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Top 10 wines in the UK press
By Lauren EadsPercheron Old Vine Cinsault, South Africa 2013
David Williams recommended three “great wines made with Cinsault” writing in the Guardian this week – a southern French grape variety he said is often “taken for granted”, but which is “capable of producing some excellent wines”.
He said: “The Cinsault red grape variety, much maligned when it isn’t being ignored entirely in its southern French home, has become an unlikely flavour of the month in some parts of the southern hemisphere. I mentioned the Chilean producer De Martino’s vital version made in clay pots here last week. I’ve since tasted a more conventional but equally lithe and lively, cherry-herbal example made in the same southern Itata Valley by a producer, Montes, that has hitherto specialized in brawny reds (Outer Limits Cinsault 2013, £15.99, Liberty Wines for stockists). Both are evidence of exciting new directions in Chile, but Cinsault also seems to be catching on in South Africa, and the juicy, earthy and briskly refreshing Percheron is one of the country’s best-value reds.”
Price: £6.49, Slurp; Cheers Wine Merchants; Noble Green Wines; Selfridges
Waterkloof Seriously Cool Cinsault, Western Cape, South Africa 2013
“Even better than the Percheron”, according to Williams, is this Cinsault from South Africa’s Waterkloof Estate on the Southern Cape.
He said: “Owned by British wine importer Paul Boutinot (whose eponymous company, which he sold in 2013, also imports the Percheron), Waterkloof makes one of my favourite South African whites, the Circle of Life White Blend (Slurp has the nervy but richly peach-fruited 2011 for £12.85). The Cinsault has a similar breezy feel to go with its sappy cranberry and svelte tannins which, as the name implies, are designed to be served after a half-hour or so in the fridge with, I reckon, a plate of spicy charcuterie.”
Price: £14.39, Noel Young Wines
Cune Barrel-Fermented Blanco 2013 Rioja, Spain
Susy Atkins sought out the best white wines for autumn writing in The Telegraph this week.
She said: “Whites with less acidity, but weightier texture, and with riper, more lingering flavours. Summer’s whites are meant to refresh; autumn’s should satisfy. We don’t need the racy zing and spritz of a mouth-watering light, grassy wine now. Instead, flavours should be mellow, soft and rounded enough to go with classic autumnal roasts and casseroles of game birds or chicken, or dishes made from courgettes, onions or squashes.”
Of this white Rioja she said: “100% Viura grapes, fermented in American oak for four months to give a lightly wood-spiced and buttery lick to the wine. Pair it with smoked fish or chicken.”
Price: Waitrose, £10.49
Kings Ridge Pinot Gris 2013 Willamette Valley, Oregon, America
Another of Atkins’ autumn white selections was this Pinot Gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
She said: “Subtle, sophisticated stuff, but there’s apricot, peach and baked apples aplenty – and a long, satisfying finish, slightly off-dry. Impressive.”
Price: Marks & Spencer, £12.99
2013 LaVis, Storie di Vite, Pinot Grigio, Trentino, Italy
Matthew Jukes, writing in the Daily Mail, recommended this “mightily impressive” Italian white.
He said: “It delivers cracking, raspingly fresh, pineapple and spice notes. So many PGs miss the mark with soapy, dilute flavours – this wine is the genuine article. Serve it with the Greek style roast vegetables, the Prawn stir fry or the Smashed up chicken recipes.”
Price: £9.49, Waitrose
2013 Negroamaro, Puglia, Italy
This 2013 red, made from the “quirky southern Italian grape” Negroamaro, was another of Jukes’ recommendations.
He said: “This budget Negroamaro is the counterpart to my other version this week and in spite of its price it accurately explains the allure of this quirky Southern Italian grape.
“The fruit is smooth, there are touches of boot polish and prunes on the nose and the palate is not tannic nor is it heavy, it’s just intense and rewarding.”
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Price: £7.50, Marks & Spencer
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Coonawarra
Jamie Goode, writing in The Express, picked out “seven of the best” Australian wines – a region he credits with introducing him to the wine business.
He said: “I used to find the classic French and Italian wines off-putting: the labels were obscure, the image was elitist and the wine itself was often – let’s be frank – not very nice.
“Then, in the 90s, the Aussies came along with their big, friendly, fruity flavours and clear labelling by grape variety. Not surprisingly, they took the market by storm.”
Of this 2008 Wynns red he said: “This is the 53rd vintage of this Aussie classic, from a region known to produce some of the country’s best cabernet. A sturdy but polished red, it has lovely blackcurrant fruit, with savoury notes adding interest.”
Price: £15.99, Waitrose
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2006, Hunter Valley
Goode also recommended this 2006 Semillion which he said “ages brilliantly”.
He said: “Unoaked and low in alcohol, Hunter Valley Semillon is a unique style of wine. It ages brilliantly, and this eight-year-old example is already showing bags of character, as well as pure citrus-fruit notes. It’s excellent value, too.”
Price: £8.99, Tesco
Dehesa de Quixana El Ingenioso 2013
Terry Kirby, writing for the Independent recommended this red wine from Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain, made from a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot and Petit Verdot, as perfect for a Sunday lunch.
He said: “Bursting with fresh blackberry, black cherry and dark plum flavours and with a long, satisfying finish, it is ideal with rare steak, beef fillet or venison.”
Price: £11.99, virginwines.co.uk
Clefs du Pontif Marsanne Viognier, Languedoc, France
Finally, Kirby picked this “exotic” Marsanne Viognier French blend, which he said was more suited to a midweek meal.
He said: “The creamy Marsanne in this Languedoc bottle forms a solid base on which the more exotic, wilder Viognier can strut its stuff, with beguiling floral aromas and flavours of apricot, pears, honey and spice. Goes with any white fish but terrific with Asian seafood dishes, as long as the chilli is under control.”
Price: £8.99, averys.com