012, under the Extra Brut category (price range HK$2,100–HK$2,200), made from 100% Chardonnay that is exclusively sourced from four Grand Crus, with a minimum of eight years on lees, and a minimum of one year’s rest after disgorgement. The wine has a low dosage of 4g/l, and its production is limited to 18,500 bottles and 2,000 magnums.

All four of the judges liked the complexity, balanced structure and beautiful length of these bubbles. The wine has a pale gold colour, with mineral notes and flavours of toast, brioche, honey, ripe peach, spices, apricot, citrus and hazelnut. It has refined finesse and a complex finish. “It is very balanced, with good acidity, yeasty, creamy, brioche, ripe fruit and very good length. It’s well-structured, and lovely,” said Chue.

The other Master award went to Dynasty 5° Sparkling Wine, from Tianjin, China, under the doux category (price range HK$100–HK$150), made predominantly with the Muscat grape. Although this category had just one entry, all the judges agreed that it was remarkable, with balanced flavours and very good value for money. The Chinese expression has a deep gold colour, with aromatic honey, citrus, ripe apricot, nutty, stone fruit and orange marmalade flavours.

“It’s outstanding, complex on the nose and palate, not cloying and very good value for money. I gave it the highest points of the day,” said Kim.

Among the six Gold awards, there were two priced under HK$100 in the White Sparkling Brut category. These included J.C. le Roux le Domaine Sauvignon Blanc NV from the Western Cape in South Africa, made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, with a “pale lemon colour, fruity and refreshing flavours, including citrus, gooseberries, a hint of herbaceous and tropical fruit notes”.

Speaking about J.C. le Roux le Domaine Sauvignon Blanc NV, Cecilia Wong said: “It’s refreshing, with well-balanced acidity. It has aromatic flavours and a clean finish. You’ll remember it once you’ve tried it.”

Ritmo Brut NV from Elqui Valley, Chile, made mainly from the Moscatel grape, was the other wine that won Gold in this price range, with “pale lemon colour, with refreshing and balanced flavours, including floral, citrus, tropical fruit and mineral notes”.

Another Gold winner under the White Sparkling Brut category (priced less than HK$600–HK$650) went to Champagne Barons de Rothschild Concordia Brut NV from Champagne, France, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with “pale gold colour, with floral, dried apricots, almond and mineral notes”. Yu-Kong Chow called the Champagne “crisp and complex, with elegant fruit flavours and a fairly long finish”.

Stepping up in price, in the White Sparkling Brut category priced at HK$1,000-HK$1,100, the judges enjoyed the Gold-medal-winning Champagne Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs Brut NV from Champagne, France, made from 100% Chardonnay, which boasted a “pale gold colour, with aromatic flavours including floral, creamy, toasty, citrus, apple and roasted almond notes”.

Two wines won Gold medals in the Rosé Sparkling Brut category, priced under HK$100 – Vado Rosé Brut NV, from Veyda Valley, Chile, made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with “rosy pink colour, floral, strawberries, raspberries and fruity flavours”, and Ritmo Rosé Brut NV from Elqui Valley, Chile, made from mainly Moscatel grapes, which had “pink colour, fruity, refreshing and balanced flavours, including floral, citrus, raspberries, strawberries and mineral notes”. It’s clear from the competition that no matters consumers’ tastes and budgets, there is something available in the region to sate their appetites for fizz.

White

Rosé

Red