8 of London’s best new restaurants for wine

5. Cabotte

Founded by Master Sommeliers Xavier Rousset and Gearoid Devaney, Cabotte is a showcase of the pair’s passion for Burgundy (several of its partners are Burgundian winemakers) and is named after the small huts that winegrowers have within their vineyards.

True to its unswerving theme, Cabotte’s wine list is made up almost exclusively of Burgundian classics, alongside interesting rarities, and is divided by region and then classification – offering helpful guidance for the uninitiated as well as those well versed in Burgundy. Its 24-page list covers every inch of the region, sweeping from Chablis to the Mâconnaise, offering a good range of vintages – albeit only a handful from the 20th century – from villages to grand cru vineyards.

On the sparkling side, its Champagne list offers a diverse array of grand marques and grower Champagnes, from Dom Pérignon and Bollinger to A.R Lenoble and De Sousa, along with one English sparkling wine from Gusbourne, a nice touch in an otherwise wholly French list.

The rest of the world is not totally ignored, with a few pages dedicated to wines from regions in France other than Burgundy, Spain and Italy, with sparse listings from New World producers.

This is an unashamedly Francophile wine list, and it works.

Expert Picks

• Albert Bichot, Pure, Crémant de Bourgogne – France – Sparkling – £39

• Domaine Michel Lafarge, Les Aigrots, 2010 1er Cru, Beaune – France – White – £115

• McHenry Hohnen, 2012, Burnside Vineyard, Margaret River – Australia – White – £49

• Domaine Taupenot-Merme, 1998, Charmes Chambertin, Côte de Beaune – France – Red – £300

• Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello, 1992, Santa Cruz Mountains – USA – Red – £400

• Terrantez ‘Frasqueira’, 1977, D’Oliveiras, Madeira – Portugal – Fortified – £160

Wine List Confidential overall position: 51

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