RETAIL: PROFILE – New in store

New York’s famous Astor Wines & Spirits has opened an impressive new centre promising genuine retail innovation. By Clint Rodenberg

Astor Wine and Spirits has been an institution in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village since 1968 when it was founded by Edwin Fisher. Fisher, well known in the US wine and spirits trade for the chain of liquor stores he started after World War II in New Jersey, was followed into the business by his son, Andy, the current president and resident dynamo. Both father and son have long been active in the development of now “hot” and fashionable NOHO (North of Houston Street), where the store is located. An area once charitably described as bohemian now boasts multi-million dollar condominiums, trendy restaurants and shops.

The new facility is in the family-owned and handsomely restored De Vinne Press building. Built in 1886 by prominent businessman Theodore De Vinne to house his printing company, the building is a wonderful example of Romanesque Revival architecture with high, barrel vaulted ceilings and intricate masonry. The Fishers acquired the landmark status building in 1984. The 11,000 square foot store is located on the ground floor, making it one of New York’s largest wine stores, and in some respects, the most unusual.

Buyers’ market
Astor’s wine buyers’ preferences (and vigilance for value) take precedence over wine writer reviews and sales volumes when it comes to allocating display space. For example, vodka brands – which sell almost 50 million cases in the United States – are allotted two shelf sections, while minimally selling sakes are given five.

Astor stocks almost 200 artisan sakes that are both stored and displayed at 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 degrees Celsius) to preserve their delicacy. Customers come from all over the tri-state area to study and buy what is likely the best selection outside of Tokyo.

Organic, biodynamic and natural wines also receive a disproportionate amount of display space not only because they are becoming more popular but because the store’s buyers admire the winemakers’ goal of producing the purest possible expression of grapes, vintage and soil with the least amount of interference.

Adjacent to the main selling floor is a glass enclosed “cool room”, where wines that would benefit from cooler conditions are maintained at 57 degrees Fahrenheit (14 degrees Celsius). Lest you think this area is only for rare, expensive wines, you will quickly discover a non vintage biodynamic wine at $9.99 (£4.80), though it is shelved not too far from famed Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon (1998 Vintage) at $2,500 (£1,203). Which wines make the cut for this special handling is solely the decision of the store’s wine buyers.

Maintaining these temperature-controlled spaces requires a lot of expensive electricity that Andy Fisher found contrary to his own green, environmental leanings and his desire to keep operating costs under control. As a result, Astor has installed two clean burning, natural gas powered micro-turbines to make and recycle its own electricity, which, at the writing of this article, were only awaiting city approval to be activated. This innovation, plus the use of Green Seal approved paper products, environmentally friendly cleansers and electric hand dryers, has given rise to the store’s claim to be “the greenest wine store in the world”.

Astor also offers a great way to try a range of inexpensive wines with its monthly “Top 10 Under $10”, a case of 10 of the “most delicious wine values” plus a free extra bottle of two of the wines. In November the 12-pack included a Barbera from Lombardy, a cava from Penedès and a delicious dry, white blend from Uruguay, and was available for $79.99.

Place of learning
The main selling floor has a spacious area for tastings, where weeknights from 6 to 8pm and on weekends from 3 to 5pm (Astor is open seven days a week), suppliers and the knowledgeable staff showcase different regions and products. Tasting events in November include German Rieslings, Aquavit cocktails and classic French wines. There’s an added customer incentive of a discount on any of the products purchased the day of the tasting.

While all these features and attention to detail would make Astor Wines a must-visit, what will really set the store apart is an expansive, new facility called the Astor Center, that will open in early 2008. Located on the first floor of the De Vinne building, directly above the store, the centre’s three distinct spaces offer an integrated cultural space for wine and food education.
The Study is a 1,290 square foot classroom with seating for 36 and a demonstration kitchen equipped with ranges, dual convection oven and refrigeration. The audio-visual setup includes built-in cameras to record events or stream video, three 50-inch plasma screens to display live shots or pre-recorded material and a wireless audience response system. Additional resources include individual light boxes for the evaluation of wine colour and depth and flush sinks at each station. The facility, to be used for lectures, cooking demonstrations and tutored wine tastings was designed in partnership with the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (CIA) that will also utilise the facility to offer ongoing programming for both enthusiasts and professionals.

Adjacent is the windowed, brick-walled Gallery, with a capacity for 135 standing or 90 seated, which will host receptions, walk-around tastings and sit-down dinners.

he Kitchen, patterned after the educational kitchens of the CIA, can accommodate working classes for 16 and demonstrations for 25. Audio-visual equipment including three built-in cameras will permit events to be recorded or streamed live to the other rooms or any remote location. Additionally the facility can serve as a production kitchen for special events at the Astor Center.

The Astor Center will begin offering educational programming in wine and food in January for all levels of interest and expertise, including introductory wines classes, vertical tastings of grand cru Burgundies, cooking demonstrations and hands-on cooking classes.

Andy Fisher believes Astor Center is “the next step in our lifelong commitment to expand the accessibility of wine and food to beginners, connoisseurs and experts in an atmosphere that complements the full range of the educational experience”.

Customers have long liked Astor’s extensive, value-oriented selection and friendly atmosphere. It’s constantly said that food and wine go hand in hand and the innovative new Astor Center certainly takes this proposition to an advanced level and will no doubt make Astor and the Astor Center at 399 Lafayette Street a destination address for food and wine aficionados throughout the city.

© db December 2007