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The story behind Taiwan’s soy sauce maker turned whiskey distiller

Soy sauce maker Wan Ja Shan, a household name in Taiwan, turned heads in 2023 with its first venture into the world of spirits. Leona De Pasquale discovers what sets the Irish-influenced whiskey apart as it embarks on its international debut.

The story behind Taiwan's soy sauce maker turned whiskey distiller

When Taiwan’s 80-year-old soy sauce icon Wan Ja Shan announced its move into whiskey-making, jaws dropped. Founded in 1945, the company’s name, which translates to “Aromas to 10,000 Households”, is synonymous with naturally brewed soy sauce and expertly crafted condiments.

In 2023, it boldly launched Dawu whiskey, named after the sacred mountain of southern Taiwan’s indigenous people. The move surprised many, given Wan Ja Shan’s deep-rooted association with Taiwanese culinary traditions. Its iconic 1986 TV advert, featuring the tagline “one barbecue, Aromas to 10,000 Households”, helped popularise barbecuing as an essential part of the Mid-Autumn Festival — using its soy sauce, of course — shifting the focus from mooncakes and moon-gazing to grilling with family and friends.

The move to whiskey-making proves that even a long-established culinary giant can master an entirely new craft. Its Double Cask whiskey and Peated whiskey have already garnered multiple international accolades.

“It’s actually a logical step,” says Dr Frank Lin, Wan Ja Shan’s whiskey consultant and a veteran of the state-run Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation (TTL), where he honed his craft over 38 years. “The fermentation process for whiskey shares similarities with soy sauce brewing; the real challenge lies in mastering distillation, which is highly technical and completely new to the company.”

Founded after Japan’s post-WWII withdrawal from Taiwan, Wan Ja Shan is now led by second generation chairman Wu Jen-Chun, with his son Wu Luyang as president. Despite its strong reputation in Taiwan and the US, the fiercely competitive soy sauce industry, coupled with its slim profit margins, have driven chairman Wu to explore ways to elevate the brand.

Chairman Wu Jen-Chun (L), with his son and company president Wu Luyang

Inspired by Japanese soy sauce makers diversifying into alcohol production, Wu envisioned a bold new direction. The real opportunity emerged in 2002, when Taiwan’s accession to the World Trade Organisation dismantled the government’s alcohol monopoly, opening the door for private enterprises. By 2011, after years of research, Wan Ja Shan had assembled a team of experts to venture into the world of spirits. This effort culminated in the launch of its first oat-based soju, which achieved early success in the domestic market and fuelled ambitions for further expansion.

In 2016, chairman Wu enlisted the recently retired Lin as a consultant, aiming to establish Wan Ja Shan as Taiwan’s third whiskey producer. Together, they decided to craft an Irish-style triple-distilled whiskey, setting it apart from Taiwan’s other celebrated distillers, such as Kavalan and TTL’s Omar whiskies, both of which are rooted in Scotch traditions.

“The decision to follow the Irish style was twofold,” explains Lin. “Firstly, it gave us a distinct point of difference from our competitors. Secondly, given our distillery’s location in Pingtung—Taiwan’s southernmost and tropical region—we believed the Irish triple distillation process was better suited to crafting a more refined, balanced whiskey for this climate.”

Lin acknowledges that “Taiwanese consumers often find Irish whiskies too light and delicate for their palate”. However, he believes the robust flavours naturally developed in the tropical heat could benefit from the triple distillation method. “The process helps smooth the intensity, creating a more balanced and harmonious profile,” he says.

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Chairman Wu fully supported the approach, and the results speak for themselves. Wan Ja Shan’s whiskey has since garnered international acclaim, a testament to the success of the company’s bold leap into the world of spirits.

For Wan Ja Shan, success is not the result of beginner’s luck but the culmination of meticulous research and careful planning. From the outset, the goal was to operate as a boutique distillery, with the core business firmly rooted in soy sauce production. In 2024, it produced just 12,000 bottles of whiskey, primarily for the domestic market. This approach affords the company the freedom to experiment, particularly in the selection of ingredients. From the beginning, oats have been imported from Australia for the whiskey — once again, to carve out a niche and create a more delicate flavour profile.

“To be honest, I’m not sure why oats work so well for us,” says Lin. “Perhaps it’s the high fat content, but after experimenting with barley and even local sweet potatoes, we all agreed oats provide the best-rounded texture that we enjoy,” he explains.

The story behind Taiwan's soy sauce maker turned whiskey distiller
Dawu Mountain, the sacred mountain of southern Taiwan’s indigenous people

Other ingredients, such as rye, have also produced excellent results, with plans to incorporate them into production in 2025. Although Taiwan’s warm climate is unsuitable for growing oats or barley, requiring distillers to rely on imports, Wan Ja Shan’s long-term vision as a boutique producer includes utilising more local ingredients, such as red beans, quinoa, and millet.

Producing whiskey in Pingtung’s tropical climate presents unique challenges, most notably an accelerated maturation process. The angel’s share — the portion of whiskey lost to evaporation — is significantly higher in southern Taiwan compared to cooler climates. To address this, Wan Ja Shan has constructed a specialised maturation facility equipped with temperature and humidity controls to ensure consistent conditions and safeguard the quality of the whiskey.

“We are the only distillery in Taiwan with such a facility, due to the high costs involved, particularly in terms of electricity consumption,” comments Lin.

Fortunately, Wan Ja Shan generates sufficient electricity through solar panels installed on its factory rooftops. Under the tropical sun, these panels not only power the production process but also generate surplus energy, which is sold as certified renewable energy and carbon offset products to companies like Apple.

The distillery’s innovative approach to waste management further underscores its commitment to sustainability. For years, nutrient-rich soy sauce lees — a by-product of production — have been eagerly utilised by local livestock farmers as an additive to animal feed. More recently, whiskey by-products have been blended with soy sauce lees, ensuring that all waste is upcycled and environmental impact is minimised.

Looking ahead, Wan Ja Shan is poised for ambitious growth. While its whiskey is currently available only in Taiwan, the company is set to enter the Japanese and UK markets in 2025.

Wan Ja Shan’s transformation from a traditional soy sauce producer to a boutique distillery exemplifies its unwavering commitment to innovation, sustainability, and craftsmanship. As it prepares to establish itself on the global stage, it stands as a compelling example of how tradition and innovation can seamlessly coexist to create something truly extraordinary.

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