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All the medallists from the Global Riesling Masters 2023
At times criminally under-appreciated and unloved, Riesling makes wines of great quality and character all over the world, as Patricia Stefanowicz MW discovers.
Riesling, the darling of wine professionals, has been undervalued and under-appreciated by wine consumers during a period when full body and oak are hallmarks for crowd-pleasing offerings. Riesling does not like new oak, and tends to have moderate alcohol.
Another mark against Riesling is that the wines often have some sweetness… very unfashionable. However, this under-recognised grape should be reconsidered, as the high percentage of wines awarded Silver, Gold and Master medals in our 2023 Global Riesling Masters suggests. The judges found great wines in a wide variety of styles and at all price points.
Although not the oldest documented variety in its homeland of Germany and Alsace, Riesling was first mentioned on an invoice dated 1435 from a castle in the southeast of the Rheingau. Widely cultivated in the Mosel and the Rhine from the middle of the 16th century, German Riesling was highly prized in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and prices then matched (or exceeded) those of the great red wines of Bordeaux and Bourgogne. Connoisseurs recognise that, due to the combination of high acidity and high extract, these wines can develop in bottle for decades, regardless of levels of sweetness and alcoholic strength.
Under the influence of Germany’s viticultural researchers at Geisenheim and the specialist centre at Trier, German growers can choose from more than 60 different clones. In nearby Alsace, most of the wines are dry and full-bodied, although in some years Alsace’s dry climate allows extended ripening for medium-sweet vendage tardive, or the sweeter Sélection de Grains Nobles. In Germany, almost all the growers in the Rhine regions and the Mosel are dedicated to Riesling for their top age-worthy wines. In contrast to wines from the Alsace, German Rieslings vary from bone-dry Grosses Gewächs with 13.5% alcohol to delicate, late-harvest medium-sweet or sweet wines with a mere 7-8% ABV and gentle apple, apricot and orange marmalade flavours.
Nearby Austria produces aromatic, full-bodied, dry Rieslings, and the best wines we judged came from the Wachau and Kremstal in Neiderösterreich, showing orange blossom, acacia honey and peach fruit. Steiermark in southeastern Austria is another region to search out for expressive Rieslings. Unsurprisingly, Czechia, Slovakia, Slovenia and its next-door neighbour, Friuli in northeastern Italy, also produce attractive Rieslings, and there are plantings in Alto Adige, Hungary, Moldova and Bulgaria.
Courtesy of the influx of Silesians during the 19th century, Riesling was for a long time the most planted white variety in Australia, although it was surpassed by the ubiquitous Chardonnay around 1990. Nowadays, the plantings are focused in areas well-recognised for making world-class Rieslings: Eden and Clare Valleys, Tasmania and Great Southern. From the samples we saw this year, the style is both consistent and consistently delicious: bone-dry wines exhibiting minerality and racy acidity, supporting tangy, lemon-lime fruit. Orlando, Pikes and Gatt showed particularly well in our tasting.
Riesling is grown in the Americas, South and North. Chile’s Viña San Pedro definitely won kudos for value for money when awarded a Gold for its 9 Lives Riesling, priced at only £9. In North America, delicious, often off-dry Rieslings are produced in Washington State and Oregon, and in the Finger Lakes area in upstate New York. Across the border in Canada, especially in Ontario, fine, delicate ice wines are made. Two different styles of ice wine: Peller with a little botrytis, Trius without, excited the judges and formed a delightful coda to our judging day.
There were some very nice wines from unexpected sources. Arba Wine from Kazakhstan provided a couple of interesting wines, one an oaked version with excellent expression and balance. The judges unanimously agreed that Riesling is unjustly snubbed. Relatively light and certainly elegant, showing texture and with bracing acidity often balanced by sweetness and, occasionally, gentle creamy wood, these wines are perfect as aperitifs, accompanied by cheese, or by a diverse range of savoury or sweet dishes.
