The best wines of Bordeaux 2017

Cheval Blanc

2016 release price: €552 p/b
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW: 93-95
Julia Harding MW: 17.5
James Suckling: 97-98
Neal Martin: 93-95

An interesting and rather conflicted wine would perhaps sum up Cheval Blanc 2017.

It’s scores are, fine, and much like Ausone its rank as a grand cru classé ‘A’ will mean its inclusion in the top 10 is no real surprise.

The divide among the critics is not huge but it exists with one half giving the wine very solid high marks and the others…pulling their punches somewhat.

By all accounts it’s one of the more ‘intriguing’ if not outright “fascinating” (according to Martin) wines of the vintage.

Of all the great estates and terroirs , Cheval Blanc was actually hit by frost and rather seriously. As much as 33% to 35% of potential production was lost in two nights and two thirds of the plantings affected in some way, cutting production of the grand vin vs 2016 by half.

As Martin notes, this has led to 2017 being something of a “remix” vintage with a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon than usual and rather less Cabernet Franc.

Depending on one’s preference this might make it something of a Marmite* wine and Martin for one is unconvinced.

It’s “cerebral” to taste he says but ultimately he misses the Cabernet Franc and this is reflected in his “cold-hearted” score – though 93-95 is still nothing to be sniffed at.

On the other hand, it’s perhaps the wine he thinks he’ll be most intrigued to return to in 10 or 20 years.

 

*A powerful, tangy, yeast-based spread that is simultaneously adored and reviled in the UK. Superior to Vegemite.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Subscribe to our newsletters

Brand Manager

Hatch Mansfield
Ascot, Berkshire

Southern Regional Account Manager

Speciality Drinks
England, UK

Northern Regional Account Manager

Speciality Drinks
England, UK

Fine Wine Buyer

FINE+RARE Ltd
London, UK

Awards Sales Executive – France

Decanter
London, UK

Sales Executive / Brand Ambassador

Elixir Distillers
London, UK

Brand Development Executive

Elixir Distillers
London, UK

Sales Administrator

Company details: Advised on application
London W1

London Account Manager

Speciality Drinks
London, UK

Sales Administrator Customer Service

Ellis Wines
Hanworth, Middx

Pink Rosé Festival

Cannes,France
7th Feb 2019

Wine Paris

Paris,France
11th Feb 2019

IBWSS UK

London,United Kingdom
11th Mar 2019
Click to view more

The Global Pinot Noir Masters 2019

Deadline : 7th January 2019

The Global Fortified Masters 2018

Deadline : 15th January 2019

Click to view more

Rioja Masters 2018

View Results

The Global Beer Competition

View Results

Click to view more