The best wines of Bordeaux 2017

Cheval Blanc

2016 release price: €552 p/b
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW: 93-95
Julia Harding MW: 17.5
James Suckling: 97-98
Neal Martin: 93-95

An interesting and rather conflicted wine would perhaps sum up Cheval Blanc 2017.

It’s scores are, fine, and much like Ausone its rank as a grand cru classé ‘A’ will mean its inclusion in the top 10 is no real surprise.

The divide among the critics is not huge but it exists with one half giving the wine very solid high marks and the others…pulling their punches somewhat.

By all accounts it’s one of the more ‘intriguing’ if not outright “fascinating” (according to Martin) wines of the vintage.

Of all the great estates and terroirs , Cheval Blanc was actually hit by frost and rather seriously. As much as 33% to 35% of potential production was lost in two nights and two thirds of the plantings affected in some way, cutting production of the grand vin vs 2016 by half.

As Martin notes, this has led to 2017 being something of a “remix” vintage with a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon than usual and rather less Cabernet Franc.

Depending on one’s preference this might make it something of a Marmite* wine and Martin for one is unconvinced.

It’s “cerebral” to taste he says but ultimately he misses the Cabernet Franc and this is reflected in his “cold-hearted” score – though 93-95 is still nothing to be sniffed at.

On the other hand, it’s perhaps the wine he thinks he’ll be most intrigued to return to in 10 or 20 years.

 

*A powerful, tangy, yeast-based spread that is simultaneously adored and reviled in the UK. Superior to Vegemite.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Subscribe to our newsletters

Sales Manager

The Drinks Business
London, UK

Buyer

Liberty Wines
London, UK

HR Co-ordinator

Liberty Wines
London, UK

Director of Sales

Gulf Brands International
Bahrain

Head of Trade Marketing

Lanson International UK Ltd
London W1

Customer Development Manager

Love Drinks
London, UK

Junior Brand Manager x2

Enotria&Coe
London, UK

Assistant Brand Manager

Swallow Associates Ltd
Kings Langley, UK

Brand Manager

Swallow Associates
Kings Langley, UK

Events Co-ordinator

Liberty Wines
London, UK

Champagne Masterclass

London,United Kingdom
10th Sep 2018

Cape Wine 2018

Cape Town,South Africa
12th Sep 2018

Bourgogne Masterclass

Brighton ,United Kingdom
18th Sep 2018
Click to view more

The Global Beer Competition

Deadline : 22nd August 2018

The Global Malbec Masters 2018

Deadline : 1st September 2018

Click to view more

The Global Malbec Masters 2017

the drinks business is proud to announce the inaugural Global Malbec Masters 2017

The Global Sparkling Masters 2017

the drinks business is thrilled to announce the launch of The Global Sparkling Masters.

Click to view more