Awards success indicates a global appetite for Montefalco wines

Montefalco achieved several medals in db‘s Autumn Tasting 2023, highlighting the quality available from the under-the-radar region.

Perched on an oh-so-Italian hilltop in the landlocked region of Umbria, the town of Montefalco is a slice of countryside charm. The region is known for its game, olives and truffles, classic products exported the world over. However, with both Rome and Siena around two hours’ drive away, it is frequently overlooked by visitors.

Umbria’s wines have a similar story. While the famous wineries of neighbouring Tuscany produced around 23,000 hectolitres of wine in 2022, in Umbria production was just 4,000hl. Consorzio Montefalco, however, is steadily promoting the region as a below-the-radar appellation for characterful, sustainable wines.

The appeal of Montefalco is particularly demonstrated in its two styles of red wines (though there are also exemplary whites made with Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto). Accommodating Italy’s most planted variety, the Montefalco Rosso DOC mandates that 60-70% of the blend must be Sangiovese. The remaining blend allows for local and international grapes, while creating a style similar to many popular Italian exports.

In this first category, both young wines and riservas show off Sangiovese’s natural cherry fruit and mouthwatering qualities. The hillsides, situated between 220 and 472 metres altitude, are well suited for grape growing, avoiding the overripe excesses that central Italian heat can bring. Merlot, a popular blending partner, brings plush red fruit to round the popular wines’ profiles, while local varieties may add heft.

However, one speciality grape has its own chance at the spotlight. Sagrantino, the area’s trademark red grape, has a dedicated appellation, Montefalco Sangrantino DOCG. This grape, grown for generations was almost extinct by the 1960s, used mostly for sweet wines as its high levels of tannin threw it out of fashion.

Local winemakers, however, saw its potential, focusing on the indigenous grape and campaigning for the DOC status it achieved in 1977 (the DOCG followed in 1992). The close knit community believed that the grape could offer a unique Umbrian wine, whose thick, uncompromising skins could be an asset rather than a hindrance.

The very regulations of the DOCG require ageing in oak, a choice that helps soften and integrate the tannins. There has also been a marked push towards bottle ageing these wines, establishing the denomination as a style that can rival Barolo and Brunello. Unapologetically working with the grape’s tannins has also ensured a focus on terroir. As a land of rolling hills, the correct site can accentuate the intended flavour profile and tannic structure.

Having revived the fortunes of its red wines, Consorzio Montefalco has ambitious plans to promote the region overall. The region’s many varied terroirs, often dominated by calcareous clay with patches of limestone, are ideally suited to Trebbiano Spoletino, whose wines are increasingly exported. The grape is truly embedded in the region; it is not uncommon in its Spoleto DOC to see old, ungrafted vines bound to trees in residents’ gardens. It is more and more common to see the wines on international markets, too.

With plans to increase sustainable tourism – it has notably provided electric cars and bicycles for consumers to tour wineries – and promote the wines on the global stage, Consorizio Montefalco is driving its business far beyond the heart of Italy.

Several Montefalco wines won medals at the drinks business Autumn Tasting 2023. A selection is provided below, with tasting notes from the judges.

Tenuta Alzatura Montefalco Sagrantino

• Producer: Tenuta Alzatura
• Region: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
• Vintage: 2017
• Grape varieties: 100% Sagrantino
• ABV: 16.5%
• Approx. retail price: £15
• Medal: Gold

Deep ruby-garnet in colour, the wine exudes Victoria plums, brambles, and ripe apricots with earthy, dark chocolate notes. Sweet-fruited, the palate is full-bodied and very spicy with crisp acidity, dense mouth-filling tannins and good length. The wine is powerful, calling out for venison marinated in red wine, garlic and cardamom, then seared rare.

Bocale Montefalco Rosso

• Producer: Azienda Agricola Bocale di Valentini
• Region: Montefalco Rosso DOC
• Vintage: 2020
• Grape varieties: 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 10% Merlot and 5% Colorino
• ABV: 14.5%
• Approx. retail price: £20
• Medal: Gold

There’s a really appealing aroma to this cherry-red wine – dark, spicy berry fruit, pretty and promising. It delivers beautifully on this promise on the palate – juicy fruit and some attractive spice. Balanced and refreshing, it is also long, with layers and enticing complexity. Although ripe, it is not at all overcooked, and really enjoyable. Perfect with a meaty pasta sauce, or a risotto Milanese, where its richness and acid will bring the perfect liveliness.

Montefalco Sagrantino “Il Domenicale’”

• Producer: Il Gheppio
• Region: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
• Vintage: 2015
• Grape varieties: 100% Sagrantino
• ABV: 16.5%
• Approx. retail price: £55
• Medal: Silver

A deep garnet wine with plenty of aromatic depth: rose petals, blackcurrant, and earthy, smoky tones. The palate is dry and sweet-fruited, but with oak inflected vanilla and coconut, alongside zippy acidity. A lingering, interesting wine.

Montefalco Sagrantino “Collepiano”

• Producer: Arnaldo Caprai
• Region: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
• Vintage: 2019
• Grape varieties: 100% Sagrantino
• ABV: 15.5%
• Approx. retail price: £42
• Medal: Silver

Garnet coloured and showing dried fruits, blackberry and vanilla buttercream on the nose. Sweet, dark fruit on the palate – brambles, blueberries, morello cherries – and also butterscotch and vanilla. The structure leans into dense grippy tannins, balanced by acidity, with a very spicy finish.

Montefalco Sagrantino “Chiusa di Pannone”

• Producer: Antonelli
• Region: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
• Vintage: 2018
• Grape varieties: 100% Sagrantino
• ABV: 15%
• Approx. retail price: £60
• Medal: Silver

A deep ruby wine, scented of dark chocolate, blackberry and kitchen baking spices. This is rich and full bodied, with black pepper, black fruits and a touch of balsamic against corduroy tannins and warm alcohol.

Montefalco Sagrantino “Carapace”

• Producer: Lunelli – Tenuta Castelbuono
• Region: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
• Vintage: 2018
• Grape varieties: 100% Sagrantino
• ABV: 15%
• Approx. retail price: £30
• Medal: Silver

A youthful wine, full of dark berries on the nose and a touch of coolness. The palate is fleshy and warm, full of sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, and well balanced oak aromas. A full bodied, ripe wine with good length and style.