Spain’s women in wine to watch

The international marketing manager for González Byass is part of the González-Gordon Sherry dynasty. She practically grew up in the bodega, and, having started her career at a marketing company in Madrid, the chance to work for her family pulled her back to Jerez.

In her role, she has helped expand the company’s Rioja brand, Beronia, which is now on sale in 80 counties. González-Gordon is keen to promote the fact that there is more to González Byass than Sherry.

The company recently acquired Veramonte in Chile, sending out a bold message about its global ambitions. “Changing trends in the Sherry market has been a challenge, but we’re delighted to see new consumers enjoying Sherry for the first time,” says González-Gordon.

Who or what made you want to work in the wine industry? I remember coming to the bodega with my father for a very young age, so wine has always been in my blood. Everyone in my family feels a very strong sense of belonging. 

Has it been tough getting to the top of a male dominated industry? When I first started working here, the wine business was very male dominated. I remember being the only woman in a meeting! But luckily it hasn’t been an issue for me.

Do you feel a lot of weight on your shoulder being part of such a famous Spanish wine dynasty? More than weight, I see it as commitment, so that those who will follow us will come into a healthy company. It is very special to know that your children will also be part of what we are doing today.

What is the most exciting aspect of the Spanish wine industry at the moment? There is a move towards quality in wine, with producers starting to think more about longterm development rather than focusing on volume.

We are seeing this in Jerez, with a move towards specialty wines like Las Palmas. The uniqueness of our terroirs is also gaining importance and is increasingly being reflected in our wines.

Desert island wine: González Byass Palo Cortado 1978 – I’ve celebrated some of my best moments in life with that wine.

Meritxell Juvé is a name to remember in the world of sparkling wine. Working alongside her father Joan Juvé, the pair uphold a winemaking tradition that stretches back to the 1790s.

Juvé y Camps is something of a lone star in Penedès as it focuses on gran reserva Cavas that spend up to 40 months on their lees, producing five million bottles a year; 35% of gran reserva production.

Fanatical about quality, every bottle is hand-riddled. With its focus on long-aged Cavas, the house shines a light on Xare.lo due to its high acidity and high resveratrol content. Meritxell’s mission is to have Juvé y Camps recognised internationally as one of the world’s top sparkling wine brands.

What has been the biggest challenge of your career so far? Without a doubt, the global financial downturn of 2008. Cava was directly affected as it is classed as a luxury product rather than a necessity. Fortunately, we have learnt a lot and have practically recovered the same market position we had before the crisis.

What is the proudest moment of your career so far? The launch of Juvé & Camps La Capella Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2005, made with 100% Xarel·lo sourced from a 7.2 hectare vineyard called “La Capella”. In my opinion, its 10 years of ageing makes it one of the most unique and exquisite Cavas on the market.

Has it been tough getting to the top of a male dominated industry? It’s true that there are more men than women working in positions of power in the wine world. However, in the last 15 years this has changed.

Women are very determined and are able to overcome obstacles and in the wine world women are rising to more executive roles within companies.

What is the most enjoyable part of your job? For any profession, satisfaction is achieved when you see the fruit of your labour turned into a product that consumers can enjoy and appreciate. I take great pleasure in sharing our Cavas with customers and speaking with them about the exciting world of wine.

Desert island wine: Juvé y Camps Reserva de La Familia Gran Reserva.

Hoping to introduce the world to the fragrant charms of Mencía is talented young winemaker Veronica Ortega, who views the grape as the “Pinot Noir of Spain”, due to its delicacy and sensitivity to terroir.

Based in Bierzo, Ortgea makes two hand-harvested Mencía expressions: Quite (pronounced ‘keetay’) that spends eight months in oak, and top drop Roc, made from an 80-year-old schist vineyard in the village of Valtuille de Abajo.

Before settling in northern Spain, she cut her teeth at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Crozes-Hermitage in the northern Rhône, and was mentored by Alvaro Palacios in Priorat.

“Most people view Spanish wine as highly concentrated and alcoholic – I want to show that there’s another way. I want to make a Burgundian style of wine,” she says. She is experimenting with ageing a portion of Quite in amphora and made her first Godello this year. Her dream is to return south to make Sherry from her own solera.

Who or what made you want to become a winemaker? The real beginning for me was my first grape harvesting in Jerez. After that I headed to Priorat where I was fortunate enough to work with Alvaro Palacios, who became my teacher and mentor. I was struck by his passion and decided to devote myself entirely to the art of winemaking.

How would you describe your winemaking style? Minimal intervention. I try to work with the best raw material and not force anything. I don’t use yeast or additives, except low doses of sulfur as Mencía is a vulnerable variety. But I work in as natural a way as possible.

My aim is to produce a wine of character that reflects the variety of the area and the climate, nothing more. I like wines that speak to you and reflect where they come from. Wines that are lively and elegant, fresh and drinkable.

Who is/was your winemaking inspiration? I’ve been lucky enough to work with amazing producers, some I still consider as the best and most complete professionals that exist, for whom I feel a deep admiration. I particularly respect Benjamin Leroux’s precision. I consider him one of the best producers in Burgundy.

What has been the biggest challenge of your career so far? Starting from scratch, alone in a relatively short period of time.

What is the most enjoyable part of your job? The comforting feeling pf being a part of something as mystical as a bottle of wine,

Desert island wine: Castillo Ygay 1964 for its complexity and finesse.

Having taken the reins at Pazo de Señorans in Rías Baixas from her mother, Vicky Mareque Bueno is in charge of the jewel in the northwestern Spanish region’s crown – home to long-aged Albariños that have helped to put Spanish fine whites on the map.

As the grape gains popularity, it is being planted everywhere from California to Australia, though Mareque Bueno believes Rías Baixas Albariño is inimitable. Pazo de Señorans makes around 15,000 bottles of its top wine, Selección de Añanda, which spends an average of 30 months on its lees, selling it in 35 countries including the UK through Berry Bros & Rudd.

Bueno is currently working on a sweet wine made from local grape Blanca Legitima and is on a mission to get Albariño regonised as one of the great white grapes of the world.

Has it been tough getting to the top of a male dominated industry? Not at all. It has never been an issue for me. Perhaps in some cultures I saw a bit of surprise in their faces initially. I don’t feel that we are in a male industry anymore. The previous generation of women did a great job.

What is the most enjoyable part of your job? Getting to share your happiness and fears with growers, collegues, producers, clients, journalists, wine lovers and having the chance to meet people from all over the world that share a passion for Pazo Señorans and the wine world in general.

What is the most exciting aspect of the Spanish wine industry at the moment? Spain is working hard to make beautiful wines with attractive prices. Winemakers are focusing on bringing the best out of our indigenous varieties that are well adapted to their terroirs, like the Albariño from Rías Baixas.

What is the proudest moment of your career so far? Creating the Pazo Señorans Colección and the launch of the 2007 vintage of Pazo Señorans Selección.

Desert island wine: Pazo de Señorans Selección de Añanda 1997.