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All the medal-winning wines from The Rioja Masters

While the region’s traditional wines are a reliable source of excellence, a new wave of disruptive creations wowed the judges at the Rioja Masters 2022, writes Patrick Schmitt MW.

For a region with such a traditional image, Rioja is remarkably dynamic. Those wire-clad bottles with their classic yellow labels and gothic script in fact belie a part of the wine world that’s evolved to meet the demands of a wide range of consumers, and to keep pace with their changing tastes. At the same time, Rioja has managed to amass and retain a following at the mainstream, conservative end of the market – an area that’s not easy to draw in, nor to hold onto. And the secret to Rioja’s success stems from a triumvirate of attributes.

The first relates to the region’s marriage of a memorable name and a distinctive, appealing and consistent style. Rioja is famous, and yields wines that rarely fail to deliver a lovely combination of juicy red berry fruit, dry tannins and fresh acidity. These are wines that are neither thin nor confected, but fully ripe and bright.

The second concerns the exceptional price-to-quality ratio that you regularly get with Rioja. There are large quantities of complex and balanced wines on the shelf from this region that retail for under £10, while fine, aged and more concentrated expressions, often fully mature, can be had for £25 or under. So Rioja offers a reliable quality and style, and it’s good value.

As for the third positive trait, that relates to the extraordinary diversity of Rioja. This is an area that has a recognised quality tiering system, based around barrel and bottle ageing. Due to this, it yields wines that can be Beaujolais-like Jovens – or brick-red, evolved Gran Reservas that offer an elegant, unique drinking experience that is so rarely found outside this part of Spain. While such mature styles tend to be based on long ageing in American oak barrels, there is a new wave of more ‘modern’ Rioja too. Generally richer, more tannic and aged in new French oak, these show another face of the region – and one that would appeal to the sipper of the great, bold reds of the world, from Super Tuscans to California Cabernets.

Beyond that, Rioja can offer yet more. There are also single-vineyard and/or single-varietal bottlings (which are often very old-vine expressions), along with crisp, pale rosados and delicate, inexpensive fresh whites – not forgetting the barrel-fermented blancos with depth and cellaring potential. In almost all cases, the basis of such greatness is Tempranillo – the signature grape for the region’s reds and rosés, but also, increasingly, whites too, with the newly-authorised Tempranillo Blanco producing outstanding results.

So, what were the highlights from this year’s competition? To begin, inexpensive Crianzas with their vanilla and cherry characters were a notable element, proving that those looking for instantly appealing reds sub-£10 should consider this category of Rioja – and if you want proof, try Castillo De Albai.

For a bit more spice, depth and maturity, Reserva Rioja is the most reliable source of premium wine from the region – but prices range widely, from about £10 for a brilliant-value example from Bodegas La Eralta to almost £100 when it comes to the benchmark: Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza.

As for the Gran Reservas, these can be great, but there is more variation here in style and quality. But at £25, the expression from Monte Real is a remarkable, reliable and deliciously traditional taste of this classic style. Some of this year’s most exciting categories, however, weren’t among these long-standing and well-known age segments. Found within the Vinos de Autor (signature wines) is an area of rule-breaking Rioja. These are usually a sort of souped-up, rebel Rioja – with more concentration and new oak – that are Spain’s answer to Super Tuscans, which is why I refer to them as Super Riojas. What makes them thrill tends to be the sourcing, with such wines bottled to express particular sites, usually with very old vines, sometimes at high altitudes.

They are often varietal wines, and occasionally field blends, released without the extended ageing required of Gran Reservas, ensuring they offer intense fruit flavours. Lovely examples include those from Ollauri, Altos de Rioja and Rolland & Galaretta, although almost every Rioja in this category gained a Gold medal or higher. That is unprecedented. Finally, I was enthused by the whites now emerging from Rioja. Some outstanding examples came from Manuel Quintano, Rioja Vega and Ysios, using native grapes and barrel ageing to yield nutty, zesty blancos with so much appeal now, but ageing potential too. Those drinkers priced out of the market for Bourgogne Blanc might do well to look towards Rioja, where the best producers successfully unite fine oak and citrus flavours to create a wine that would appeal to the longstanding sipper of fine Chardonnay.

As I noted at the outset, Rioja is far from staid and, in my view, the most exciting changes right now concern the region’s barrel-fermented whites and disruptive reds – both of which deserve the term Super Rioja.

