Wildfires threaten historic vineyards in Sierra de Gredos
More than 50,000 hectares have burned in Ávila as producers wait to discover the extent of the damage to Sierra de Gredos’ old-vine Garnacha and Albillo Real vineyards. Several historic parcels have already been lost as firefighters continue to battle one of Spain’s most destructive recent wildfires.
Residents, winegrowers and firefighters across Sierra de Gredos – which is around 150km west of Madrid – are battling one of the most destructive wildfires in Spain’s recent history.
As of Sunday, 26 July, the Burgohondo fire remained active, although its main perimeter had been contained, with several fronts still burning. The latest estimates suggest that it has affected more than 50,000 hectares in the province of Ávila and forced thousands of residents to evacuate their homes or remain confined.
The region, internationally renowned for its old-vine Garnacha and Albillo Real, remains under severe pressure. Firefighters have been working to control the blaze since it began near Burgohondo last Wednesday.
It is still too early to assess the full extent of the damage to vineyards. Many producers remain unable to enter the affected areas, while others are only now beginning to discover what has been lost.
Historic San Gregorio vineyard damaged
Among the vineyard losses confirmed so far is the San Gregorio vineyard belonging to Bodega El Reventón, owned by Adrianna Catena, Alejandro Vigil and Gearóid Lane.
The old-vine parcel, which produces one of the estate’s top wines, has suffered extensive fire damage.
“We have suffered huge damage to our historic San Gregorio vineyard, whose wonderful grapes make one of our two single-parcel wines,” said Gearóid Lane, co-founder of Bodega El Reventón.
“We are working to assess the extent of the damage to these old vines, some of which date back to the 1920s. We are heartbroken, but Alejandro, Adrianna and I are unwavering in our dedication to this wonderful region.”
Cebreros vineyards exposed
Cebreros is among the wine-growing areas exposed to the fire. Chuchi Soto, founder of Soto Manrique and manager of the local cooperative winery, has also lost one of his vineyards to the flames and is awaiting news of his other plots.
“The vineyards in the Gredos area lie in mountainous terrain surrounded by woodland,” Soto told the drinks business. “They are small plots enclosed by trees and vegetation that are left to grow unchecked. This is what makes the area so distinctive, but also so dangerous.”
“In Spain, the laws protecting woodland are very strict, and the vegetation is allowed to grow freely. If we take action ourselves, we are fined. As things stand, it is difficult even to gain access when trying to put out a fire.”
Firebreaks protect Indiano Wines parcel
Indiano Wines lost several old vines when the fire encircled one of its vineyards over the weekend. Thanks to the team’s work clearing undergrowth and keeping the vineyard floor clean, however, the flames did not advance further into the plot, instead burning the surrounding forest.
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“The problem is the lack of resources to manage the land and care for the region throughout the year,” said Indiano co-founder and viticulturist Charly Gotchac.
“We need the firebreaks to be maintained throughout the year. They are vital. We keep our vineyards clear so that we can harvest fruit, but the same needs to be true of all cultivated and forested land: the pine plantations, chestnut groves and olive groves. Today, that is not the case.”
“We are in a poor region with few resources, and one that is being abandoned by the younger generation,” Gotchac added. “This creates risks for the future. And it is only 26 July. We still have all of August ahead of us, which is the highest-risk month.”
Irreplaceable viticultural heritage at risk
The damage to Gredos’ irreplaceable viticultural heritage will not be measurable until the fire has been extinguished and producers can return safely to their vineyards. For those on the ground, however, there is little doubt that the landscape has already been profoundly changed.
“The Gredos we know and love no longer exists,” said Bárbara Requejo, winemaker and co-founder of Las Pedreras.
“This catastrophe, which seems to have no end, has destroyed our landscape, our greatest asset, and will have catastrophic consequences for the region’s economy. I hope that we, winegrowers, winemakers, livestock farmers and those working in hospitality, will be able to act together and demand from the authorities the support we need.”
Region remains in shock
The region remains in shock, with residents and producers waiting anxiously for the fires to be brought under control.
“We are still in shock, and there is no system in place yet to raise funds,” Gotchac added. “The damage is so enormous that we do not even know who to help first. Many people have lost everything: their businesses, homes, farms and animals.”
“We are waiting for the wind to drop and the fires to abate, but that has not happened yet. We are still in the middle of the emergency.”
At the time of publication, no dedicated fundraising initiative had been established for the Gredos wine community. In the meantime, buying wines from the region and supporting its producers offers one immediate way for the wine trade and consumers to show solidarity.
Amanda Barnes MW is the drinks business’ regular South America correspondent and author of The South America Wine Guide.
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