The Dish: Kerth Gumbs

Having graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in 2003, Kerth cut his culinary teeth working for legendary restaurateur Sir Terence Conran, and went on to work with Tom Aikens, The Wolseley’s Chris Cobrin and Jeremy King, and was part of the opening team of L’Atelier Joël Robuchon. In 2011 he moved to Singapore to eat his way around Asia while working for Jason Atherton at his Esquina restaurant. He is currently head chef at Ormer on Half Moon Street in Mayfair.

What/who influenced your decision to become a chef?

My mum was a chef, so I grew up around her cooking and I always loved to see the happy faces and sounds of appreciation she got from the people she cooked for.

When I was in high school, we were asked to choose one of the following compulsory subjects when we reached fourth grade: auto mechanics, woodwork or food nutrition.

Auto mechanics and woodwork were dominated by boys banging, welding and sawing away at things, which didn’t appeal to me and I didn’t particularly like getting dirty either. I figured that if I chose food nutrition, at least I’d get to eat what I’d made!

Can you remember your first shift in a kitchen?

Yes, vividly. Looking at all the burning flames made me nervous. I also remember being sent to the fridge for chervil and couldn’t tell the difference between parsley, dill or any other herbs for that matter. I just bunched them all up together and brought them to the chef!

What’s your earliest wine memory?

I remember on a Sunday going to church and taking communion. I was given a small taste of Manischewitz wine with a communion wafer. The aroma lingered in my pharynx for ages, or at least it seemed to.

What has been your most memorable meal?

The Tippling Club in Singapore ticked a few boxes.

How important is wine to a meal, from a chef’s point of view?

In the same way we add different spices or seasoning to enhance a dish, wine gives that extra touch that can help to bring out more flavour or make a dish more appreciated.

What would be your ultimate food and wine pairing?

I am forever open to trying different pairings, however unusual, in the name of research, so I’m yet to pin point my ultimate food and wine pairing.

Who is your inspiration in the winemaking and gastronomic world and why?

I’m hugely inspired by the Pons family based in El Bages, near Lleida – in the region of Catalonia. They’ve been making wine and olive oil since 1945, so it has been in the hands of four generations of the Pons family. I love the attention they dedicate to these two produces, which without a doubt are the foundation of good cooking.

Biggest kitchen disaster?

Having to make a sauce where I needed to burn off some brandy – I poured in one full bottle and lit it on fire. It got sucked up into the air vents and travelled along the ceiling; it was like a volcano of flames flowing upwards, which was pretty scary.

Who is the most famous person you’ve cooked for?

I once cooked dinner at Princess Diana’s family home for Lord and Lady Spencer, with Tom Aikens and his team.

What advice would you give your younger self starting out as a chef?

Right from the get go, I just wanted to push on. So, I would say: go to bed earlier and get more rest. And eat out more often!

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?

I’d probably be a track and field athlete or a dancer.

Besides cooking, which talent would you most like to have?

I have always wanted to speak different languages and learn to play an instrument.

What would be your best piece of culinary advice for an aspiring home cook?

Be determined – have a strong mind and willing body – or a strong body and willing mind.

Surround yourself with positive people. It doesn’t necessarily have to be the best chef; it can be a team or leader who will help to bring out the best in you. Don’t hesitate to look over shoulders to learn as much as you can and whenever you can.

If you could only eat at one restaurant for the rest of your life, where would you choose?

It would probably not be a restaurant as such, but rather street food in Thailand. It is great, humble, tasty and affordable.

What else would you like to achieve in life?

A Michelin star is definitely on my list.

And finally, what is your life motto?

Human beings create life; food is the source that maintains it. One can’t do without the other.