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Riesling Masters 2015: the results

While the core aim of db’s Global Masters is to highlight what’s good, and above all, great value, the series of tastings throughout the year also reveals particular traits about the featured grapes. Whether its Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, a day spent sampling examples from around the world at a broad range of price points illustrates the full spectrum of styles, including the common flaws – one can learn much from the wines that don’t receive any medals.

The tastings also serve as a useful indicator of winemaking trends. In short, they provide a valuable exposé from which one can normally make some firm conclusions – for example, Pinot Noir is rarely appealing when its cheap, Sauvignon Blanc reaches its zenith when it’s seen some oak, and Chardonnay loves lees, particularly when they create a gently toasted reductive character, perhaps best portrayed in blanc de blancs Champagne.

So what did we learn after some eight hours spent tasting Riesling? Well, this variety is undoubtedly the most versatile of the noble grapes.

As the results show, Riesling can make very good sparkling, great dry whites, wonderful off-dry examples too, and outstanding botrytised sweets, along with incredible icewines. It can be appealing when it’s cheap, thrilling when it’s expensive, and offer impressive value for money between £10 and £20.Unlike many of our other tastings by grape, one doesn’t always need to go above £30 to find the most exciting examples.

Furthermore, it’s a grape that achieves all of this without the influence of oak. The sources of good examples are myriad, although certain regions do stand out as perfect for Riesling, with Germany’s Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz hitting the high points – as one would expect – although further areas of greatness included Australia’s Yarra, Clare and Eden Valleys, as well as the US’s Oregon and Washington States, and the Niagara Peninsula in Canada, not forgetting Spain’s Penedès – a surprise to the judges.

Neither Rieslings from Austria or Alsace were entered into the tasting, which explains their failure to feature among the medallists in this year’s report.

About the competition

In a crowded wine competition arena, The Drinks Business Global Riesling Masters stands out for its assessment of wines purely by grape variety rather than by region. Divided only by price bracket and, for ease of judging, whether the style was dry to sweet, the blind tasting format allowed wines to be assessed without prejudice about their country of origin. Wines were scored out of 100, with those gaining over 95 points being awarded the top title of Master. Those earning over 90 points were given a Gold, those over 85 points a Silver and those over 80 points a Bronze. The wines were judged by a cherrypicked group of Masters of Wine on 18 November at Trinity Restaurant in Clapham Old Town. This report features only the medal winners.

AUSSIES EXCEL

When it came to dry Rieslings under £20, Australia was dominant, and gaining the highest scores beneath £15 was Larry Cherubino’s Laissez Faire Riesling from Western Australia’s Porongurup, the only top medallist in the tasting from the western side of this country.

Moving over £15, Jacob’s Creek – like last year – wowed the tasting panel with its bone dry Steingarten Riesling from the Barossa, although examples from Taylor/Wakefield in Clare Valley did similarly well, as did a German dry Riesling from Philipp Bassler in the Pfalz – one of the country’s warmer regions. At higher prices, but staying with dry styles, it was Germany that dominated the top medals (aside from Australia’s Heirloom Riesling from the Eden Valley).

Weingut Schätzel Reinschiefer Riesling from the Rheinhessen was the only dry Riesling to gain the top title of Master, while Weingut Spiess, and Weingut Schnaitmann both earned golds from the Rheinhessen and Württemberg, respectively.

Moving into the medium-dry category, it was the Special Edition Riesling from the Pfalz produced by Reh Kendermann that took the only Gold under £10, although moving over £15, we uncovered a number of high scores from non-traditional sources of gently sweet Riesling. Among these were De Bortoli’s Single Vineyard A7 Riesling from the Yarra Valley as well as the Waltraud Riesling, from Penedès, which is made by Miguel Torres – a producer that does consistently well in our Masters series.

RIESLING SPECIALISTS
A further high performer in this category was Oregon’s Tunkalilla, a specialist Riesling vineyard in the Willamette Valley’s Eola Hills, planted by famous and respected Australian winemaker, Brian Croser.

