Auction update: Clos des Goisses

Champagne Philipponnat can trace its winemaking heritage back over five centuries, resulting in superlative cuvées such as Clos des Goisses. 

Grower Champagne is the ‘in’ thing at the moment, but the Champagne houses should not be overlooked. Their prestige, vintage cuvées guarantee quality time and time again, and some of these, such as Philipponnat’s single-plot Champagnes, are rarer at auction than a Romanée-Conti grand cru.

The Philipponnat family’s winemaking roots go back over five centuries and, while the company was sold to the Boizel Chanoine Champagne Group in 1997, the Philipponnat family continues the work of its ancestors to this day. The estate is currently managed by Charles Philipponnat, who took over the reins in 2000, and his son François. Together, they oversee 20 hectares in the Marne Valley, and a production of around 700,000 bottles per year – a production size similar to Krug. The grapes, which mainly grow on premier and grand cru plots, go on to create 13 different, complex wines, including several single-plot cuvées which are rare for the region.

The quintessence of the house is reflected in blancs de noirs Le Léon, La Rémissonne and Les Cintres. Each of these wines are crafted solely from Pinot Noir grapes grown on a single plot, with the estate inspired by the Burgundian approach to winemaking to showcase the terroir in their distinctive wines.

These unique, single-plot Champagnes are only produced in their thousands, making them so rare that they only appear at auction once in a blue moon. iDealwine, France’s leading online wine auctioneer, sells more than 200,000 bottles a year at auction, yet La Rémissonne has passed through its doors once in the past five years – a bottle from the 2009 vintage. For comparison, La Romanée-Conti Grand Cru appeared 15 times in the first six months of 2024, from several vintages. Talking of rare gems, the estate has just released its 2015 Clos des Goisses. Gois or Goisse means “a very steep slope” in the local dialect, and the 5.5ha walled vineyard, acquired in 1935, is aptly named, given its 45-degree gradient. The south-facing chalk slope, often referred to as the “jewel in Philipponnat’s crown”, offers the perfect conditions for ripening grapes but, due to its incline, no machines can be used. Yields are kept low, with the grapes from one vine producing on average one bottle of wine.

As with the house’s other Champagnes, Pinot Noir takes centre stage, but this time, it is also supported by a proportion of Chardonnay grown in the same vineyard (true of all vintages except 2011, which was solely made from Pinot Noir).

Vinification partially takes place in oak barrels, which adds complexity without premature oxidation, and malolactic conversion is avoided so that the terroir ’s natural beauty can shine through in the glass. The wine then rests on its lees for 10 years in the house’s cellars and is released only when it’s ready to be opened, although it can be stored for several decades more in the cellar, during which it will continue to develop magnificently.

Vintage after vintage, the house delivers an elegant and ample Champagne that holds its own when paired with flavourful dishes. Due to its high Pinot Noir content, Clos des Goisses is a “very fine wine before being a very fine Champagne”, as Philipponnat says. And, because of this, it can pair beautifully with dishes featuring game, truffle and cheese – contrary to usual Champagne pairings. Charles Philipponnat has been quoted as saying “Champagne likes fattiness” in food, and Philipponnat’s Champagnes are crafted with this idea in mind. It’s no wonder that King Louis XIV chose this Champagne to serve at his table.

The intense work required in the vineyard to create the “jewel in Philipponnat’s crown” is rewarded once the Champagne is released onto the market. The 2014 vintage has a current price estimate of €196 and is gaining traction at auction. But it’s the house’s mature vintages that cause a storm. The 2002 vintage has a current price estimate of €287 and, earlier this year, a 1982 Clos des Goisses sold for €701 on iDealwine, representing a 133.43% increase over a 10year period. It’s no wonder that iDealwine has listed wine from this unique vineyard as an auction star. The company is, however, quick to point out that the 1982 vintage is now extremely rare, which is probably what led to this incredible hammer price, and bidders may not have to part with a similar amount of money for other vintages.

Looking at the Champagne market in general, iDealwine reported that 4.3% of the volume it sold at auction in first half of 2024 came from this region. For reference, this figure was 4.1% for the whole of 2023.

We all know that Champagne comes into its own towards the end of the year, thanks to the numerous celebrations that occur around the world during Christmas and New Year. When looking back at its data from 2023, iDealwine found bottles sold in December being auctioned for 40% or more above their estimated price.

These included a bottle of 1986 Brut Vieilles Vignes Françaises by Bollinger that went under the hammer for €1,878, 50% above the vintage’s estimated worth, and a bottle of Extra Brut Le Jardin d’Ulysse by Ulysse Collin, which sold for €701, a full 44% above its estimate. So it seems that there’s nothing to stop a bottle of one of Philipponnat’s rare Champagnes from being equally successful this year.

Auction update in association with iDealwine.com

• Founded in 2000, iDealwine is France’s top wine auctioneer and leading online wine auction house worldwide.

• Fine Spirits Auction (FSA) is iDealwine’s dedicated spirits platform, launched in partnership with La Maison du Whisky, a French specialist in high-end spirits since 1956. Seven auctions of the finest whisky, rum, Cognac and more take place annually.

• Based in Paris, and with offices in Bordeaux and Hong Kong, iDealwine sources rare bottles from European cellars, private collections and direct from producers before meticulously authenticating and shipping to enthusiasts, collectors and trade customers worldwide.

• If you are keen to sell your wines or spirits, check out idealwine.com.

About the Barometer

In 180 pages, iDealwine’s annual auction Barometer analyses the fine wine auction market and delves into the latest trends in fine wine. With an in-depth look at 15 French wine regions, fine wines of the world and a list of rising-star producers in each one, the Barometer is an invaluable resource for serious wine enthusiasts. The Barometer is available for purchase on iDealwine.com, with a complimentary copy provided for clients.