Bordelais seek greater control of distribution

Leading Bordeaux châteaux will soon appoint exclusive importers and may open retail shops to protect the quality and authenticity of their wines, according to Michael Egan, director of auctions at Bordeaux Winebank.

Speaking to the drinks business at Vinexpo, Egan said, “I think in 10 years from now the top châteaux will have exclusive distributors worldwide, like, for example, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, who has an exclusive importer in each market and strict rules to protect the brand, such as breaking the bottle after serving.”

Continuing he said, “And maybe the first growths will have their own retail shops.”

Currently, however, Egan expressed concern at the number of leading Bordeaux labels changing hands due to the rise in fine wine trading, which, he said, is increasing the risk of fakes and damage to the wine, particularly when it comes to heat exposure.

“If the wine is superheated it will affect its long term longevity, it will taste older when it’s younger,” he explained, comparing the effect to the premature ageing of the skin due to excessive sunbathing.

He also recorded, “The châteaux are now asking more and more searching questions – they want to know what’s happening to their wine – and you see more châteaux owners travelling to promote themselves, they are much slicker when it comes to marketing.”

Referring to Bordeaux Winebank, he explained that the company operates a “five-star provenance” promise, which includes documented sourcing direct from the château, guarantees professional storage in Bordeaux since bottling, and ensures the transport is temperature and humidity controlled – while every case shipped is equipped with a temperature recording sensor that can be used to check for changes.

“We want the châteaux to choose us above other negociants because we are the most responsible,” said Egan’s colleague, Gregory Charles, who handles communications for the company.

Charles added, “Wine should be shipped like vegetables, fish or food, it needs to be taken care of in temperature controlled ships and lorries.”

Further, he expressed frustration that “People are selling without clear provenance… and wines that have travelled the world can sell as much as wines straight from the châteaux.”

Charles also reminded that Bordeaux Winebank is an “importer, distributor, negociant and retailer”, with a fine wine shop in the city of Bordeaux called Max Bordeaux which opened in 2009 and includes six Enomatic sampling machines containing all the first growths among other top wines such as Château d’Yquem.

Then, on 30 June, the company is opening Bordeaux Impériale in Taipei, “which will sell just the best stuff, so first growths from the ’80s to 2000 and larger formats.”

“I think there is a big future in fine wine retailing in Taipei and Tokyo,” said Egan, adding that there was scope for such a concept, including sampling machines, in all major metropoleis.

Henning Thoresen, owner of Bordeaux Winebank also said that being able to try the wines before buying as well as getting a guarantee of provenance was a powerful combination.

“People would rather pay $1,200 than $1,000 and get the real stuff – it is not about the price but the provenance.”

He also pointed out that the châteaux themselves are holding increasing quantities of stock in an attempt to more tightly control the distribution of their wines.

“Ten years ago the châteaux sold 80% of the vintage en primeur and kept 20% for the future. Now they have reversed it, and 80% is kept for the future.”

Patrick Schmitt, 23.06.11