Beyond the realm of mortal pockets

20th March, 2019 by Gabriel Stone

Every generation faces its own challenge. Not so long ago, Burgundy’s domaine owners were chasing ripeness and customers. Today, their children are more likely to be faced with a surfeit of both, but it is the latter that is proving particularly unwieldy, writes Gabriel Stone.

The world has seen an explosion of fine wine fanatics and, after the inevitable detour through Bordeaux, many turn their gaze to the Côte d’Or. The trouble is, and this only adds to the allure, unlike in the Médoc there just isn’t that much of the top stuff to go around. Cue a basic supply and demand imbalance that has left long-term customers of these wines in despair as allocations shrivel and prices soar.

While Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has long been beyond the reach of mortal pockets, it is now being joined by a host of other names. January 2019 saw Liv-ex report a 168.8% price rise for its Burgundy 150 index over the last decade, with the region’s share of trade during that same period expanding from 1% to 14.5%.

Domaines Armand Rousseau, Leroy, Coche-Dury and Ponsot are just some of those caught up in this frenzy. Inevitably….

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