Meanwhile, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier’s Riesling from Mosel’s steeply sloped Altenberg vineyard achieved similarly high scores, proving the quality of this traditional outpost of great Riesling. At higher prices, Riesling showed its aptitude for the medium-dry style, with nothing less than a Silver medal for all the examples over £20 in this category.

The outstanding wine of the flight was the Schloss Johannisberg Silverlack Riesling Erstes Gewächs from the Rheingau, which showed the grape at its complex and refreshing best, even at a young stage in its life – this great wine was from the 2013 vintage, but will doubtless show an even broader array of flavours in 10 years’ time.

Interestingly, when the judges moved into the medium-sweet Rieslings, the scores dropped a little, perhaps a reflection of the wines that were entered, or possibly because the grape best suits being either off-dry or extremely sweet.

Nevertheless, both the Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier’s medium-dry Riesling from the Altenberg vineyard and the Thirty Bench Small Lot Riesling from Canada’s Andrew Peller achieved Golds in this flight, although they were both on the drier side of this category, containing fewer than 25g/l of residual sugar.

Moving into the final flight, sweet Riesling over 45g/l, the judges were so impressed by the entries that they awarded as many as three Masters – these were wines that were close to perfect. As one might expect, Germany was the source of these truly great examples, although Canada too achieved a top score for one of Andrew Peller’s Rieslings from the Niagara Peninsula.

THE MEDIUM-SWEET SPOT

As noted at the outset, although Riesling is one of those rare grapes that does everything well – aside from oak-aged wines – there are certain areas where it performs best.

Geographically, these have been highlighted above, while stylistically it seems that the best ratio between quality, appeal and price can be found among the medium-sweet Rieslings.

“I can’t believe how well balanced some of the medium-sweet styles are. The sugar lifts the fruit, but because of the acidity you don’t notice the sweetness,” said one judge. Another agreed, saying: “The sweet spot seems to be medium-dry Rieslings where there is a fantastic balance between the fruit, acidity and sweetness: the acidity is high enough to hide the sugar, but the sugar gives texture and lifts the fruit aromas, which in Riesling are so distinctive.”

Nevertheless, it was agreed Riesling suits the bone dry style too, while our final sweet wines of the day’s tasting wowed the judges, with botrytis boosting complexity, as well as concentrating the acids and sugars in the grapes. Concluding, the judges, many of whom had taken part in many Global Masters tastings, were impressed by the overall quality in the Riesling competition.

“There was a very high standard,” stated one judge. Which prompted another to ask: “So what’s wrong with Riesling?” They were alluding to the longstanding problem for this grape: commercially it lacks appeal, particularly in the UK, where Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio are the best-selling white varieties.

Maybe it’s because dry Rieslings are too austere and the thought of a sweeter wine is unappealing. Or perhaps it’s due to the unfashionable image of Germany, which is Riesling’s great home. Whatever the reason, all the judges that day were agreed on one point – Riesling makes the world’s greatest unoaked white wines.

THE JUDGES (left to right): Matthieu Longuère MS from Le Cordon Bleu; Antony Moss MW of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust; Patrick Schmitt MW, editor-in-chief of the drinks business; wine consultant Patricia Stefanowicz MW; wine consultant Jonathan Pedley MW; and Miles Corish MW of Milestone Wines

Please click through the following pages to see the full results.

Sparkling Riesling

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal
£15-£20
Kessler GmbH Jägergrün Riesling Brut Germany NV Silver

Dry Riesling (under 4g/l)

