Unfiltered: Adam Pledger

The hirsute managing director and wine director of Cardiff’s Park House Restaurant & Wine Bar shares his love for Chardonnay, large formats and detestation of tripe with Douglas Blyde.

What is your vintage? 

I was born in 1978, a legendary year for Piemonte and arguably the last of the great vintages when wine was made traditionally before the innovations of the 1980s. I bought several Barolo Riservas from a private cellar which I am greatly looking forward to sampling – as well as a number of Brunellos. This year’s birthday drinks should hopefully be epic! I would also love to find, to drink, a bottle of 1978 La Tâche, which I hear on good authority is utterly magnificent.

Who inspires you from the world of gastronomy? 

I grew up in north Devon and did lots of scuba diving off the Cornish coast which involved excursions into Padstow and indeed, Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant for exceptional seafood from a local legend. More recently, I would say Roger Jones from The Harrow at Little Bedwyn; he has boundless energy, passion and enthusiasm for all things food and drink.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

I started life as a marine biologist then opened a wine merchant to help fund the next stage, which was 22 years ago.

Describe your list? 

Diverse, extensive and built with passion over fifteen years. It is greatly influenced by vineyard visits, producer wine dinners and food matching. Some of my favourite collections include Claire and Eden Valley Rieslings such as Wigan and Florita, and the wines of Felton Road, Kistler, Henschke, and Charles Melton.

What is the most idiosyncratic and personal listing? 

The wines of Charlie Melton from the Barossa. I was lucky enough to be taken to Australia on a wine trip with Liberty nearly 20 years ago. I had been in the wine industry for less than a year and it was an incredible experience. I totally fell in love with Australian wine and the lunch, dinner and tasting with Charlie Melton was a highlight, cementing my love for the Barossa and his wines in particular.

What is your motto? 

Everything is better after a glass of Chardonnay. Australian Chardonnay is a passion of mine, being diverse and brilliant with food. More recently, I have fallen for examples from Sonoma and South Africa.

What areas are you likely to expand this year? 

South Africa, California and the Rhône.

How does the setting of Park House enhance a guest’s appreciation of wine? 

The building is a Grade I listed mansion house with the main restaurant being the dominant room of the building. It’s a decadent and impressive space which invites pleasure. Everything we do has a focus on wine, so the guests are already in the mood.

Did the wine fridge in the dining room just magically happen to perfectly fit the alcove?    

I wish! It was included in a refurbishment completed in 2018. I had always wanted a wine display fridge in the main dining room, so we made it fit.

What is a sublime match between wine and a dish by head chef, Gethin Rees? 

Orkney scallop with foie gras and fresh truffles matched with aged Clare Valley Riesling, being Wigan 2013, Peter Lehmann. The acidity of the Riesling balanced the richness of the dish then the aged character of the wine helped bring the nuances of the dish into play. A dance on the palate.

Tell us about the wine shop at Park House? 

I always wanted to put a wine merchant in our cellars but never had the time until Covid shut down the hospitality industry. Over the years we sold wines to our customers in an informal manner, so this was the logical step. First, we built an e-commerce platform so we could reach our customers whilst we were all locked up and then started building the shop in late 2021 as a means not only to survive but to spread our passion for wine. Today, we offer over 2,000 wines both online (wine-republic.co.uk) and in the retail shop/wine bar which features over 50 wines by the glass matched with cheese and charcuterie.

Are magnums the best format in your opinion? 

It’s no secret that we love larger formats at Park House. The theatre of serving a magnum or jeroboam in the restaurant cannot be underestimated, especially in the Instagram world we now inhabit. Also, larger bottles tend to keep wine fresher because the wine ages more slowly which, in turn, allows us to list a wider variety of old vintages.

What ingredient never passes your lips? 

Tripe!

From where do you get your dress sense? 

Not sure anyone has ever said I have one before!

What is your favourite TV series? 

Schitt’s Creek.

What music is played in the restaurant? 

It depends on the season and the whims of the restaurant manager, though food and wine induced conversation is for me the best “music” s restaurant can have.

Where would your fantasy vineyard be? 

Sonoma Coast next to a Kistler vineyard.

What do you look for in team members? 

A passion for food and wine.

Park House Restaurant & Wine Bar – 20 Park Place, Cardiff, CF10 3DQ; 029 2022 4343; enquiries@parkhouserestaurant.co.uk; parkhouserestaurant.co.uk