Uncorked: Chris Hatcher

Chris Hatcher first joined Australian winery Wolf Blass in 1987, working on its white and sparkling wines. After 30 years, Hatcher has move up to be its chief winemaker, overseeing its entire winemaking operations. Under his tutelage, the winery’s ‘Black’ range has won many international accolades including at the Asian Cabernet Sauvignon Masters hosted by dbHK for its Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Malbec Blend. The red won the ultimate accolade of a Master at the competition. The seasoned winemaker reveals to dbHK what bottle of wine he would compare himself to, and how a child raised in a strict Methodist household grew up to find a lifelong career in wine. 

What vintage are you? 

1952; the Year of the Dragon, the first commercial release of Grange (price today is AU$30,000 a bottle), rated a fine year in Bordeaux, and an excellent vintage in Champagne.

What bottle sparked your love of wine? 

Many wine connoisseurs have a very simple introduction to wine but are captivated by the fermented grape. The first wine I tasted was Orlando Starwine when I was 17.

What would you be as a wine? 

Something mellow, aged and distinctive. A very old Barossa Tawny I think.

Where are you happiest? 

At home sitting in my garden sipping on a glass of great wine.

What’s your greatest vice?

Wine. I grew up in a Methodist family and my mother told me to avoid three vices – gambling, alcohol and immorality. I have been married for 43 years to the same woman, and I don’t gamble but wine is my hobby, passion and I get paid to indulge in my vice. Anyway two out of three is not too bad.

Best advice you ever got? 

Just after I started at Wolf Blass, Wolfie [founder Wolfgang Blass] walked into my office, picked up a bottle of wine, pointed at it and said “no gold medals, no job”. That solidified my philosophy of continual improvement and not accepting second best.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save? 

My Methodist upbringing taught me to save for a rainy day and not to risk my life for a bottle of wine. I have two cellars in different locations so I will be okay, and also great bottles can still be purchased at auction.

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business? 

Best: I get paid to enjoy and perfect my hobby.

Worst: occasional vintages are extremely difficult and it is a challenge to make great wines.

What’s on your wine bucket list? 

To see my children Kate and Tom have successful careers in the wine industry.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? 

My wife and extended family and Tuoi Do to cook. Tuoi is the chef at my favourite restaurant, FermentAsian in Tanunda.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)?

I am extraordinarily privileged to make wine in the best country in the world, so 99/100 (I don’t believe anything can be a perfect 100).

Which wine would you like served at your funeral?

1998 Wolf Blass ‘Black Label’ as it was a significant turning point in my winemaking career.