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Unfiltered: Crispin Sugden

Wild Corner is an offshoot of Wild Tavern which GM, Crispin “Crispy” Sugden describes as, “a kind of museum of wine a 1,000,000th the size of the mighty Hedonism but with everything by the glass.”

What is your motto? 

“Get On With It.”

What is your vintage? 

  1. A pretty below-par year. However, I had a 1980 release Macallan 18 on my fortieth which was pretty spectacular.

Where did you work before Wild Tavern? 

Of note, Goodman, Beast and Pitt Cue – as well as loads of other places to pay for airfares and 50 pence a night accommodation.

What do you say of people who say Wild Tavern’s food is expensive? 

I reply most of the time, “Yes. It is.” But you get what you pay for. And as a result, we have a thriving business based on 90% repeat business.

How did Wild Corner come about? 

Owners, George and Ilya are constantly hunting for new projects. We learnt wine was a draw with Wild Tavern. Combine this with the fact there are no decent wine bars in Chelsea, then why not open a place selling 150 wines by the glass from 1939 Pichon Lalande and beyond with some decent food to go with it? Plus, it’s a minuscule spot with 18 seats, so overheads are enticingly low.

Is it a personal project? 

Absolutely and I had many sleepless nights when writing the list because I think people are really quick to judge. But I’m happy now the list is working. I can’t think of many places in the world offering what the Corner does. So it’s exciting to have something unique to work with.

What was the first wine to move you? 

Raven Syrah from Sine Qua Non. I couldn’t quite believe a grape could become what was in the glass I drank from. Started a pretty cool voyage.

Describe your lists at Wild Tavern and the selection at Wild Corner? 

Classic. I’m a firm believer in drinking what you know and love whilst occasionally dipping into other producers juice. Our guests are the same. They don’t care for obscure, biodynamic, “look at my zany label” and inconsistent soup of confusion. They know what they like and are prepared to invest in their preferences. I list all the standard big guns backed up with some absolute cannons. You know the deal. But I list them at arguably some of the most competitive prices in town.

What is the most ostentatious wine you serve by the glass at Wild Corner? 

Three vintages of Pétrus could be considered ostentatious. But I don’t think that’s a word I associate with wine.

What is the aim for Wild Corner over time? 

To continue to surprise people that having access to wines across the decades, by the glass, is possible.

What has been a cracking match betwixt wine and a dish by head chef, Marco Peri? 

Sicilian red prawn tartare and Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnés gets my juices flowing.

How would you handle a spectacularly drunken guest? 

It all depends on how they are behaving towards the team and other guests. I generally just recommend avoiding using the stairs and refraining from serving any more booze. Generally, very drunk people order and then forget they have. Then when it really is time to go. Lead them outside to the Kings Road and hope a black cab will stop.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

I’m bipolar.

Who is your favourite musician? 

If I had to choose right now, Patrick Watson. But this changes almost daily.

What grape don’t you get along with? 

New World Sauvignon Blanc has been so abused by shitty mass producers.

What ingredient do you love? 

Cheese, in all forms, that it graces this planet.

What is the longest lunch you’ve ever partaken of? 

So many 12-Midnighters that I’ve lost count. And often lost myself. Heath Ball of Highgate’s Red Lion & Sun can confirm. Nothing beats 12-hour lunch innings.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join your team?

Myself – Crispin.Sugden@wildtavern.co.uk – and they should have character and a willingness to… “Get On With It.”

Wild Corner – 8 Elystan Street, Chelsea, London, SW3 3NS; 020 8191 0704; info@wildcorner.co.ukwildcorner.co.uk

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