Virginia Wine Board: ‘We have the confidence to return to London’
10 years since Virginia Wine last exhibited at London Wine Fair, a coalition of producers is returning next week. One board member explains how better wines and a stronger sense of place will offer buyers ‘genuine discovery’.
Ranking US states by wine production, it will surprise no-one that California takes the top spot.
Move down the list, however, and you swap prominence for excitement. With the sixth most wineries, Virginia state may not be a behemoth, but it is a serious player. From high profile acquisitions – whether start-ups or Bordeaux estates – to a growing reputation for sparkling wines, Virginia is generating a buzz beyond its boutique production.
As further evidence of this, Virginia Wine is returning to London Wine Fair next week, after an absence of 10 years. Nine wineries will make the trip, collaborating on a packed agenda for the promoting the state.
The headline event takes place on Tuesday, with Virginia-based educator and Virginia Wine Coalition Coordinator Matthew Brown, alongside West London Wine School’s Jimmy Smith, presenting a masterclass. The session – Cabernet Franc and Beyond: From Terroir to Identity in Virginia Wine – will give a whistlestop tour of the region and feature eight wines.
However, there are also more casual tastings taking place. Each day, Brown will explore a different winery in a pop-up tasting at Virginia Wine’s base (stand D54) at 12:30pm. On the agenda are Barboursville Vineyards on Monday, Michael Shaps Wineworks on Tuesday and Early Mountain Vineyards on Wednesday.
On the Tuesday, there will be a further tasting led by wine writer and Virginia Governor’s Cup competition director Frank Morgan. From 10am–12pm, he will guide visitors through wines from the Virginia Governor’s Cup winning case.
It is an impressive move, with no sign of timidity in the programme. So what has prompted the bold return, and what do Virginia’s winemakers think they can offer the UK trade?
Returning with confidence
There have been many reasons for cutting back on international operations in the last 10 years: Covid-19, tariffs and an atmosphere of uncertainty. Yet the return is not just a question of external factors. It also shows how Virginia Wine has developed.
“The Virginia wine industry has made tremendous strides over the past decade,” explains Aubrey Rose, co-owner of Rosemont of Virginia and member of the Virginia Wine Board. “Greater consistency, stronger quality, and a more defined sense of place have given us the confidence to return to London and share our story internationally.”
That means a willingness to articulate Virginia’s difference. Its production is diverse and, if anyone is predominantly familiar with West Coast winegrowers, unusual.
No grape variety makes up more than 20% of plantings, and within the top five there are relative obscurities such as Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Viognier.
That explains the decision to focus on Cabernet Franc for the London Wine Fair masterclass. Although it will feature other varieties, Virginian producers are unafraid of putting their trademark grape front and centre.
“As Virginia’s most widely planted grape, Cabernet Franc has emerged as one of the region’s defining varietals,” says Rose. “Thriving in Virginia’s diverse climate and terroir, it offers a distinctive expression of both place and winemaking philosophy.
“While this tasting also features a select few additional varietals that excel throughout the Commonwealth, our focus remains on the grape that most authentically represents Virginia’s winemaking identity and story.”
A ‘natural fit’ for the inquisitive
With London Wine Fair catering predominantly to the trade, however, uniqueness is not the only thing to consider. Commerciality is a key concern.
According to Rose, their most important trait is that they offer something hard to come by in more established regions: “genuine discovery”.
Most wine drinkers will be broadly familiar with the famous wines of Europe and likewise know the reputation of California. Sitting approximately halfway between the two, Virginian wineries can play off their reputations to tell a new story.
“Our wines occupy an interesting stylistic space,” says Rose, “sitting more restrained and food-friendly than California, with European-leaning acidity and structure, but with a warmth and approachability that’s distinctly their own.”
More and more, in fact, Virginia Wine is seeking to transcend those categorisations. They might be an introduction, but they are only the beginning.
As Rose explains: “Those archetypes are still useful reference points, but modern wine drinkers are increasingly looking beyond them. Virginia’s position between the two is one of our greatest strengths, as we’re not trying to replicate either.”
This means that, in its delegation to London Wine Fair, Virginia Wine is seeking out buyers and sommeliers for independents and venues with serious-minded wine lists. In short, it will suit places where the hand-sell reigns supreme.
“Virginia wines are a natural fit for independent retailers and on-trade venues that truly promote discovery,” comments Rose. “We’d expect them to resonate strongly on restaurant wine lists, where sommeliers can champion them by the glass, and with specialist merchants whose customers are eager to explore beyond familiar regions and styles.”
In fact, Virginian wineries look set to succeed based not only on the eagerness of customers, but also the trade’s enthusiasm for discovery.
“For sommeliers and retailers who love introducing customers to something unexpected, Virginia is a natural fit,” Rose concludes.
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