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Masterclass demonstrates perennial appeal of Côtes du Rhône

17 December 2024 By Michael Huband

Côtes du Rhône wines have all of the ingredients for broad market appeal, as a recent London tasting demonstrated.

Certain characteristics – foremost quality and value – are always a consideration when choosing a wine for a business. Others, however, such as heritage, family ownership, local varieties and sustainability, are secondary, but can still add immense value. As more buyers are realising, one region that aims to tick each of those boxes and achieve broad appeal is AOC Côtes du Rhône.

The appellation, although technically also covering the Northern Rhône, is overwhelmingly based in the Southern Rhône, where history, indigenous grape varieties and a favourable climate help it to meet all of these criteria. That, at least, was the case Matt Walls made when hosting a recent masterclass, touring the AOC through eight of its sub-£25 wines.

The benefit of history

The sense of history, whether looking at a regional level or examining individual producers, is powerful in the Southern Rhône. Viticulture stretches back millennia; under the reliably hot Mediterranean sun, Romans were able to plant vines in the region more than 2,000 years ago.

Many individual estates also have long histories. Some of those producing Côtes du Rhône wines can trace their wineries, sometimes remaining in the ownership of the same family for generations, back centuries. This has appeal to the consumer, offering the assurance of heritage and family values, but also helps the wines stick to a keen price point. In longstanding wineries, many loans for land or equipment will have been paid off, eliminating a cost for the producer.

The region’s long history also means its quality systems are well-established and well-regarded. The foundation of the quality pyramid is AOC Côtes du Rhône.

Of all the AOC wines produced in the Rhône Valley, 44% are bottled under that appellation. That does not mean it is generic, however. “A common misconception,” explained Walls, “is that this is all blended from vineyards across the region, but they can be single-vineyard wines too.” The masterclass showcased examples of both.

Above Côtes du Rhône comes AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages, with slightly more stringent rules of production. There are then Côtes du Rhône Villages with geographic names: 21 named villages can feature on labels, such as AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet.

At the top level of the pyramid are the crus. These feature iconic names such as Hermitage and Gigondas, but the classification has evolved over the years. The latest named village to be promoted to cru status was Laudun, only months ago, on 11 September 2024.

Heritage grapes

Côtes du Rhône wines are unusually permissive when it comes to grape varieties. There are two fundamental rules for reds: Grenache must be prominent in the blend, and Syrah and/or Mourvèdre are also a legal requirement. The blend of the three is therefore a central part of the appellation’s identity.

Beyond the leading trio, however, there are a further 20 local grapes that can lend appeal to a Côtes du Rhône blend. Similarly, Côtes du Rhône Villages (and above in the hierarchy) allows 17 local grapes (the crossings Marselan, Caladoc and Couston are not permitted).

These offer a distinctly regional flavour, as opposed to widespread international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Walls was keen to highlight the importance of local grapes, particularly as some of them are making a comeback. He singled out Cinsault and Counoise for their medium body and fresh, attractive aromatics (floral and spicy respectively). Crucially, he said, both ripen at relatively low alcohol levels, making them useful in a blend.

For Côtes du Rhône white wines, even if they fly under the radar compared to reds, fashions in varieties are changing. Clairette, for instance, is gaining fans over Roussanne, thanks to its better adaptation to a hot, dry climate. Bourboulenc, meanwhile, is prized for its acidity, and Clairette Rose offers a distinct perfume.

Going green

Sustainability has steadily grown as a selling-point for wines, and the Southern Rhône is well placed to take advantage. The hot, dry climate and the drying north wind (known as the Mistral) substantially lessen disease pressure, making it a relatively easy region to farm organically.

That is reflected in the statistics. Of the 2023 harvest, 19% of Côtes du Rhône wine was certified organic; in Côtes du Rhône Villages, it was 25%. Even more was certified HVE (High Environmental Value), a government-backed scheme to recognise green practices. A further 33% of the harvest was certified HVE for Côtes du Rhône, and 37% for Côtes du Rhône Villages. These figures rang true in the tasting, where six of the wines were certified organic or biodynamic, while one was in conversion.

Matt Walls’ Côtes du Rhône picks

M Chapoutier Adunatio 2023
AOC Côtes du Rhône
“Fresh and floral, with impressive length – a classic white Côtes du Rhône.”

Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle 45 2023
AOC Côtes du Rhône
“A more floral style, thanks to a majority of Viognier in the blend.”

Demoiselle Suzette Frisson Intense 2023
AOC Côtes du Rhône
“A bracing blend of 70% Viognier and 30% Grenache Blanc, with startling freshness.”

Domaine des Carabiniers 2022
AOC Côtes du Rhône
“A very drinkable style, with brisk acidity and crisp tannins.”

Domaine de Fontbonau 2022
AOC Côtes du Rhône
“Very fresh and appealing, bursting with forest fruits and rosemary.”

Pascal Chalon La Grande Ourse 2022
AOC Côtes du Rhône Suze-la-Rousse
“A full, ripe blend of four grapes. Powerful, fresh and food-friendly.”

Vignoble Simian Jocundaz 2021
AOC Côtes du Rhône Massif d’Uchaux
“An impressively balanced wine, with defined violet, thyme and raspberry flavours.”

Vignoble Anne Collard L’Aube 2020
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages
“Drinking beautifully now, a harmonious and well-balanced wine with depth and purity.”

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