The Five Fields – Wine List Confidential Score: 91.4
Classic and cult labels abound at The Five Fields, Chelsea, though there’s also a Georgian Rkatsiteli orange wine if you’re so inclined…
A list with plenty of personality and energy, classic and cult producers mingling with some off-the-beaten-track references and an imaginative by the glass selection.
Head sommelier Mathias Camilleri (who used to work under 28-50’s Clement Robert at Medlar) leads an enthusiastic and knowledgeable wine team who will be able to give you the lowdown on the c.500 bins.
Burgundy and Bordeaux lovers will find plenty to titillate them here. It’s a sign of the wine credentials of Michelin-starred The Five Fields that it benefits from a private storage cellar for laying down bottles bought en primeur and extended storage. That doesn’t mean that the list remains static, however. Far from it – Camilleri works hard to keep things dynamic, with a pretty high turnover of listings and always a new and interesting vintage to enjoy of cult wines from the Cote D’Or, and left and right-bank claret.
By the glass listings run to about 20 or so and are considerately priced – whites £8-£21, reds £10-£21, with a small selection of icons available by Coravin (at the time of writing, the mighty fine Château-Chalon vin jaune from Domaine Jean Bourdy, 1992 vintage, priced at £40 for 100ml and, for the same price, Philip Togni 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon (Camilleri professes a love for New World Cabs and Syrahs, and German Rieslings, of course). The BTG list changes every three months.
A bit of an ambassador for Champagne, Camilleri also has a special side list of wines from Champagne Lanson – sample Père et Fils, Rose Label, Noble Cuvée Blanc de Blancs 2000 or Ivory Label Demi-Sec by the glass, or Gold Label spanning 1989 to 2002 vintage by the bottle. The demi-sec is a winner with the foie gras parfait with celeriac and walnut.
One of the key areas Camilleri has sought to expand during his year at the restaurants is the Italian section, which boasts a lovely selection of Piedmontese and Tuscan reds from a good spread of vintages. A Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo 2014, at just £55, would be a nice choice if you wanted something a bit classical that wasn’t going to give you the cold sweats when the bill arrived.
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