Sparkling Medium Dry (up to 12g/l)
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
£20-£30 | |||||
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Sparkling Riesling | Beamsville Bench | Canada | NV | Bronze |
Still Dry (up to 4g/l)
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
Under £10 | |||||
Viña San Pedro | 9 Lives Inspiring Reserve | Central Valley | Chile | 2022 | Gold |
Jacob’s Creek | Classic Riesling | Australia | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
£10-£15 | |||||
Bestheim | Riesling des Chasseurs de Lune | Alsace | France | 2019 | Silver |
Wakefield/Taylors Wines | Estate Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
£15-£20 | |||||
Gatt Wines | High Eden Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2015 | Gold |
Gatt Wines | Eden Springs High Eden Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2015 | Gold |
St Hugo | Eden Valley Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2022 | Silver |
St Hugo | Eden Valley Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
Krispel | Welschriesling Ried Stradener Rosenberg Vulkanland Styria DAC | Vulkanland Styria | Austria | 2020 | Silver |
Wakefield/Taylors Wines | Reserve Parcel Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
Gatt Wines | High Eden Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2021 | Silver |
Gatt Wines | Eden Springs High Eden Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2021 | Silver |
Englar Castle | Riesling | South Tyrol | Italy | 2022 | Silver |
Chateau Amsterdam | The Most Beautiful Girl Riesling | Pfalz | Germany | 2022 | Bronze |
£20-£30 | |||||
Orlando Wines | Steingarten Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2021 | Gold |
Weingut Dreissiagacker | Vintages | Rheinhessen | Germany | 2017, 18,19,20 | Gold |
Pikes Vintners | Pikes The Merle Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2022 | Gold |
Wakefield/Taylors Wines | St Andrews Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
Orlando Wines | Steingarten Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2020 | Silver |
Orlando Wines | Steingarten Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2022 | Silver |
Orlando Wines | Steingarten Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
£30-£50 | |||||
Domäne Wachau | Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten | Wachau | Austria | 2021 | Gold |
Domäne Wachau | Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten | Wachau | Austria | 2022 | Gold |
Arba Wine | Ak Arba Riesling Reserve | Almaty region | Kazakhstan | 2016 | Silver |
Still Medium Dry (up to 12g/l)
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
Under £10 | |||||
Mayr | Riesling Ried Hollensteiner Hirtental | Niederösterreich | Austria | 2022 | Gold |
Schneeberger | Riesling Kitzeck-Sausal | Südsteiermark | Austria | 2022 | Silver |
£10-£15 | |||||
Müller | Riesling Ried Leiten | Kremstal | Austria | 2021 | Gold |
Lawson’s Dry Hills | Riesling | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2018 | Gold |
Marisco Vineyards | Leefield Station Ridgeline | Marlborough | New Zealand | 2023 | Silver |
Cantina La-Vis | Riesling Classici | Trentino | Italy | 2022 | Silver |
Arba Wine | Ak Arba Kazakh Riesling | Almaty | Kazakhstan | 2016 | Bronze |
Arba Wine | Ak Arba Riesling | Almaty | Kazakhstan | 2016 | Bronze |
£15-£20 | |||||
Pikes Vintners | Pikes Hills and Valleys Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2023 | Master |
Pikes Vintners | Pikes Traditionale Riesling | Clare Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
Dr H Thanisch Erben | Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Großes Gewächs Müller-Burggraef | Mosel | Germany | 2021 | Silver |
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Small Lot Riesling Steel Post Vineyard | Beamsville Bench | Canada | 2020 | Silver |
£20-£30 | |||||
Nigl | Riesling Ried Kremser Goldberg | Kremstal | Austria | 2021 | Master |
De Bortoli Wines | La Bohème Act 1 Riesling | Yarra Valley | Australia | 2021 | Silver |
Langmeil Winery | Wattle Brae Eden Valley Riesling | Eden Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
Bestheim | Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg | Alsace | France | 2021 | Silver |
£30-£50 | |||||
Bodega Puerta del Abra | Insolitó Riesling | Balcarce | Argentina | 2020 | Silver |
Bodega Puerta del Abra | Insolitó Riesling | Balcarce | Argentina | 2021 | Bronze |
Still Medium (up to 45g/l)
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
Under £10 | |||||
Ruppertsberger Weinkeller | Riesling Ruppertsberger Hofstück | Pfalz | Germany | 2022 | Silver |
Mayr | Ah Wie Nett | Weinland | Austria | 2022 | Bronze |
£10-£15 | |||||
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Winemaker’s Blend Riesling | Beamsville Bench | Canada | 2022 | Silver |
Langmeil Winery | Live Wire Riesling | Barossa Valley | Australia | 2023 | Silver |
£15-£20 | |||||
Peller Estates | Signature Series Riesling | Four Mile Creek | Canada | 2021 | Gold |
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Small Lot Riesling Wild Cask | Beamsville Bench | Canada | 2020 | Gold |
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard | Beamsville Bench | Canada | 2020 | Silver |
Thirty Bench Wine Makers | Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard | Beamsville Bench | Canada | 2021 | Silver |
Trius | Showcase Riesling Ghost Creek | Four Mile Creek | Canada | 2021 | Silver |
£20-£30 | |||||
Brooks Wine | Bois Joli Riesling | Eola-Amity Hills | USA | 2021 | Gold |
Still Sweet (45g/l+)
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
£15-£20 | |||||
Dr H Thanisch Erben | Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett Müller-Burggraef | Mosel | Germany | 2022 | Silver |
£30-£50 | |||||
Joannes Protner | Renski Rizling Sladko | Stajerska | Slovenia | 2017 | Gold |
Icewine
Winery | Name of wine | Region | Country | Vint. | Medal |
£50-£70 | |||||
Peller Estates | Icewine Riesling | Niagara Peninsula | Canada | 2022 | Master |
Trius | Showcase Riesling Icewine | Niagara Peninsula | Canada | 2019 | Gold |
About the competition
With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Global Riesling Masters provides a chance for your wines to star. The 2023 competition was judged on 8 November at 35 New Cavendish in London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Riesling Master. This report features the medal winners only.
Please visit the Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com
Across the Tasman Sea, there are off-dry Rieslings, exhibiting apricot, orange blossom and honey, produced in New Zealand, especially in Marlborough and Waipara on the South Island, and we judged a few of those in 2023.