Tesseron: biodynamics has brought us attention

Melanie Tesseron of Château Pontet-Canet has admitted that being recertified as biodynamic this year has brought a lot of welcome attention to the property.

Speaking at the UK launch of Tesseron Extreme Cognac at Sketch last week, Tesseron told the drinks business: “Biodynamics has definitely brought us an attention to our vineyard that we didn’t really have before.

“Being biodynamic has brought more complexity to our wines, and more quality, which is key.”

In 2005, the Bordeaux fifth growth was the first Left Bank château in the 1855 classification to be certified biodynamic, but a severe bout of mildew in 2007 forced owner Alfred Tesseron to use chemicals, resulting in a three-year loss of certification.

“Nature can be great and nature can be mean. At the end of the day we’re farmers at the mercy of the gods,” said Tesseron.

This January, the estate was re-awarded full Biodyvin biodynamic certification.

Speaking about the recent surge in popularity of natural wine, and the increasing momentum of the natural wine movement, Tesseron was upbeat.

“It’s a great thing that the natural wine movement is getting so much attention and that more and more winemakers are latching onto it, but let’s see if it’s not a bubble,” she said.

“It takes real determination to be biodynamic. You have to be very close to the vineyard and practically live in it in order for it to work. Our technical director Jean-Michel Comme never leaves our vineyard – he lives and breathes it.”

Last month, Pontet-Canet released its 2010 vintage at €100 ex-château (40% up on 2009).

Click here to watch the full interview with Melanie Tesseron