Here are the results from The Global Rioja Masters in full, and to see an in-depth report on the latest developments in Spain’s wine scene, please click here.

White Joven
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Pagos del Rey Castillo de Albai Blanco 2021 Gold
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Blanco 2021 Silver
Bodegas Campo Viejo Blanco 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Pata Negra Blanco Viura 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Antaño Blanco 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Platino BCO Semi 2021 Bronze
£10-£15
Rioja Vega Blanco Colección Tempranillo 2021 Silver
Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta Tempranillo Blanco Martínez Lacuesta 2021 Bronze
Fincas de Azabache Tempranillo Blanco 2021 Bronze
£15-£20
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Tempranillo Blanco 2021 Silver

 

White Crianza
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£20-£30
Bodegas Lar de Paula Manuel Quintano Blanco Sobre Lías 2018 Gold
Bodegas Lar de Paula Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2018 Silver

 

White Reserva
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£15-£20
Eguren Ugarte Reserva Blanco 2018 Silver
Bodegas Cosme Palacio Blanco 2018 Silver
£20-£30
Bodegas Muriel Blanco Reserva 2015 Gold
Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva 2019 Silver
£30-£50
Rioja Vega Blanco Tempranillo Reserva 2019 Master

 

White Vinos de Autor
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£15-£20
Bodegas Bilbaínas La Vicalanda Blanco 2021 Gold
£20-£30
Bodegas Bilbaínas Viña Pomal Garnacha Blanca 2020 Silver
£30-£50
Bodegas Ysios Ysios Blanco 2020 Master
Bodegas Ollauri Conde de los Andes Blanco 2018 Silver
Bodegas Luis Alegre La Reñana Blanco 2019 Silver

 

Rosé Joven
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Marqués de Cáceres Excellens Rosé 2021 Silver
Criadores de Rioja Baron Amarillo Rioja 2018 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Antaño Rosado 2021 Bronze

 

Rosé Vinos de Autor
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£30-£50
Bodegas Ysios Rosé 2021 Gold

 

Red Joven
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Tinto 2021 Gold
Bodegas Campo Viejo Garnacha 2021 Silver
Fincas de Azabache Tunante Tempranillo 2021 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Antaño Tinto 2021 Silver
Bodegas Campo Viejo Tempranillo 2020 Bronze
Pagos del Rey Castillo de Albai Tempranillo 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Pata Negra Selección 2019 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Solar de Carrión Tinto 2021 Bronze
Fincas de Azabache Tunante Tempranillo 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Montequinto Tinto 2021 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Antaño Selección 2019 Bronze
£15-£20
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Garnacha 2021 Silver

 

Red Crianza
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Pagos del Rey Castillo de Albai Crianza 2018 Gold
Bodegas La Eralta Ivanto Crianza 2018 Silver
Bodegas La Eralta Señorío De La Eralta Crianza 2018 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Montequinto Crianza 2018 Sllver
Marqués de Carrión Pata Negra Crianza Special Edition 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Crianza 2018 Silver
Solar Viejo Crianza 2018 Sllver
Marqués de Carrión Pata Negra Crianza 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Solar de Carrión Crianza 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Antaño Crianza 2017 Silver
Bodegas La Eralta Hacienda El Olmo Crianza 2018 Bronze
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Crianza 2018 Bronze
Marqués de Carrión Viña Arnáiz Crianza 2018 Bronze
£10-£15
Bodegas Muriel Crianza 2019 Gold
Rioja Vega Crianza 2019 Gold
Bodegas Ugalde Crianza 2019 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Puerta Vieja Colección 2020 Silver
Fincas de Azabache Azabache Crianza 2019 Silver
Fincas de Azabache Baron de Ebro 2019 Silver
Marqués de Cáceres MDC Crianza 2018 Bronze
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Origen 2019 Bronze
£15-£20
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Crianza 2020 Gold
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Cuvée 2020 Gold
Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Crianza 2020 Silver
Fincas de Azabache Crianza Garnacha 2019 Silver
Bodegas Cosme Palacio Laguardia Crianza 2018 Silver
£20-£30
Bodegas Manuel Quintano Selección Particular 2018 Gold
Fincas de Azabache Coscojares 2018 Silver
Bodegas Lar de Paula Crianza Edición Limitada 2016 Silver
Altos de Rioja Altos R Crianza 2019 Bronze
£30-£50
Marqués de Carrión Bodegas Ermita Rioja 2019 Gold

