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Jim Barry Wines launches Clare Valley Assyrtiko
Australia’s Jim Barry Wines has launched a wine made from the Greek grape variety, Assyrtiko, that has been grown in the Clare Valley.
It is the first time the white grape variety, which is indigenous to the Aegean island of Santorini where it grows on volcanic soils, has been grown in Australia, following a lengthy process of importation and quarantine of the cuttings.
The project has taken ten years to come to fruition, having started when the winery’s md Peter Barry first tried the wine on Santorini and identified it as suitable for the modern Australian palate. The first vines were planted in 2012 at the estate’s Lodge Hill vineyard, and now accounts for around 3 hectares.
Barry argued that Assyrtiko was well-suited to the hot climate in the Clare Valley – but noted some differences between the Australian expression and the Santorini wines, adding that the Jim Barry Wines Assyrtiko provided a true expression of the terroir of Clare Valley.
“Our soil and climate have imparted their own unique characteristics to our Assyrtiko, however I believe we have reproduced some similar characteristics to the Assyrtiko of Santorini, producing a richer wine with a mineral/salty finish,” he said.
The site chosen for the Assyrtiko at the Lodge Hill Vineyard is on a south facing slope with slate soils on the North-Eastern ranges of the Clare Valley, and benefits from wind from the Gulf of St Vincent, 60km west of the site, which blows the heat out of the canopy and allows the grapes to retain their natural acidity, Barry explained, a hallmark of the Assytriko grown on Santorini.
In terms of vinification, the grapes are hand-harvested and stored in a cold room overnight, before being pressed and cool fermented in stainless steel tanks.
“At this early stage, our Assyrtiko is showing more aromatics than the Assyrtiko of Santorini, but is displaying a similar mineral/saline character on the palate.” Barry said.
Santorini Assyrtiko, which has been protected by PDO status since 1971, has developed something of a cult following among wine enthusiasts due to its intense mineral flavour, high acidity and complex aromatics. Many of the island’s vines are ungrafted and unaffected by phylloxera, which is unable to survive in the volcanic soils of the island, and the average age of vines is around 60-70 years old. Growing on layers of lava, sand and pumice stone that retain moistures, the vines are not irrigated, and the arid climate and exposure to strong winds increases the stress on the grapes, giving greater intensity.
Barry said the venture following in the footsteps of his innovative winemaker father, Jim Barry, who pioneered the planting of Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec in Clare Valley during the 1960s.
“While the laborious process of importation and quarantine of cuttings has discouraged many growers in Australia from trying something new, I, like my father, have an interest in growing grapes that have a sustainable future in our region,” he said.
“Santorini has an arid climate, with an average rainfall of 300mm. With the advent of climate change and global warming, Assyrtiko is a variety that is well suited to the changing landscape of Australian winemaking.”
The wine made its debut at the Australia Day tastings in London in January, and just under 500 dozen of the 2016 vintage will be released this year, being primarily through the on-trade in Australia.