Champagne’s future lies in innovation, says De Saint-Gall
From climate adaptation to changing consumer habits, cellar master of Champagne De Saint-Gall Cédric Jacopin outlines the pressures shaping Champagne today.
Champagne innovation is not at odds with tradition, according to Champagne De Saint-Gall cellar master Cédric Jacopin, who believes the category’s future will depend on adapting to climate change while maintaining its premium image.
Speaking to db after a recent press tasting in London, Jacopin said the cooperative structure behind Champagne De Saint-Gall gives the producer both the scale of a major house and a strong connection to vineyard culture.
“De Saint Gall, as a collective of winegrowers, offers all the advantages of a major brand (in terms of investment capacity, distribution of significant volumes, and communication focused on Grand and Premier Cru wines), but also embodies the values of the vineyard with over 2,300 associated winegrowers,” he said.
“These values of sharing and proximity resonate at a time when consumers are seeking authenticity, transparency, and the value of ‘terroir’.”
‘Innovation is part of the traditions of Champagne’
Jacopin argued that Champagne has historically evolved through periods of change and innovation, particularly in response to external pressures.
“Champagne has always been a land of innovation,” he said. “Since the end of the 19th century with the phylloxera crisis, the vineyard has been constantly evolving.”
He pointed to major shifts in viticulture and winemaking practices over time, from densely planted vineyards to the introduction of rootstocks and trellising, followed by advances in pressing and winemaking techniques.
According to Jacopin, the next stage of development for Champagne will centre on climate adaptation and reducing chemical inputs in the vineyard.
“The next step will be adapting to climate change and the necessary reduction in the use of pesticides and herbicides,” he said. “This will involve the development of plant material (rootstocks, new grape varieties through hybridization).”
“I would say that innovation is part of the ‘traditions of Champagne’.”
Jacopin also addressed the current economic pressures facing the category, arguing that Champagne is experiencing a market correction rather than a loss of consumer appeal.
“We are indeed going through a somewhat turbulent period, but this is mainly a consequence of the post-Covid euphoria,” he said.
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“We mistakenly thought that Champagne was an exception in the global wine market. We are therefore experiencing a correction, but in reality, there is no decline in popularity for the product, unlike wines in general.”
He maintained that consumers are still adjusting to Champagne’s premium positioning within the sparkling wine sector.
“The market simply needs to readjust and consumers need to get used to Champagne’s new positioning: that is to say, the top of the sparkling wines!”
Sustainability ‘part of daily life’
Jacopin also rejected the suggestion that Champagne is engaging in “greenwashing”, describing sustainability as an essential and long-term shift within the region.
“We cannot speak of greenwashing in the Champagne region,” he said. “The environmental transition is part of the daily lives of Champagne producers.”
“It is not only a consumer demand but also an obligation to address climate change.”
He added that Champagne producers began implementing sustainable viticulture practices more than a decade ago, and argued that environmental pressures are now driving technical innovation across the category.
“We initiated sustainable viticulture practices in Champagne more than 10 years ago,” he said. “But this obligation to transition our practices is the driving force behind innovation. This innovation is underway to produce better and cleaner wine.”
Despite rising prices across the category, Jacopin believes Champagne continues to occupy a unique position as both a celebratory drink and an accessible luxury product.
“It’s the price increase that might lead one to believe Champagne is no longer the only sparkling wine for celebrations,” he said.
“In reality, the selection is still very vast, and I think Champagne can be present at every moment of life: celebrations, of course, but also in restaurants with wonderful food and wine pairings, and even in mixology.”
“Champagne still has this image of a celebratory wine coupled with an image of accessible luxury.”
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