 

Red Reserva
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Bodegas La Eralta Altos de Bergasa Reserva 2017 Gold
Marqués de Carrión Antano Reserva 2016 Gold
Bodegas La Eralta Hacienda El Olmo Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas La Eralta Señorío de la Eralta Reserva 2017 Silver
Pagos del Rey Castillo De Albai Reserva 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Pata Negra Reserva 2016 Silver
Hacienda y Viñedos Marqués del Atrio Baron Amarillo Rioja Reserva 2016 Bronze
£10-£15
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Reserva 2017 Gold
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2015 Gold
Bodegas Campo Viejo Reserva 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Viña Arnáiz Reserva 2017 Silver
Marqués de Carrión Marqués de Carrión Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Reserva 2018 Silver
£15-£20
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva 2019 Master
Bodegas Montecillo Edición Limitada 2017 Gold
Marqués de Cáceres MDC Reserva 2016 Silver
Eguren Ugarte Reserva 2015 Silver
Bodegas Muriel Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Ugalde Reserva 2018 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Reserva 2019 Bronze
£20-£30
Bodegas Proelio Proelio Reserva Vendimia Seleccionada 2017 Gold
Rioja Vega Reserva 2018 Gold
Bodegas Cosme Palacio Viñedos Viejos Reserva 2015 Silver
Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta Hinia Reserva 2012 Silver
£30-£50
Altos de Rioja Altos R Reserva 2017 Master
Rioja Vega Venta Jalón Reserva Especial 2016 Gold
Bodegas Montecillo Viña Monty Graciano 2016 Gold
Bodegas Manuel Quintano Reserva 2015 Gold
Bodegas Montebuena Clos Montebuena Reserva 2015 Gold
Rioja Vega Reserva 140 Aniversario 2016 Silver
Bodegas Lar de Paula Edición Limitada 2015 Silver
£50-£70
Marqués de Cáceres Gaudium 2016 Master
Bodegas Riojanas Albina Essencia 2012 Bronze
£70-£100
Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza Reserva 2009 Master

 

Red Gran Reserva
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£10-£15
Bodegas La Eralta Hacienda El Olmo Gran Reserva 2016 Gold
Bodegas La Eralta Altos De Bergasa Gran Reserva 2016 Silver
£15-£20
Bodegas Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 2015 Silver
£20-£30
Bodegas Muriel Muriel Gran Reserva 2014 Master
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 2016 Gold
Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Gran Reserva 2016 Gold
Rioja Vega Gran Reserva 2015 Silver

 

Red Vinos de Autor
Winery Name of Wine Vintage Medal
£10-£15
Bodegas Proelio Viñedos Viejos Garnacha 2018 Silver
£20-£30
Rioja Vega Con Gracia 2018 Gold
£30-£50
Bodegas Ollauri Conde de los Andes Tinto 2016 Master
Altos de Rioja Altos R Pigeage 2016 Master
Bodegas Luis Alegre La Reñana Tinto 2018 Gold
Bodegas R&G Rolland Galarreta Rioja 2015 Gold
Bodegas Luis Cañas El Palacio 2018 Gold
Bodegas Amaren El Cristo de Samaniego 2018 Gold
Bodegas Luis Cañas Camino Leza 2017 Gold
Bodegas Amaren Amaren Carraquintana 2018 Gold
Bodegas Proelio La Canal del Rojo 2017 Silver
Bodegas Proelio Puerto Rubio 2018 Silver
£50-£70
Bodegas R&G Rolland Galarreta Esencia 2015 Gold
Bodegas Ysios Ysios Lagunazuri 2018 Gold

About the competition

The Rioja Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and is an extension of its successful Masters series for grape varieties, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as other regions such as Champagne and Tuscany. The competition is exclusively for Rioja wine, and the entries were judged using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Sensible Wine Services. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Rioja Master.

The entries were judged on 20 September at Humble Grape in Fleet Street, London. The judges were Patrick Schmitt MW, Andrea Briccarello, Conal R Gregory MW, Keith Isaac MW, Adam Porter MW, Patricia Stefanowicz MW, Siobhan Turner MW and Demetri Walters MW. Please visit The Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions, please call +44 (0)20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com

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