Chile’s lack of identity hampering producers

Chile’s most promising point of difference is its diversity of soils and ability to produce a vast range of styles, but the country still suffers from a lack of identity, believes the fine wine marketing director of its biggest producer Concha Y Toro, Isabel Guilisasti.

Isabel Guilisasti, marketing manager for Concha Y Toro

Speaking to the drinks business on a visit to Chile last week Guilisasti, marketing manager for Concha Y Toro, praised the efforts of young winemakers to elevate the Chilean wine industry and diversify its offering, but admitted that one of the country’s key challenges was to craft a clearer identity for Chile as a country, as well as overcoming its initial reputation for good value, reliable wines.

“In the beginning we were known for good quality and low prices”, said Guilisasti. “But other countries like Spain, Italy and France also produce very good quality at low prices, so we have to differentiate in another way. I think that big difference in Chile comes from the diversity of soils that we have. We can produce Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay – we are very dynamic. We still have that reputation of low priced, good quality wines but we are trying to move from that and that is very challenging. That’s where the effort is as an industry.”

However in a country “isolated” by the Atacama desert in the north, Pacific to the west and Andes to the east, Chile has battled to create a solid identity compared with its neighbour Argentina, said Guilisasti, whose cuisine and heritage is more easily recognised by international consumers. Guilisasti said Chile was yet to capitalise on its two biggest geographical assets, the Andes and the Pacific, which together represent all corners of Chile’s diverse wine offering and cuisine, suggesting a campaign highlighting the country “from the mountains to the sea” could help the country build a stronger international identity.

“That is something that we have to do as a country”, she said. “We haven’t built an image of our country. It is very difficult in some ways to construct. When you thinks about the story of Chilean wines we used to be very orientated to the Andes. That’s why we have a very good range of red wines. Like our gastronomy our wines related to the Andes. But since the 1990s and 2000s we started focusing to the coast. A new generation of winemakers are orientated to the Pacific.”

With vineyards stretching over 900km from north to south Chile is defined by its proximity to the coast and Andes mountain range and is consequently home to a vast breadth of climates, soils and altitudes affording its winemakers the ability to produce an array of wine styles. In the warm vineyards of the Central Valley Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere dominate while in the coastal regions of Casablanca and San Antonio aromatic varieties including Gewürztraminer, Riesling and even Syrah, where it is on the cusp of its ability to ripen, are gaining prominence. The potential of the southern regions of Bio Bio and Itata, which are far wetter and cooler than those in the north, is only now starting to be explored.

A marked departure from the robust, oaked reds of the past, a trend for fresher, lower alcohol wines with less oak has emerged in recent years with winemaker Marcelo Papa, responsible for Concha’s Casillero del Diablo and Marques de Casa Concha brands, among the many winemakers choosing to pick earlier in order to producer fresher, more elegant wines.

“We started our wine business focusing on the export market, always looking internationally”, Guilisasti said in reference to the evolution of Chilean wine. “So the consumer is something we have always had to look at. The main focus of Chile is trying to achieve wines that can satisfy different consumers palates and in that sense we have to be very innovative.”