Right Bank Bordeaux far from classic

The 2010 Bordeaux are being touted by some as more classic than 2009. Are they? On the Right Bank, often not really.

Pomerol and St Emilion offer many wines that are full of opulence, density, extraction and alcohol – most seem to be between 14% and 15%, and a few are more. They have aroma and some freshness, but a kirsch note, occasionally even reminiscent of amarone, can be found on many.

There’s a vast difference between these wines and those of the producers who, year after year, go for restraint. The JP Moueix wines, and the Ausone stable, for example, are outstanding for their balance and finesse.

On the Left Bank the picture is different: the Cabernet Sauvignon was less sugar-laden than the Merlot and most are under 14%. They still have massive tannins – "even the juice was tannic this year", says Philippe Dhalluin of Mouton – but with better balance and more freshness.

They’ll be long-lived, too, and as they age are likely to throw the opulence and silkiness of the ’09s into sharp relief.

Margaret Rand, 21.04.2011