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
AdamsWein Riesling Kaliber 15t Germany 2014 Bronze
Pernod Ricard UK Jacob’s Creek Rieslingt Australia 2014 Bronze
Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa Riesling Australia 2014 Bronze
£10-£15
Larry Cherubino Wines Cherubino Laissez Faire Riesling Australia 2014 Silver
McGuigan Shortlist Riesling Australia 2015 Bronze
Weingut Karl May Karl May Riesling Trocken Germany 2014 Bronze
Jacob’s Creek Jacob’s Creek Reserve Barossa Riesling Australia 2013 Bronze
£15-£20
Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling Australia 2012 Gold
Winzergenossenschaft Weinbiet Philipp Bassler Riesling QbA Trocken Germany 2014 Gold
Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Riesling Australia 2013 Gold
Heirloom Vineyards Enchanted Garden of The Eden Valley Riesling Australia 2015 Silver
Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Riesling Australia 2015 Silver
Larry Cherubino Wines Cherubino Porongurup Riesling Australia 2015 Silver
Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Riesling Australia 2014 Silver
Trefethen Family Vineyards Dry Riesling USA 2013 Silver
Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Riesling Australia 2012 Silver
Tapanappa Wines Tapanappa Eden Valley Australia 2015 Bronze
£20-£30
Schatzel Schatzel RheinSchiefer Riesling Germany 2013 Master
Heirloom Vineyards Eden Valley Riesling Australia 2015 Gold
Weingut Spiess Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Trocken Germany 2013 Gold
£30-£50
Weingut Schnaitmann Fellbacher Lämmler Bergmandel Riesling Grosses Gewächs Germany 2013 Gold
Weingut Schnaitmann Uhlbacher Gotzenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs Germany 2013 Silver

Medium-dry Riesling (4-12g/l)

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Reh Kendermann GmbH Weinkellerei Kendermanns Special Edition Riesling Germany 2014 Gold
Reh Kendermann GmbH Weinkellerei Kendermanns Classic Riesling Germany 2014 Silver
Peter Mertes KG Sommerau Mosel Riesling QbA Dry Germany 2014 Silver
Ekjord AS Schmetterling Riesling Trocken Germany 2014 Bronze
Reh Kendermann GmbH Weinkellerei Riesling Vom Löss Germany 2014 Bronze
Weingut Martin Wassmer Markgraeflerland Riesling, Kabinett, Trocken Germany 2014 Bronze
£10-£15
Bird in Hand Bird in Hand Riesling Australia 2015 Silver
Ste Michelle Wine Estate Dry Riesling USA 2014 Silver
Das Ulrich Langguth Weingut Riesling Spätlese Trocken Alte Reben Germany 2014 Silver
Nederbu rg Wines Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve Riesling South Africa 2015 Silver
Schloss Vollrads KG Weingut Schloss Vollrads Riesling QBA Trocken Germany 2014 Silver
F W Langguth Erben GmbH & Co KG Mantiso Arida Qualtätswein Germany 2014 Bronze
Bird in Hand Honeysuckle Riesling Australia 2015 Bronze
Cono Sur Reserva Especial Riesling Chile 2014 Bronze

Medium-dry Riesling (4-12g/l)

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal
£15 – £20
De Bortoli Wines Yarra Valley Single Vineyard Section A7 Riesling Australia 2014 Master
Miguel Torres Waltraud Spain 2014 Gold
Tunkalilla Eola-Amity Hills Riesling USA 2012 Gold
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Dry Germany 2014 Gold
De Bortoli Wines La Boheme Act One Riesling Australia 2015 Silver
Rotem Wine Sphera, White Concepts, Riesling Israel 2013 Silver
Empire Estate Empire Estate Dry Riesling USA 2014 Silver
Pacific Rim Winemakers Pacific Rim Solstice Vineyard Riesling USA 2014 Silver
Hardys Hardys HRB Riesling Australia 2014 Silver
Little Beauty Limited Edition Dry Riesling New Zealand 2012 Silver
Efeste Evergreen Riesling USA 2013 Gold
£20-£30
Ste Michelle Wine Estate Eroica Riesling USA 2014 Gold
VDP Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung Hattenheimer Hassel Riesling QbA Trocken Germany 2013 Gold
Winzerkeller Sommerach eG Selsam + Schneider LUMP Echneider Germany 2013 Gold
VDP Weingut Georg Muller Stiftung Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling GG VDP GROSSE LAGE Germany 2013 Gold
JWG Johannisberger Weinvertrieb KG Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling GG Germany 2013 Silver
Schloss Vollrads KG Weingut Schloss Vollrads Alte Reben QBA Dry Trocken Germany 2014 Silver
Weingut Dr Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Dry Grosses Gewachs Alte Reben Germany 2013 Silver
£30-£50
Heirloom Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling Australia 2014 Gold
Over £50
Johannisberger Weinvertrieb KG Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Silberlack GG Germany 2013 Master

