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Will crus unlock Oltrepò Pavese’s full potential?

23 July 2026 By Michael Huband

Oltrepò Pavese is well-known as a stronghold of Italian Pinot Nero, particularly for traditional method sparkling wines. At Conte Vistarino, however, single-vineyard wines are demonstrating that the region’s prestige can also extend to still expressions.

*The historic Villa Fornace at the heart of the Conte Vistarino estate.*

Even in Italy, where wine estates often measure their history in generations, Conte Vistarino can claim a remarkable legacy. In 1850, Count Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino introduced Pinot Nero to Oltrepò Pavese, importing the vines directly from Burgundy.

Today, Pinot Nero is one of the region’s defining grapes. At the time, however, planting it among the hills of Rocca de’ Giorgi was a bold and farsighted decision.

The French influence was also reflected in the estate’s approach to sparkling wine. Working alongside his friend Carlo Gancia, Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino helped pioneer the production of traditional method sparkling wines in Italy, producing the estate’s first in 1865. That vision established a tradition of Pinot Nero excellence that has endured for more than 175 years and is now carried forward by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino.

“Our history is not something we simply preserve; it is a responsibility that encourages us to keep moving forward,” says Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino. “Pinot Nero has shaped the identity of our family and our estate for generations. Today, our task is to reveal its most authentic expressions, allowing each vineyard to speak with its own voice.”

Indeed, despite drawing on almost two centuries of experience, Conte Vistarino continues to explore new ways of expressing this famously demanding variety.

Maximising Pinot Nero’s potential

Pinot Nero is the cornerstone of Conte Vistarino’s production. Of the estate’s 102 hectares under vine, 65 are dedicated to the variety, which plays a leading role across both its sparkling and still wines.

Yet the vineyards represent only a small part of the property. Extending across much of the municipality of Rocca de’ Giorgi, the estate covers 826ha, creating a largely unbroken natural environment around the vines.

While many wine producers are now investing in rewilding and biodiversity, at Conte Vistarino they have long been part of the estate’s identity. Around 300ha are covered by woodland, providing a habitat for native wildlife including deer, wolves and pheasants. This ecological richness is complemented by a measured approach to farming: chemical fertilisers and intensive cultivation are avoided, with the emphasis placed on maintaining soil vitality and the long-term balance of the vineyards.

These conditions support viticulture in general, but they are particularly valuable for Pinot Nero. Conte Vistarino’s vineyards lie across a series of hills shaped by streams and small rivers. The interplay of elevation, exposure and natural ventilation helps preserve freshness and aromatic precision, while the diversity of the sites allows the grape to express both delicacy and depth.

The same care continues in the winery. A major redevelopment completed in 2017 introduced state-of-the-art technology, including a gravity-flow system designed to minimise intervention and protect the integrity of the fruit. Whether destined for a still or sparkling wine, the grapes are handled with the aim of preserving elegance, clarity and a sense of origin.

*The new winery allows bespoke vinification on a cru-by-cru basis.*

A site-by-site approach

Few grape varieties are as sensitive to terroir as Pinot Nero. Burgundy, its historic homeland and enduring benchmark, has built its reputation on the ability of the variety to translate even subtle differences between neighbouring vineyards into the glass.

One of Conte Vistarino’s most significant developments has therefore been its commitment to site-specific winemaking across its crus. Led by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, the cru project began by identifying the individual vineyards best suited to producing still Pinot Nero of distinctive character and longevity. Its success is now inspiring the estate to extend the same philosophy to its traditional-method sparkling wines.

“The crus allow us to move beyond a general idea of Oltrepò Pavese and show the extraordinary diversity that exists within it,” says Lino Scaravonati, general manager of Conte Vistarino.

“The region’s future reputation will depend on its ability to make this diversity clear and recognisable. Single-vineyard wines give us the language to communicate origin, identity and value, positioning Oltrepò Pavese among the world’s most compelling territories for Pinot Nero.”

The sites share certain characteristics: hillside positions, complex soils and relatively small vineyard areas. They have also been planted with Burgundian clones selected for their ability to respond to the conditions of Rocca de’ Giorgi. Yet each cru reveals a markedly different personality.

*Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino has pioneered the cru project.*

Costa del Nero covers six hectares close to the top of its hill. Its southern exposure encourages full ripening, producing a generous, fruit-driven Pinot Nero with subtle notes of oak.

Tavernetto is a two-hectare vineyard situated at around 300 metres above sea level. Its protected position receives less rainfall than other parts of the estate, contributing to a wine with greater concentration, a fuller body and a distinctive spicy finish.

Bertone, covering 1.57 hectares, is similarly sheltered but lies higher, at approximately 400 metres. Its elevation brings freshness and precision, while velvety tannins and fine acidity give the wine notable ageing potential.

Pernice was the first of Conte Vistarino’s crus to be developed. Situated at around 250 metres and facing southeast, its soils combine calcareous clay, sand and silt. Despite the apparent harmony of its growing conditions, the resulting wine has an assertive, unconventional personality: energetic, forthright and unmistakably individual.

Together, these wines make a persuasive case not only for the quality of Oltrepò Pavese, but also for its remarkable internal diversity.

Their credentials have been reinforced over the years by consistent recognition from leading Italian and international critics that reflect not the success of a single vintage, but the growing maturity and consistency of Conte Vistarino’s crus.

That reputation was further strengthened at this year’s Global Pinot Noir Masters, where all four wines received Silver medals – an impressive collective result that confirms the strength of the range and its ability to stand alongside internationally recognised expressions of Pinot Noir.

This long-term vision also lies behind Réserve des Amis, Conte Vistarino’s most exclusive cru project. Conceived as a collection of carefully selected vintages of Pernice, Bertone and Tavernetto, each presented in a limited-edition case signed by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, the project explores the ageing potential of the estate’s single-vineyard Pinot Nero wines.

Through the dialogue between different crus and vintages, Réserve des Amis reveals how each site evolves over time while retaining its distinctive identity. It is both a celebration of the maturity achieved by the cru project and a statement of confidence in the longevity of Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero.

For an estate with more than 175 years of history, these achievements are both a tribute to its legacy and evidence of its determination to evolve. If Oltrepò Pavese is to strengthen its international reputation as a great territory for Pinot Nero, its crus may well provide the clearest and most compelling path forward.

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