Unfiltered: Julien Sarrasin

The head of wines at Hide tells Douglas Blyde how he didn’t like wine before he came to London…

Where were you born and what is your vintage?  

I was born in Pessac, a suburb of Bordeaux on 1st September 1990, just in time for harvest! 1990 was a great vintage overall from which Bordeaux drinks very well at the moment, including the sweet wines from Sauternes-Barsac, as well as Burgundy, the Rhône, Barolo, Australia and California.

What was the last wine to move you?  

The delicately textured, velvety Pinot Noirs from Rivers-Marie Vineyards, Sonoma Coast have been high up on the list of my recent discoveries.

What has been a particularly thought-provoking vineyard visit? 

I was lucky enough to harvest at the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne-Romanée. A true human experience and a real pleasure to pick grapes from some of the most prestigious vineyards in the world.

How did you come to work at Hide, and what keeps you there?  

I was looking for a new challenge and saw that there was a free spot at Hide to join the sommelier team. I contacted Piotr Pietras who was Director of Wine for Hide at the time. Although very professional, this gentleman was very welcoming and open and made me feel comfortable.

How does the environment of Hide enhance the enjoyment of wine?

The carefully designed interior makes it a very enjoyable space to evolve in. The cuisine of Ollie Dabbous is unique and really touches me; it is a great honour to be able to use our endless wine selection to meticulously pair with his dishes. Also, there is a good vibe amongst the staff and it is a pleasure to work here for that reason too.

Describe your approach to the list, including any standout collections and curios? 

Thankfully, our wine buying team at Hedonism Wines take care of the orders given the turnover of wine is huge. We are able to offer considerable depth in our range as a result, with a number of large formats and older vintages at attractive prices.

If a guest requests a bottle from Hedonism’s stock, how long does it take to get it to their table?  

It really does depend on the traffic on Berkeley Square but we advise the guest that it might take up to 15 minutes though in most cases it is closer to 10.

What has been a standout collaborative pairing?

I have to say the emblematic nest egg, being a gently cooked egg emulsified with smoked butter, parsley and sautéed mushrooms. A smoky, satisfying, rich, indulgent dish which I love to associate with an orange wine. The clash between the ripe fruit profile of the wine and the earthiness and smokiness of the dish combined with the wine’s astringency and tartness cuts through the rich texture of the dish and rinses the palate nicely, giving a beautiful harmony and balance.

What style of wine/grape might not work with head chef, Ollie Dabbous’ cuisine?  

All Ollie’s dishes or subtle, elegant, and refined. I tend to avoid heavy tannins and bold wines. Otherwise, I would say that there isn’t any profile to avoid overall. I read the dish, taste it and start to imagine flavours and texture in wines that I have tasted that could marry it well.

What do co-owners, Tatiana Fokina and Evgeny Chichvarkin enjoy drinking?  

Tatiana enjoys aged Champagne from the 1950s onwards including Henri Giraud “Argonne”, Bollinger “RD”, Perrier-Jouët “Belle Époque” and Charles Heidsieck. Evgeny also likes old Champagne, as well as white Burgundy. He is also adventurous when it comes to half bottles of old reds such as the excellent Château Libertas 1970 from Stellenbosch which was in pristine condition.

Describe the setting?

There is a bright energy circulating at Hide. The floor and staircase are made from a 300-year-old Polish oak tree. Modern yet cosy, it is an avant-garde restaurant without tablecloths. The playlist is dynamic and vibrant giving a positive atmosphere.

What is your favourite digestif?  

Green Chatreuse – but it can be vicious. Stick to a couple. I also love Armagnac. I must say that a well spiced Bloody Mary is also one of my favourite drinks. I used to work as a Bartender for nearly five years before becoming a sommelier.

How seriously do you take non-alcoholic drinks?  

With Oskar Kinberg, who has a similar sense of creativity to Ollie, we designed a non-alcoholic pairing for the tasting menu in Above at Hide, as well as providing mocktails, home-made juices and non-alcoholic sparkling rosé.

Where do you go on your days off?  

I love thrills and sports and go bouldering.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?  

Despite coming from Bordeaux, I didn’t like wine until I came to England. You’ll get back to your roots eventually!

What has been a memorable sale?

A table of 3 who, under my suggestion, decided to experience in a 50cl bottle, the very first vintage ever made by the iconic Screaming Eagle estate in Napa. A bottle which sold for £17.540.

Pudding or cheese? 

If a choice has to be made, cheese it will be. Tell me Comté, tell me Vin Jaune, and you have me.

Who do you want to join your team?  

Sparkling people with a shining personality and assiduity.

HIDE – 85 Piccadilly, London, W1J 7NB; 020 3146 8666; reservations@hide.co.uk; hide.co.uk