Joly in favour of egg-shaped fermenters

Loire-based natural wine pioneer Nicolas Joly has spoken out in support of egg-shaped fermenters, believing they positively affect the taste of wine.

Speaking at the Natural Wine Fair on Monday (16 May) in London’s Borough Market, Joly, of Château de la Roche aux Moines in Savennières, told the drinks business: "Shape is too often neglected in winemaking. It is not by chance that in many cases nature bestows life in the form of an egg.

“Each shape relates to different forces of nature. A barrel is an egg whose two ends have been sliced off. The egg shape is a call to peripheral forces and we deprive wine of them by putting it in a tank.

“We are beginning to understand how much shape affects taste. Look at sacred art – shapes were understood according to the golden ratio. We are going back to a deep understanding that was lost in the past century. Shapes will return to being a science.”

Joly presented a two hour seminar at the fair, entitled: “Everything you ever needed to know about biodynamics”. Explaining why minimum intervention leads to better wines, Joly said: “To achieve zero technology in the winery you have to be an artist as a farmer.

“If your farming practices are stupid, then weed killers and chemical fertilisers will distort the part being played by the vine, meaning you’ll need to do a lot of work in the cellar to rebuild a flattering taste.”

Joly also spoke about the importance of the wine press in educating consumers about natural wine: “Primarily it’s a matter of teaching and understanding the forces of nature. This will happen slowly.

“There’s no point trying to convince sceptics of the merits of natural wine – they will learn through the press if the press plays its part.”

To watch the full video interview with Nicolas Joly, click here

To join the debate on concrete egg vats, click here

Lucy Shaw 18.05.2011