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Viña Maquis: a point of difference

Offering idiosyncratic wines and vintages old and new via La Place de Bordeaux, Chile’s Viña Maquis is one to watch for collectors.

Among the increasing number of fine wines that are disseminated worldwide by French négociants in September is something a little bit different. Hailing from Chile, it joins the ranks of great South American names distributed via La Place de Bordeaux, and yet it stands apart for a few key reasons.

For a start, it’s not from the Maipo Valley. Nor is it based on Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather, it’s from a special site in Colchagua, and its top expressions are made from Cabernet Franc and Carmenère, called Franco and Viola respectively. As for the producer, that is Viña Maquis – aname to watch in the expanding world of collectable wines handled by La Place. It’s also a winery with an impressive stock of maturing bottles, allowing it to release older vintages alongside the more recent – an important source of proof that these wines reward cellaring.

Then there’s the style of wines you’ll find from this producer. Made using grapes from old vines grown without rootstocks between two rivers, the raw material for Viña Maquis is high-quality and inimitable. And, crafted with the help of top Bordeaux consultant Eric Boissenot, the final wines are beautifully structured, with fine tannins and fresh acidity, that frame a core of concentrated, pure berry fruit flavours. In an era when top-end expressions can be rich and warming, Viña Maquis offers a refreshing alternative: reds with a pleasant restraint, and an impressive ageing potential.

Importantly, Viña Maquis chose to launch a younger and older expression of both labels at the same time, giving buyers the chance to sample the same wine with an additional six years’ ageing.

This year ’s releases comprise Viña Maquis Viola and Franco 2013 and 2019, which you can read about below.

Maquis Viola, 2013

This more mature release hides its 10-yearold status admirably. Mixing with aromas of stewed cherry and raspberry are scents of cedar and thyme, before the palate reveals further notes of blackberry and plum, along with a touch of rhubarb. Complementing these fruit flavours are additional elements, from cigar box to dried herbs, and a lingering, spicy cracked pepper character. The wine is still fleshy and fruity, with a fine chalky-textured dry tannin on the finish. Evolving, but far from tired, this finely-structured Carmenère is drinking well now, but could be aged for another decade.

Maquis Viola, 2019

A deeply-coloured wine with an intense nose of blackcurrant, peppercorn, tobacco and pencil shaving, and a palate that’s concentrated and firm, with masses of blackberry flavours, along with cherry and plum, dried thyme, sage and bay, followed by a lingering note of cedarwood. The fruit is pure, ripe and concentrated, but without jamminess or alcohol warmth, and the texture tight and fine, with a mouthwateringly dry, refreshing edge. A delicious wine in its youth, with the potential to age slowly and brilliantly – meaning it may well be in even better shape in 10 years’ time than the 2013 vintage is today.

Maquis Franco, 2013

This aged expression of pure Cabernet Franc has aromas of stewed raspberry and prune, balsamic, dried herbs and rose petals. The palate is still lively, with layers of flavour from dried cherry to crushed strawberry, white pepper, thyme and chalk. A bit more evolved than the Viola from the same vintage, this fleshy, mature red wine is ready to drink, but with the fine, dense tannins and freshness to stay in good condition for another few years.

Maquis Franco, 2019

A red with inviting aromatics of ripe raspberry, fresh plum, some thyme, capsicum, along with dark chocolate and cedar. Such characters are joined on the palate by notes of fleshy crushed cherry and strawberry, some white pepper and raspberry leaf, along with cream and cocoa powder, then a touch of chilli pepper too. An excellent expression of pure Cabernet Franc with plenty of fine, dry tannin, giving a slightly austere side to the finish, although the core is filled with ripe, pure, concentrated red berry fruit. Persistent, dense and balanced, this is a wine with great ageing potential.

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