Champagne foil remains ‘optional’ after two-year legal battle
The Comité Champagne has withdrawn its opposition to an EU ruling that foil on bottles should be made optional. The turnaround follows research that suggests the absence of foil would not affect sales or damage Champagne’s image.
Foils have been a hot topic in the drinks trade for several years with everyone from English Sparkling producers to Champagne makers debating whether bottle neck foils should be axed, or whether they form a vital part of a bottle.
The economic arguments are nuanced, with English wineries claiming that ditching foils would save them between 10p and 50p in production costs for every bottle of sparkling wine made. However, others, especially in Champagne, worry that without the luxury touch that foils bring to bottles could cause sales to slide.
An environmental stance has also been taken by some in Champagne who argue that the foils, many of which contain plastic, account for about 0.6% of the greenhouse gas emissions caused by Champagne production. Getting rid of them, therefore, could have benefits for the planet and for future generations.
“Hygienic shield”
The complex matter doesn’t end there. Others in the trade hold fast to the view that foils play a crucial role in preventing bacteria from getting into bottles. A study carried out by the by European reference centre CSI in collaboration with closures group Crealis showed that foils provide a protective barrier against bacterial contamination and mould. Essentially, claimed the study, capsules and foils act as “an effective hygienic shield”, with “intense growth” and “widespread colonies” of bacteria recorded on test bottles which did not have a capsule or foil.
Lastly, foils can make it harder to tamper with bottles, reducing the frequency of counterfeit drinks. Cherie Spriggs, head winemaker at English Sparkling producer Nyetimber told the drinks business: “They add a layer of protection to the cork, it reduces the likelihood of damage and makes tampering harder. So foil sleeves are not without purpose and we will continue to use them.”
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EU ruling
On 28 August, 2023, the EU ruled that Champagne foils would became optional, with the amendment coming into force in December that year. Shortly after the change, however, the Comité Interprofessionnel des Vins de Champagne (CIVC) and the Syndicat Général des Vignerons de Champagne (SGV) joined forces to push back against the changes and request revisions to make foils mandatory again within official Champagne appellation guidelines. The two groups argued that foils are integral to the ‘brand identity’ of Champagne.
Contrastingly, 30 or so winemakers joined a collective called Ça décoiffe, which spoke out in favour of giving producers the choice. By late October, their call for flexibility had gained the support of larger organisations, including the Association des Champagnes Biologiques, the Vignerons Indépendants de Champagne, and the Confédération Paysanne, who all advocated for flexibility in a joint statement.
This week saw yet another twist in the tail.
The CIVC has dropped its plight to have foils reinstated as mandatory for all Champagne producers, based on research that shows the absence of foil (or coiffe) will not impact the value of the region’s business.
“The absence of a coiffe does not change consumers’ preference for Champagne,” the Comité said.
Reporting on the 180 degree turn, French newspaper Le Parisien commented: “This is indisputably a breach of an old tradition, perhaps for a good cause.”
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