Unfiltered: Klearhos Kanellakis

The head sommelier of Ekstedt at The Yard talks to Douglas Blyde about how to pronounce his ancient name, a fondness for wines with silky tannins, and a hankering to become a potter…

What is your vintage?

I was born in Greece in 1985, a great vintage in many classic European regions from which I have tasted Château Margaux, Sybille Kuntz Spätlese Riesling and the legendary Sassicaia.

How do we pronounce your name?

“klé.ar.kʰos” is quite a rare name of ancient origin. To simplify it, I’m happy when people call me Kleo. 

Where did you work before?

I moved to London after accepting an offer from 67 Pall Mall. Being part of the opening team of a completely new and innovative project was a very exciting period. At 67, I tasted exceptional wines, but the highlight was meeting so many inspiring people in the wine industry, from members and journalists to winemakers. After four years I decided to join a new project: the opening of independent fine dining restaurant, Trivet. It was great to work beside Isa Bal MS, the co-owner of the restaurant, and to develop a wine programme with a list which follows the journey of the vine through history.  

What bottles sparked your oenophilia?

At the beginning of my hospitality career, as a waiter, I remember enjoying a glass of Moscato d’Asti after my shift. And once my friend, Dimitris offered me a glass of Tokaji 5 Puttonyos. I was amazed by the intensity and the aromatic complexity. That ambrosia sparked my curiosity to learn more about wine. 

Describe your list? 

A medium-sized selection where I like to include wines from inspiring winemakers with great personalities. It is a great way to support them, and it enables me to share their stories with our guests whilst enhancing their dining experience.

How many bins are there now, and how many do you want to take it to?

About 300 wines with a strong European focus. The wine pairing which accompanies the tasting menu is very popular and enables me to keep the wine offering quite dynamic.

What are some of your favourite producers on the list? 

Matthieu Barret with his elegant style of Cornas, Guimaro from Ribeira Sacra for their mineral driven Godello and Mencía, San Leonardo for their delicious Bordeaux blend with silky tannins, and finally Guissepe Cortese for his charming Barbarescos.

What is an exciting pour via Coravin? 

A recent addition to the list is a world-class Chardonnay from Samantha O’Keefe of Lismore Estate in South Africa. For reds, Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi 2016, and occasionally I use Coravin for a spoonful of Royal Tokaji Essencia 2008.

What has been a standout wine and food match?

Estate Argyros Vinsanto 2014 with cep soufflé served with white chocolate, blueberries and pine ice cream. The slightly savoury nature of the dessert enhances the layered complexity of the Vinsanto. The dried fruit character of the wine is in perfect balance with the caramel notes of the soufflé. Niklas Ekstedt is our executive head chef, Matthew Voisey is our head chef and Therese Anderson our sous chef. We taste food and wines together when changing the set menus.

What do they enjoy drinking?

Niklas likes dry Rieslings and, for reds, Beaujolais crus. Matt and Therese both like mineral-driven whites with refreshing acidity, but Matt likes drinking his apple juice during a shift!

Is it a challenge to pair wines with dishes which bear so much smoke?

No, it’s a pure pleasure for lovers of volcanic wines like me.

Describe the playlist?

A mix of Swedish and English songs to honour the marriage of Swedish cooking techniques with British ingredients.

What style of wine don’t you get along with?

The combination of very ripe fruit character and generous oak is not my jam.

Do you prefer Malagousia or Assyrtiko?

Malagousia for a summer picnic in the park with friends, but a complex, bone-dry, bottle-aged Assyrtiko would be my ultimate desert island wine.

Which is the best table at the restaurant in your opinion?

My favourite table would be close to the kitchen to be able to see the chefs in action and watch the open fire.

What is your favourite film of all time?

Matrix Matrix Matrix. It’s a good cocktail of martial arts and philosophy.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

If I wasn’t a sommelier, I would be a professional basketball player or a mathematician. When I retire, I plan on drinking great wines and making my own pottery.

Where do you go on your days off?

Recently, I visited the SlowBurn, which had great food and a unique atmosphere, Casse-Croûte for their daily changing lunch menu, and the Canton Arms pub for their good selection of ales and wines.

If you could have a superpower, what would it be?

It would be the ability to teleport myself to any wine region of the world.

What is your motto?

“Reach what you cannot.”  

And finally, what do you look for when hiring people?

Attitude is the deciding factor. The second most important is a passion for gastronomy.  

Ekstedt at The Yard – 3-5 Great Scotland Yard, London, SW1A 2HN; 020 7925 4749; enquiries.ekstedt@greatscotlandyard.com; ekstedtattheyard.com