Bordeaux 2015: Lynch at the limit

Lynch-Bages’ opening price is sure to cause a sharp intake of breath but might it be a savvy buy?

With a release price of €84 a bottle ex-négociant, a 40% rise on the 2014 opener, at first glance it might appear the Pauillac ‘flying fifth’ has fluffed it.

It has a strong score from Neal Martin of 93-95 and was scored well by most other critics too (95-96 from James Suckling, 17+ from Jancis Robinson MW).

As the Liv-ex chart makes clear, the 2015 is “pitched between the ‘great’ years of 2005, 2009 and 2010 and the ‘off’ vintages.”

There have been some dissenting voices. French critic, Jean-Marc Quarin gave the wine just 87-points.

Nick Martin of Wine Owners told the drinks business: “Is Lynch 2015 in the same bracket as 2005, 2010? – No. Is it comparable with 2014 and 2006? – Much more likely, although we preferred 2014.”

He added: “If it had been an exceptional wine in the vintage, the release price at £74 per bottle retail would have seemed pretty high, another 11% over the already quite expensive Pontet-Canet.”

Fellow Pauillac fifth growth, Pontet-Canet, however was scored 94-96 by Neal Martin – could it prove a better buy for the price?

Corney & Barrow’s Will Hargrove told db he expected Lynch would, “do ‘ok’ but no more than that – those that always buy Lynch may well buy a case but I do not envisage people ploughing in ‘willy-nilly’.”

Someone else expecting sales was BBR’s Max Lalondrelle who pointed out that Lynch was one of the labels that tended to sell out.

He said: “most importantly it will sell out, like the 2012, 2013, 2014 have and therefore is the cheapest you will be able to buy Lynch-Bages at, which is the whole point of en primeur in the first place!”

It is also a label that holds its value rather well in the secondary market.

Finally, Giles Cooper at BI said: “There’s no question it’s right at the top of our expectations – the upper limit of our pre-order spread was £900. That said it’s an excellent Lynch and it’s finding interest with our customers.”

Looking at other releases so far today, Cooper added: “Le Gay is a pretty exciting release too, with a compelling discount versus the 2010/2009/2005 trio – and it’s a gorgeous wine, most importantly.

“As a team we were pretty blown away by its elegance and finesse and given its consistency over the past decade or so, it’s a wine we are selling with great confidence.”