Mezzacorona: exploring Trentino Pinot Grigio in the winery

Trentino producer Mezzacorona finds nuance across their Pinot Grigio range, using modern and ancient winemaking techniques.

Mezzacorona understands Pinot Grigio. As one of the largest producers in Trentino, the region that stretches from Lake Garda to alpine foothills, the grape is one of its key products. The winemakers understand both its opportunity and risk: the grape is hugely popular, yet sometimes written off as weak. Meeting demand and challenging that reputation are both key to the company’s approach.

Pinot Grigio has boomed over the last 30 years. From around 3,500 hectares in 1990, Italy’s plantings now total more than 32,000ha. The global appetite continues to grow, and the UK is particularly keen, routinely ranking the grape as a top three variety for consumers.

Mezzacorona, however, has a substantially longer history. Founded in 1904, it is an association of more than 1,500 growers, tending 2,800ha (more than a quarter) of Trentino DOC’s vineyards. This represents generations of expertise with the grape.

In fact, even before its founding, the region was recognised as ideal for its production. As far back as 1883, experts at the local Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige were recommending the variety for its abundant, uniform harvests and high quality.

The company’s focus, therefore, is expressing the variety’s potential while embracing its ease of production. The approach means that, across the range, sensitive winemaking should add nuance.

The valley, a natural protection from cooling influences, means that the grapes can achieve balanced, ripe aromas consistently. With vineyards across the whole Trentino DOC, Mezzacorona routinely seeks out this ripeness, even in more keenly priced bottles. At higher price points it uses the finest spots in the valley, such as the protected cliffside vineyards of Mezzacorona village for the Musivum Pinot Grigio.

Further aromatic intensity is provided through gentle maceration. The grape’s distinctive pinkish skins are full of aromatic compounds, which maceration can add to the final wine along with richer texture. Notably, this approach features across the range, with varying intensities to complement each individual style.

A century’s experience keeps the winemakers attentive to the grape’s demands. Though this can involve high-end technology, such as temperature controlled maceration, much of it encompasses techniques that are refreshingly low-tech.

The Musivum Pinot Grigio uses the natural rhythms of the harvest to balance flavour and freshness. The grapes are left on the vine later than usual to accumulate flavour and weight, but early morning picking retains their acidity. Far removed from technological wizardry, these traditional techniques are just as important in the end result. Meanwhile batonnage, another ancient process that is usually associated with Chardonnay, adds texture to the company’s Domenica Pinot Grigio.

Even oak, flying against the light unoaked stereotype, finds a place in the portfolio. Premium wines such as the Musivum Pinot Grigio use it to add complexity. However, even moderately priced bottles show oak influence. The Castel Firmian Riserva Pinot Grigio sees 60% of the wine aged in small oak barrels, layering vanilla over the ripe fruit aromas.

Trentino may only be one region, but Mezzacorona demonstrates the variety of Pinot Grigio it can produce. It is a firm riposte to the grape’s naysayers: if handled intelligently, the grape is far from weak.

All of the above Pinot Grigios won medals at the Global Pinot Grigio Masters 2023, and are featured below with tasting notes from Patrick Schmitt MW.

Musivum Pinot Grigio

• Producer: Mezzacorona
• Region: Trentino
• Vintage: 2018
• Grape varieties: 100% Pinot Grigio
• ABV: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £40

A fascinating expression of Italian Pinot Grigio, with a straw-coloured appearance and some evolved aromatics from its five years spent ageing in bottle. Mixing with notes of nuts and citrus zest are flavours of beeswax and marmalade, along with a hint of creamy vanilla and baked apple. Texturally, although this is quite a rich wine, there is a dry, tangy, gently bitter edge to the finish.

Domenica Pinot Grigio

• Producer: Mezzacorona
• Region: Trentino
• Vintage: 2022
• Grape varieties: 100% Pinot Grigio
• ABV: 12.5%
• Approx. retail price: £8

A lovely, affordable pale white wine with flavours of ripe pear and white-fleshed peach, balanced by a cleansing lemon-fresh sensation and a touch of chalkiness. While there are plenty of bright zesty characters in this Trentino Pinot Grigio, it has a soft, fruity appeal too.

Castel Firmian Pinot Grigio

• Producer: Mezzacorona
• Region: Trentino
• Vintage: 2022
• Grape varieties: 100% Pinot Grigio
• ABV: 12.5%
• Approx. retail price: £8
• Medal: Silver

A clean, youthful example of the region’s style. Fruit leads the way with lemon zest and touch of pear and peach, but there is an appealing oiliness too. A touch of sweetness runs through, but the finish is dry and satisfying.

Castel Firmian Pinot Grigio Riserva

• Producer: Mezzacorona
• Region: Trentino
• Vintage: 2022
• Grape varieties: 100% Pinot Grigio
• ABV: 13%
• Approx. retail price: £12
• Medal: Silver

This is a fruit-led, youthful wine with a layer of creaminess in the aromatics. There is an intense palate of juicy lemon, plus hints of tangerine and pear, that continues to a long, fresh, zesty finish. It is dry, tangy and taut, with delicate tannic grip. Neither too creamy nor overtly oaky, it just shows a touch of dry nuttiness on the finish.