Medium-sweet Riesling (12-45g/l)

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal Sugar Level
Under £10
Framingham Wines Marlborough Classic Riesling New Zealand 2014 Silver 17
Clos Cor Vi Clos Cor Vi Riesling Spain 2014 Bronze 13.5
F W Langguth Erben GmbH & Co KG Erben Riesling Reserve Germany 2014 Bronze 15
Peter Mertes KG Bio Mit Gesicht Riesling QbA Feinherb Germany 2013 Bronze 21
Blue Nun Blue Nun Germany 2014 Bronze 27
Schmitt Söhne GmbH Schmitt Söhne Riesling QbA Germany 2014 Bronze 14.5
Schmitt Söhne GmbH Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Estate Kabinett Germany 2014 Bronze 35
Reh Kendermann GmbH Weinkellerei Kendermanns Riesling Spätlese Germany 2014 Bronze 45
£10-£15
Flat Rock Nadja’s Vineyards Riesling Canada 2014 Silver 24
Clark Estate Marlborough Block 8 Riesling New Zealand 2015 Silver 43
Seifried Estate Seifried Nelson Riesling New Zealand 2014 Silver 18
Ekjord AS Schmetterling Riesling Germany 2014 Bronze 35
Sula Vineyards Sula Riesling India 2015 Bronze 17
Andrew Peller Trius Showcase Riesling Ghost Creek Vineyard Canada 2014 Bronze 21.6
Brotherhood Winery Brotherhood Winemaker’s Private Selection Riesling USA 2014 Bronze 25
£15-£20
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Medium Dry Germany 2014 Gold 17.5
Andrew Peller Thirty Bench – Small Lot Riesling Wild Cask Canada 2013 Gold 23
Andrew Peller Thirty Bench – Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard Canada 2013 Silver 16.7
Wiengut St Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Germany 2014 Bronze 35.1

Sweet Riesling (over 45g/l)

Company Wine Country Vintage Medal Sugar Level
under £10
Reh Kendermann GmbH Weinkellerei Kendermanns Riesling Mosel Germany 2014 Bronze 47.2
£10-£15
JWC Johannisberger Weinvertreib KG Mittelhölle Riesling Spätlese Germany 2013 Silver 88.7
Das Ulrich Langguth Weingut Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Germany 2014 Bronze 45.8
£15-£20
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Kehrnagel Eiswein Germany 2012 Gold 189s
Wiengut St Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese Germany 2014 Silver 85.5
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese Germany 2014 Silver 79
Pacific Rim Winemakers Pacific Rim Selenium Vineyard Noble Wine USA 2012 Silver 170
Schloss Vollrads KG Weingut Schloss Vollrads Spatlese Fruity and Sweet Germany 2014 Bronze 76.9
£20-£30
VDP Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung Hattenheimer Schützenhaus Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany 2011 Master 247
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Ayler Kupp Riesling Auslese Germany 2014 Gold 76.9
Weingut St Urbans-Hof Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Germany 2014 Silver 50.9
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Germany 2014 Silver 63.1
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier GbR Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese Germany 2014 Silver 89.8
VDP Weingut Georg Muller Stiftung HattenheimerHassel Riesling Auslese VDP.GROSSE LAGE Germany 2013 Silver 90
£30-£50
Andrew Peller Andrew Peller Signature Series Riesling Icewine Canada 2013 Master 234
Winzerkeller Sommerach EG Sommeracher Katzenkopf, Trockenbeerenauslese Germany 2012 Master 239.7
JWG Johannisberger Weinvertrieb KG Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Grunlack Spätlese Germany 2013 Gold 97.6

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