Italian winemakers consider new varieties

Italian winemakers will vote next week over whether to introduce new grape varieties to their region.

Producers in Rosso di Montalcino will gather on Wednesday 7 September to vote on whether or not to allow the introduction of varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah to the traditionally Sangiovese-based wine.

Rosso di Montalcino is supposed to be 100% Sangiovese, but in the case of a “yes” vote, a small proportion of these other varieties – up to 15% – will be allowed to be added.

Wine writer Nicolas Belfrage MW has appealed to the producers, in an open letter, to vote “no”, explaining that such a move would “fatally undermine the personality of the wine.”

He continued: “I would urge you in the strongest terms not to support this change. Rosso di Montalcino, like Brunello di Montalcino, has created for itself a strong personality on international wine markets based largely on the fact that it is a pure varietal wine.

“In these days when more and more countries are climbing on the wine production bandwagon it is more important than ever to have a distinctive identity, to make wine in a way which no one else on earth can emulate.”

Belfrage added that such a decision suggesting that Bordeaux or Burgundy add Syrah or Sangiovese to their appellations would never be considered so why should it be in Tuscany?

“I am aware,” he continued, “that a lot of Merlot and Cabernet are planted in the Montalcino growing zone, and that there may be a need in the short term to find a commercial use for these grapes.

“But there are the options of St. Antimo or IGT Toscana. Perhaps, instead of compromising the purity of one of Montalcino’s unique wines, there should be more effort in the direction of promoting these other wine-types.”