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Master Winemakers Top 100: Fernando Costa

12 March 2024 By Michael Huband

Fernando Costa, oenologist at Marqués de Cáceres, features as one of our top 100 winemakers. He tells db about exciting Rioja vineyards, his “meticulous” father and relaxing with a rosé.

After graduating with a degree in Chemistry from the University of Santiago de Compostela, Fernando Costa went on to complete his oenological studies. He joined Marqués de Cáceres in 2001 as deputy oenologist to Fernando Gómez, taking over in 2016. In his role he supervises the fermentation processes and ageing of the range.

Costa won a Master medal for the Gaudium 2016 at the Rioja Masters 2023.

Describe your winemaking approach in no more than three words.

Respect the grapes.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

The harvest crystallises a whole year of hard work, but it’s also a cause for concern, for we have to pay great attention to detail and react swiftly to any important issues.

What’s your go-to drink at the end of a long day?

A glass of red wine helps repair the body and mind, but when I’m tired, I prefer to relax with a glass of fresh and fruity white or the attractive colour and flavours of a vibrant rosé.

Which aspect of the job keeps you awake at night?

All of them. If you want to be meticulous, you can’t miss any detail. Being on the lookout is very stressful. However, knowing that you are doing the best job possible is what keeps us sleeping at night.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Without the grape there is no wine. We cannot forget that everything starts with the grape.

What was your greatest winemaking mistake?

In the past I was mainly focused on the wine and its production; however, throughout the years I have learned more about the value and character of the terroir and the grapes. Today both of these are the driving force shaping my work and professional vocation. Nowadays, these are my greatest motivations and joys.

What’s the most important winemaking lesson you’ve learned so far?

So far, I have learned a lot, but I am sure that the most important lesson is yet to come. Winemaking is a constant learning process where if you think you already know everything, you are completely wrong. Every year is different and teaches you new things.

Which figure outside the world of wine inspires you?

Without a doubt, my father. I hope to resemble him just a little. He was hard-working, meticulous and an exceptional worker. As children we are the image of our parents and he is the figure from which I draw my inspiration.

Where would your fantasy vineyard be?

I am very thrilled with the latest purchases of vineyards that the company acquired in 2019. On the one hand, we have some superb vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, which also house some terraced plots facing the Sierra Cantabria mountain range; but secondly, we have reinforced our commitment in Rioja Alta with our “Pagos de San Vicente”, another wine-growing gem. It is an outstanding asset and the foundation of our innovative projects in which viticulture provides solutions to satisfy the demands for the highest-quality wines.

If you weren’t a winemaker, what would you be doing and why?

Probably something related to the sea, which is another passion that dates back to my childhood.

What’s the most memorable food match you’ve had with one of your wines?

As a Galician, I must say that my favourite is the Antea with oysters: a sure hit. Although what makes a perfect pairing is the occasion and the company – these are the elements that make all the difference.

What role does sustainability have to play in a Master-winning wine?

Sustainability plays a decisive role in all wines. If you want to maintain quality and keep working, you have to respect nature and all the parties involved in the selection and production process. It is essential to take it into account when making decisions on a day-to-day basis.

Which type of wine do you drink most regularly?

Reds, the best of which is our Excellens Cuvée. It fits in at any time and in any company, goes perfectly with many dishes and is a life assurance in terms of quality.

Your home is on fire: which bottle do you save?

I have thought about it 1,000 times: the Generación MC 2001, the first vintage of this signature wine and the initial results of my first vintage at the winery. In my opinion it is an exceptional wine.